bradreiman Posted May 15, 2007 Share #1 Posted May 15, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Has anyone tried various codes on the cv21/f4 color skopar? Im going to self code it for a shoot tomorrow and don't have time to experiment. Any help would be greatly appreciated....b Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 15, 2007 Posted May 15, 2007 Hi bradreiman, Take a look here best code for cv21/f4 color skopar. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
scho Posted May 15, 2007 Share #2 Posted May 15, 2007 Has anyone tried various codes on the cv21/f4 color skopar? Im going to self code it for a shoot tomorrow and don't have time to experiment. Any help would be greatly appreciated....b I used the WATE code simply because I was sharing a coded adapter with a CV 15 Heliar. Just select 21 from the pop-up menu. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eikonphoto Posted May 15, 2007 Share #3 Posted May 15, 2007 I also need to self code the cv21, but have until today avoided everything coding related. Is there a sticky with the codes? Is there a 'self coding for dummies' thread that I have missed? There are many threads that mention self coding, but most assume a level of knowledge already. Thanks as always. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubice Posted May 15, 2007 Share #4 Posted May 15, 2007 Is there a sticky with the codes? Is there a 'self coding for dummies' thread that I have missed? Hi Karen, Here is a start, courtesy of a member of this forum: Leica M8 Lens Codes Best, Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
misha Posted May 15, 2007 Share #5 Posted May 15, 2007 btw, is this lens RF coupled? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eikonphoto Posted May 15, 2007 Share #6 Posted May 15, 2007 Hi Karen, Here is a start, courtesy of a member of this forum: Leica M8 Lens Codes Best, Jan Thanks for the info. I have given it a try and am not getting anything showing. I did remember to turn on lens detection - let's get the obvious out of the way first. I also tried to do my 35 summicron, just to see if it's a CV issue, but I can't get the 35 cron to show up either. I'm obviously doing something wrong that's probably pretty basic, but any help would be great. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwolf Posted May 15, 2007 Share #7 Posted May 15, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Am I understanding this right? After reading this thread, I just tried coding my 21 Skopar P. Lens detection now says there's a 21 attached. I used the 21 Elmarit code indicated on the list above. At first it brought up the 28, but I widened the stripe a bit and it's OK now. I Sharpied a solid mass for the 2nd and 3rd bit positions. Is this really all there is to self-coding? John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean_reid Posted May 15, 2007 Share #8 Posted May 15, 2007 I recommend the 21/2.8 Elm Asph code for the CV 21/4. My other recommendations are on Carsten's list. Cheers, Sean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted May 15, 2007 Share #9 Posted May 15, 2007 Karen, if you have one lens which is coded, then the easiest way is the following: with a pen which you can wipe off metal, mark the centres of the coded areas on the edge of the lens mount of the coded lens, mount the coded lens on the camera, transfer the marks on the coded lens to the side of the mount of the camera, remove the coded lens, attach the to-be-coded lens, transfer the marks from the camera mount's side to the lens mount's side, remove the to-be-coded lens, make little dots next to the marks but on the mount as indicated in the table in my sig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eikonphoto Posted May 15, 2007 Share #10 Posted May 15, 2007 Karen, if you have one lens which is coded, then the easiest way is the following: with a pen which you can wipe off metal, mark the centres of the coded areas on the edge of the lens mount of the coded lens, mount the coded lens on the camera, transfer the marks on the coded lens to the side of the mount of the camera, remove the coded lens, attach the to-be-coded lens, transfer the marks from the camera mount's side to the lens mount's side, remove the to-be-coded lens, make little dots next to the marks but on the mount as indicated in the table in my sig. Hi Carsten I don't have any coded lenses at this time. I used the nifty paper template that was posted by Mike, and it looks like I have the lines in the correct place. I can't think of what else to try. I have nice neat sharpie lines and followed the instructions per Mike Norton really helpful document, but I guess I am missing something. The info section does not show any lens as being attached. I am a mystified. Any suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted May 16, 2007 Share #11 Posted May 16, 2007 I recommend the 21/2.8 Elm Asph code for the CV 21/4. My other recommendations are on Carsten's list. Sean, Did you test the 21/4 against the wate code as well and decided the elmarit correction was better? - C Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott kirkpatrick Posted May 16, 2007 Share #12 Posted May 16, 2007 Hi CarstenI don't have any coded lenses at this time. I used the nifty paper template that was posted by Mike, and it looks like I have the lines in the correct place. I can't think of what else to try. I have nice neat sharpie lines and followed the instructions per Mike Norton really helpful document, but I guess I am missing something. The info section does not show any lens as being attached. I am a mystified. Any suggestions? I've gotten sharpie coding to work following almost Carsten's methods, but going back to Mike Prevette's original post. I stuck a little strip of band-aid to the front of the camera right next to the lens mount outside the 6 IR LEDs (the reddish plastic-covered strip). I marked on this band-aid where each led appeared to be centered, then installed the lens I wanted to code, and marked the outside of the lens mount with the LED centers, then I demounted the lens and made the black stripes that were needed on the bottom of the mount. They have to be widened sometimes until they work. Keep widening them until the camera sees something, then check to be sure that you didn't get two stripes where you only meant one. scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eikonphoto Posted May 16, 2007 Share #13 Posted May 16, 2007 I've gotten sharpie coding to work following almost Carsten's methods, but going back to Mike Prevette's original post. I stuck a little strip of band-aid to the front of the camera right next to the lens mount outside the 6 IR LEDs (the reddish plastic-covered strip). I marked on this band-aid where each led appeared to be centered, then installed the lens I wanted to code, and marked the outside of the lens mount with the LED centers, then I demounted the lens and made the black stripes that were needed on the bottom of the mount. They have to be widened sometimes until they work. Keep widening them until the camera sees something, then check to be sure that you didn't get two stripes where you only meant one. scott Hi Scott That's the same method that I tried. I've also tried to widen the stripes to no avail. I feel it must be something obvious, but darned if I can think what i might be. At this point I would be happy if any lens showed up, at least I would know I was in the park. I'm not normally mechanically challenged, but perhaps I am Ha! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwolf Posted May 16, 2007 Share #14 Posted May 16, 2007 Karen, maybe post a picture of what you've done. I know it's a long shot, but perhaps something will be apparent to someone else. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlm Posted May 16, 2007 Share #15 Posted May 16, 2007 if your adapter has a step in the flange surface (many of the Leica LTM adapters do) you may be leaking light onto the detectors. try a piece of tape around the joint to keep light out and see if that is the problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eikonphoto Posted May 16, 2007 Share #16 Posted May 16, 2007 if your adapter has a step in the flange surface (many of the Leica LTM adapters do) you may be leaking light onto the detectors. try a piece of tape around the joint to keep light out and see if that is the problem. I have the voigtlander adaptor and it's the correct one. As I wanted to know if it was an adaptor and/or voigtlander issue, I have also tried my 35mm summicron, with absolutely no luck either. I'm goin to start from scratch one more time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted May 16, 2007 Share #17 Posted May 16, 2007 I can't get it to work either; it could be because I'm too darned cautious. I'm using a CD / DVD marker to try to get it work first; it's easy to rub off the mistakes. But I can't seem to get any of my uncoded lenses to work. My 28 Elmarit coded lens works fine. Maybe markers like that are not "black" enough? Should I be trying model paint? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted May 16, 2007 Share #18 Posted May 16, 2007 Enamel paint does work, at least it did when I filled inn the milled recesses in one of JM's adapters. I haven't tried it directly on a lens mount yet. What I did try was to change some of the white marks on the adapter to black using a Sharpie, it doesn't work. The Sharpie's ink isn't black enough to cover white paint as far as IR is concerned - even if it looks black. - C Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwolf Posted May 16, 2007 Share #19 Posted May 16, 2007 My CV 21 P coding was fine until I installed firmware 1.102. Then it wasn't recognized. I was able to recode it successfully. It took a while playing with both sides of the stripe--adding and removing ink. I finally realized the angle was wrong--too wide toward the back. I scraped some off with a paper towel over an exacto blade and it's OK now. Hopefully it will last awhile. Sharpie ink seems to wear off easily. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted May 16, 2007 Share #20 Posted May 16, 2007 Karen, is the metal of the lens mount clean and shiny? Older mounts may show black instead of white, unless cleaned. Also, is there a screwhole in the way? I had to fill one hole on my 75 Lux with whiteout to be able to code it. It is also crucial to use a pen with non-reflective ink. Is yours a Sharpie or an Edding 8400? If not, try one of those two. Check and re-check the locations of your marks. A slight error can make a big difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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