Guest Posted February 15, 2015 Share #21 Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) Two approaches for stuck threads:- place the jointed parts between two pieces of wood. Give a sharp, but not violent, tap with a hammer along the center axis of the hood. You are just trying to get the metal to "ring" and achieve some axial movement before getting rotating movement. If still difficult to turn after several attempts, - use two rubber strap pipe wrenches to get a really good grip and apply the necessary force. Sears Craftsman sells two different sizes of these wrenches. You'll need two sets. I don't like using penetrating oil on camera equipment; I only use it if the threads are galled or damaged, say from a set screw. These two approaches have worked very well for me. Put them in the fridge in a closed plastic box or bag. Then put them on a midly warm cooking surface with the exterior part (= the nut) down and the interior part (= the screw) up. Be quick to unlock the stuck threads. _________ Posted my suggestion.. of the ultra-compact lens-shade deliberately in the Collectors & Historica section, since it is documented (nah, not as an "invention" - reading prevents inventing - it was the Pentax guys ) an on the other hand this suggestion won't find much feed-back from people being invested with four (to-five) figures ammounts in lens-hoods for the 50plus lenses they own. I use the clasical hood PLUS what I have suggested. Lately here a disk as described on many lenses replaces the neutral- or UV-filter, because these filters give additional reflexions and flare. Oops... UV-filters - another source of income for the photo-stores. Edited February 15, 2015 by tri Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 15, 2015 Posted February 15, 2015 Hi Guest, Take a look here 12585 vs 12585H. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jc_braconi Posted February 15, 2015 Share #22 Posted February 15, 2015 Andy some picts of yours can help Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted February 15, 2015 Share #23 Posted February 15, 2015 If still difficult to turn after several attempts, use two rubber strap pipe wrenches to get a really good grip and apply the necessary force. If you have the opportunity, look at the lens shades being discussed. The vented style is highly fragile. Every single one I have owned has been dented somehow without my being aware. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_livsey Posted February 15, 2015 Share #24 Posted February 15, 2015 If you have the opportunity, look at the lens shades being discussed. The vented style is highly fragile. Every single one I have owned has been dented somehow without my being aware. Mine was dented and I was aware Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
semi-ambivalent Posted February 17, 2015 Share #25 Posted February 17, 2015 12504 and 12585s both unscrew Andy, I have a 12585H here in front of me. I can see a 'break' where it might separate if unscrewed but darn if I can budge it. Hard to get a proper grip but I think if I twisted any harder I'd warp the hood part. Wedged? Glued? Who knows. s-a oops, shoulda read the entire thread. But I don't think I'll force this, stove or no stove. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share #26 Posted February 17, 2015 Don't break it just to see. I will post some pics of mine later 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iphoenix Posted February 17, 2015 Share #27 Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) In a recent purchase there was a complete 12585 hood, plus the rear (mounting) section of a 12585 hood. The front of the rear section has a screw thread of around 1.5mm in depth. I have tried to unscrew the 2 parts of my complete hood, but without forcing, was unable to do so. I can confirm that the 12585 hood is made in 2 "screwed together" sections. I won't offer any suggestions as to why. Andy, can you confirm if this is what you are referring to? Regards, David PS: This thread depth would not allow for a filter's thickness; so aside from "production reasons", my question is why? Edited February 17, 2015 by iphoenix Detail and question Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted February 17, 2015 Share #28 Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) In a recent purchase there was a complete 12585 hood, plus the rear (mounting) section of a 12585 hood. The front of the rear section has a screw thread of around 1.5mm in depth. I have tried to unscrew the 2 parts of my complete hood, but without forcing, was unable to do so. I can confirm that the 12585 hood is made in 2 "screwed together" sections. I won't offer any suggestions as to why. Andy, can you confirm if this is what you are referring to? Regards, David PS: This thread depth would not allow for a filter's thickness; so aside from "production reasons", my question is why?[/quote] A mechanical engineer with a certain experience in manufacturing methodologies could give the answer, which probably lies in the need to insert the spring/loaded inserts in a part that is simply round, while the hood part is geometrically more complex and needs a non trivial stamping die & process.... Besides this, could be also that the base with inserts could had been designed to be a standard part on which they could mount 2 or 3 different hoods for different focals (say.. 35 50 90... I don't know if they really made some hoods with this common component) ; being just a manufacturing choice, no surprise that it is not easy to unscrew... an action not planned to be customer-performed, while the hoods made for series filter insertion are clearly and easily unscrewable. Edited February 17, 2015 by luigi bertolotti 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted February 17, 2015 Share #29 Posted February 17, 2015 I'm not at home but I am pretty sure the back section which clips to the lens is the same as the 12575 for 90 &135, so savings on manufacture. I also have an IROOA and the parallel one whose code escapes me and the lens mount is common to all I think. Not a collection, all are on lenses in use except for one 12585 spare! Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedaes Posted February 17, 2015 Share #30 Posted February 17, 2015 Without picture not sure what unscrews from what but I am sure it is not intended to. Mine all look like a single piece with the spring lugs part of a seperate ring that is pressed in. Be interesting to see, as there does not appear to be either depth or thickness for any thread - if we are talking about the same 12585 hood and design/manufacture didn't change over the years. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted February 17, 2015 Share #31 Posted February 17, 2015 Well the hood part does unscrew from the matt chrome mount part, I have even swopped them round, replacing a bent hood with a good hood off one with loose mounting springs. Wether it was intended to is the matter in question, I rather think that these designs pre-date any real knowledge of series filters in Europe. Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share #32 Posted February 17, 2015 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Definitely no Series 7 capability. 2 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Definitely no Series 7 capability. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/241082-12585-vs-12585h/?do=findComment&comment=2766388'>More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted February 17, 2015 Share #33 Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) Just a little contribution... I have just verified that my 12521G (metal hood for Summilux 50) can also be unscrewed... an it too has a base ring with spring and inserts. The same I verified also on my 12575 (90s and 135s) and also on my ITDOO and IROOA ; the OLLUX (old Summilux 35), by converse, seems absolutely unscrewable, even if it is clearly made of two parts... but being a very precious hood I'm reluctant to try hard... (btw , the OLLUX is the only, within this group, with a not symmetrical shape, so that is reasonable that its front is strictly glued/solded/forced to the base) Thanks to Andy for having made me curios on this constructive detail Edited February 17, 2015 by luigi bertolotti Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
paorin Posted February 18, 2015 Share #34 Posted February 18, 2015 I think they unscrew purely for manufacturing reasons, because they can be mounted on a lens with the filter screwed in front of the lens, so there's no need to put the filter between the two parts of the hood. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpattison Posted February 22, 2015 Share #35 Posted February 22, 2015 (edited) James L Lager's Leica Illustrated Guide III shows on page 18 a 12585 without the 1:2/35 engraving, so that must have been why the H was added, to differentiate the f2 35 update. I guess after a while they just reverted to 12585 to simplify the catalogue. Looks like you were right about the thickness being a difference, Andy... 12585 Vs 12585H - Photo.net Leica and Rangefinders Forum ( see last entry of this very similar thread!) Cheers, John Edited February 22, 2015 by jpattison added info 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted February 23, 2015 Share #36 Posted February 23, 2015 James L Lager's Leica Illustrated Guide III shows on page 18 a 12585 without the 1:2/35 engraving, so that must have been why the H was added, to differentiate the f2 35 update.I guess after a while they just reverted to 12585 to simplify the catalogue. .... Cheers, John I think that the "H" question is not related specifically to some modification of the item : when Leitz abandoned the old fashioned 5 letters codes, the new codes were "designed" as made by five digits and a trailing letter (all the catalogs around 1960 do report those codes) , then some years after they abandoned the letter and kept just the five digits, for all their photo equipment ; note , if you look at listings, there are not codes made by the same 5 digits and a different letter... my idea is that it was something related to their first Data Processing efforts... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwesi Posted January 13, 2021 Share #37 Posted January 13, 2021 On 2/17/2015 at 3:59 PM, andybarton said: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Definitely no Series 7 capability. Although most of the 12585(H) hoods are all black like Andy's above, mine has a copper colored hood part. Does anyone know any of the back story as to why there was a batch like this made? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.noctilux Posted January 14, 2021 Share #38 Posted January 14, 2021 11 hours ago, Kwesi said: Although most of the 12585(H) hoods are all black like Andy's above, mine has a copper colored hood part. Does anyone know any of the back story as to why there was a batch like this made? Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! I have those oddities too. Just choice of paint ? Or reflections, looking at different angles. Have a look at inside of the hood paint, that is "mat" black, no . In my view this black inside is more important than black (or not) outside, to control flare. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 14, 2021 Share #39 Posted January 14, 2021 (edited) me too think it's simply a question of material used for paint ; mine also, under strong direct light, shows a vague "coppery hue" even if can surely be described as black (and so appears in soft diffused illumination) . Also, varnishes for metals , depending on their chemical formulation, can change subtly their look when exposed to sun for long time... Edited January 14, 2021 by luigi bertolotti 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwesi Posted January 14, 2021 Share #40 Posted January 14, 2021 Thanks Arnaud and Luigi. It is a very nice look. I think it's the only hood with that color. I wonder if it was an experiment by Leica or perhaps the regular varnish was in short supply. I guess we will never know. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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