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Accidental rear button push . . .


Guest Walt

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Guest guy_mancuso

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That's a good. Protect+Set (3 secs).

 

Luigi case doesn't help--my buttons get pressed more because handling the case presses them all at once.

 

Not sure about this one, If your going to all this trouble turn it off than on. Let's not forget the image that got away when playing with buttons

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Guest Walt

I think Scott is right--all that needs to be protected is the set button, with a collar or recess or something like that. The rest of the spontaneous button pushing is just harmless monkey play, although seeing the set screen on always brings up doubt about whether the ISO or EV comp has been changed. As for turning the camera off and then on all the time, this is much more cumbersome than simply lightly touching the shutter release, requires a much more careful movement (to not overshoot S), requires two movements (switch and then shutter release) and is probably going to wear this switch, which doesn't seem that robust.

 

Many cameras are designed with the equivalent of the set switch recessed and therefore requiring a deliberate push. This might be accomplished by Leica by simply using a flatter button in the set position, one at or slightly below the surface of the surrounding plate when it activates. Right now it activates when it is quite high relative to the surrounding surface.

 

Incidentally, in shooting one and a half 2 gig cards yesterday, I found this morning that the shots on one card were all protected. So that is my third instance of this behavior. For me, these changes can happen unnoticed because I automatically touch the shutter release as I grab the camera to bring it to my eye and never see that buttons have been pushed.

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Now that I understand that REAL Pros all carry their cameras with lens facing down and in (not just the press with 5 kg Canon L zooms, those I understand), I'm embarrassed to report that the elaborate lens hoods and hood covers that Leica features on the 21-35 aspherics keep coming off when I do that. I guess you have to move a certain way...

 

Finding shots protected doesn't seem to me to be a problem, unless you have the dangerous habit of deleting while the card is in the camera. I only read into the computer using a USB2.0 reader, format in the camera and then only write in the camera. And haven't had any problems.

 

scott

 

P.S. recessing the "set" button sounds like an excellent feature to see on the M8.1 or M9.

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Well, I shot last night with my modified set of buttons and it works real nice. My only concern will be extended times in hot humid places where the tape can sometimes go a bit gooey. Anyway, I've been taping up cameras, flashes, etc since high school. My long time rock and roll flash in the eighties and nineties was a Quantum Bantam battery duct taped to the top of my Vivitar 285. Where there's a will there's a way.

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Guest guy_mancuso

Stay away from duct tape and get the real deal , buy a roll of gaffers tape . It leaves no gooey mess like duct tape. There about 20 dollars a roll

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Guest Walt

Scott-

 

No, just protecting all the frames is not important. But a single random change in the monkey-push sequence could erase all the frames. It would be the same sequence of four operations with only a single, quite possible, change (the delete instead of the protect button at step two). If a bunch of monkeys with typewriters can eventually write Hamlet, they could delete an entire SD card too.

 

Before posting this message, I just checked it out. The good news is that the delete all images actually brings up a second screen which requires that you confirm the delete with an additional turn of the wheel and the set button. So, the monkeys would need more time and luck. That's actually a bit of a relief.

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Stay away from duct tape and get the real deal , buy a roll of gaffers tape . It leaves no gooey mess like duct tape. There about 20 dollars a roll

 

I always thought in my ignorance that duct tape was gaffers tape - the silvery stuff with a cloth layer in it. I drove racing cars held together with it (one or the other) over about about 40 years. I came to the conclusion that in general, it was stronger than carbon fibre as at the end of the race, the carbon fibre was broken but the tape was still there.

 

I hate putting tape on pieces of electronic equipment as it always ends up going gooey. Black PVC insulating tape seems the least bad in this circumstance.

 

Wilson

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