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I love my M7...


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anyway, may i push film on the middle of the film roll ?
or worse, just for a frame or two? :)

 

No. If you change the dial/iso anywhere on the roll, processing does not know it. You will have over or under-exposure depending upon what ISO you choose. Custom developing where you tell the processing people what frame you adjusted will cost you a fortune (due to development by inspection) and will not likely work out at all.

 

For extreme latitude choose a C-41 process film. Google C-41.

Edited by pico
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PicoYes that's right, what I meant was to adapt to the present situation when you want to change Isos.
For me , I develop myself film so it does not pose a problem, and I note in a notebook , poses numbers

where I changed the Isos.

Best

Henry

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Ummmm, no....

if you push the roll the lab should adjust the development time for specific frames, which is not possible. Most of the labs do development of the whole roll at the same "iso".

The only solution I know is the stand development, for which concentration, time and temp is always the same, no matter what roll or iso have you set.

I use to start a Tri-X at 400, then shot at 800, then 1600, again at 400 and then develop my self in Rodinal 1+100 for one hour, and magically all the frames are ok :-)

Massimo, 

I talk with my personal experience of color and b&w development .

I do not see any significant difference in the pictures by changing isos (400>800>400) in the same roll. 

and I'm happy to have the images taken in difficult conditions. You can tell me , use a flash but I don't like it !

One more experiment last week (see the thread "I like film" ) during a wedding (inside and outside the church ).

400>800

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?p=2853912

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?p=2848664

800>400

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?p=2848876

In the notice of Tetenal C41, is noted that the change of Isos do not change development time!

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Doc,

I have no esperience in color and C41 development, but only on std B&W dev.

With Tri-X or any other B&W film, if you change the ISO you need also to change the time or temp or concentration.

Here is for example the chart for the Tri-X in Rodinal: assuming to mantain fixed concentration (1+50) and temp (20C), the time goes from 13.5 min if ISO is 400 to 16min for ISO800 till 18.5 min for ISO 1600.

When I change the ISO in the middle of the roll I develop in R09 1+100 for 1 hour, semi stand (1 min agitation at the beginning, 1 min every 30 minutes) and I get all the frames correctly developed.

Cheers,

Massimo

deb18bf5c0d5c5f18ff0ffd74a826276.jpg

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Massimo, thanks for the chart very useful

Note that the dilution varies and also changes

I must be careful

Best

Henry

Henry, you are very welcome.

The chart is a screen shot of the Massive Chart from Digitaltruth, her the link

 

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Tri-X+400&Developer=Rodinal&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C

 

Basically you have 3 parameters (time, concentration, temp) that you can change, for example at ISO 800 with 1+50 concentration, you develop in 16 minutes at 20C or in 13 minutes at 23C. Note that 13 minutes at 20C is the formula for ISO 400 with 1+50, this means that increasing the ISO you need more time or more temp to get the correct development, of course always with 1+50 concentration.

 

And if you never tried the stand development, I invite you to do it , you will be happy with the results. Here a link with the workflow

http://jbhildebrand.com/2011/tutorials/workflow-tutorial-2-stand-development-with-rodinal/

 

Cheers,

Massimo

Edited by MaDeVa
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The past two pages this thread has turned from an M7 thread to a "share your pictures and film technique" thread.  Am I the only one a bit annoyed by this?  Starting a new thread isn't that hard...

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Once upon a time some cameras used two cassettes, the factory one and another on the take up spool. And there was a film slicer in the body so you could snip a roll, wind it into the take up for separate processing. The feature goes way back to Exacta and more recently in Contax.

 

History lesson over.

Edited by pico
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Ah! I remember that Exacta. I worked, briefly, with one. Ergonomically it was horrendous, but on a tripod it was fine. I used that cutter function regularly as my job at the time was to make slides, (B&W and col) at short notice for lecturers. I was always slicing two or three frames to process 'now please'.

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  • 1 month later...

Paul , thanks for sharing ! it seems new.

Congratulations :)

Cameras with flag must be limited series.

Good photos.

Best regards

Henry

Congrats for your new entry, it looks really nice.

If not wrong, when the M7 was launched Leica made 1 camera for each distributor with the flag of its nation for demo/test.

They were not made for sale, but I have seen also the one with Italian flag on sale on eBay (made for Polyphoto).

Regards,

Massimo

Edited by MaDeVa
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Congrats for your new entry, it looks really nice.

If not wrong, when the M7 was launched Leica made 1 camera for each distributor with the flag of its nation for demo/test.

They were not made for sale, but I have seen also the one with Italian flag on sale on eBay (made for Polyphoto).

Regards,

Massimo

Correct! There were 15 M7's "Test Camera the Netherlands" made. Scandinavian version 30 pieces and German version 60 pieces. Italy had also about 30 pieces.

There are also Summicron 35/50/90 lenses with flag.

 

I prefer my black M7 with silver Summicrons.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Any comments about that Zeiss Distagon 1.4/35?

 

If you don't mind the size and weight then the sharpest and contrastiest 35mm ever. At f1.4 it has more micro-contrast and sharpness then I have ever seen.

As I came from the Voigtlander 35mm f1.2 ii (an excellent lens but with much worse corners and soft below f1.8) the weight feels fine to me ;)

I used the FLE for a bit and I slightly prefer the FLE ergonomics. Also the FLE is just as sharp in the centre. But for across the field there is nothing quite like the Zeiss.

On film the difference is smaller. The Voigtlander is warmer and more classic, the FLE is more ethereal but if you regularly use f1.4 and do as much buildings as people you will appreciate the Distagon.

 

best rgds

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know its Kitsch and taken on an iphone but I love this:

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

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