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I hated my 'new' M7 for it's DX failure. High serial : 350xxxx and still seeing the DX was ruining things. 

 

BUT NOW :

 

I love my M7, because Leica fully repaired it and fully cleaned/aligned it for free just now.

 

Happy after all !!!!!!

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Mine had that issue as well, but it wasn't really an issue for me personally because I mostly push my film anyway and don't use the automatic reading feature. That being said Leica replaced it on my old M7 as well.

 

So if anybody runs into that issue, just send it in and get it replaced for free.

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I have an early M7 which developed a slight problem with the meter. Sent back to Leica and they not only sorted the meter but updated the DX reader and carried out a full CLA. I have now, what amounts to, a new M7.

Great service.

Edited by Matlock
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I love My and I am going to add one one day . A great camera .

Cyril , good photos with your M7 !

if you like color shoot with Kodak Portra 400 or 160 and compare pictures

with digital camera ! you'll have a surprise :)

and for b&w try Kodak TX400 deep and natural black , nice scale of grey

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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A combination that I often use  is with Apo Summicron 90 Asph

Great images of portrait, architecture, street photos ..... 

 

Here a picture

 

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M9 (as back up) + Macro Elmar 90

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Another and great combo I often use  for "space effet"  and hindsight :)

Apo Telyt 135 Asph

focus at 1.5.  I don't need magnifier for this lens like for the Apo Summicron 90

a habit

 

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M9-MacroElmar 90

 

Best

Henry

 

 

 

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a picture with ApoTelyt 135, diap. open at 5.6 or 4 for bokeh

same choice for portrait

 

 

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Kodak Portra 160-M7-ApoTelyt 135 Asph

 

Best

Henry

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The DX thing is a bit of a gimmick. Just set it at the back.

It doesn't effect the quality of the photo ;)

Harold, I am not using the DX but the manual setting.

Since I generally use 400 Isos, no risk of error :D

Sometimes I even push to 800

Best regards

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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People,

 

 

Sorry for the dumb question but to push it i simply set the iso on the back?

Yes Beck , valid for color or b&w , and you can work in difficult light condition. :)

without flash or sometimes tripod. I'll post a picture for example !

Best

Henry

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Take critical note that pushing is a function of development, not a function of exposure, but the two are usually effected together, but not necessarily.

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Thanks!

 

anyway, may i push film on the middle of the film roll ?

or worse, just for a frame or two? :)

Beck , you can modify at the moment you want . No problem !

Erl is right. Sometimes I also pushed when I develop film to have much grain  :)

Best

Henry

 

Beck, this picture posted above here is pushed  > 800

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/233570-i-love-my-m7/?p=2848827

Edited by Doc Henry
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In that case should i take a note and inform my lab/store on the exact frames i pushed and the exact iso, i am guessing :)

 

If thats so, i just hope the store can cope with it, ahah

Edited by beckzito
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Another and great combo I often use  for "space effet"  and hindsight :)

Apo Telyt 135 Asph

focus at 1.5.  I don't need magnifier for this lens like for the Apo Summicron 90

a habit

 

 

Best

Henry

 

My all-black version :)

 

(X-Vario @ ISO 3200)

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My all-black version :)

 

(X-Vario @ ISO 3200)

Hi Keith !  Beautiful  combo :)  

Brand new and all black with a Apo Telyt 135 mm .  Congratulations.

Thanks for posting

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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In that case should i take a note and inform my lab/store on the exact frames i pushed and the exact iso, i am guessing :)

 

If thats so, i just hope the store can cope with it, ahah

Ummmm, no....

if you push the roll the lab should adjust the development time for specific frames, which is not possible. Most of the labs do development of the whole roll at the same "iso".

The only solution I know is the stand development, for which concentration, time and temp is always the same, no matter what roll or iso have you set.

I use to start a Tri-X at 400, then shot at 800, then 1600, again at 400 and then develop my self in Rodinal 1+100 for one hour, and magically all the frames are ok :-)

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