faranstudio Posted June 3, 2014 Share #1 Posted June 3, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) Keeping M240 and lenses in Pelican 1520 case safe and organized for location shoots and travel when other bags wont be protective enough. 50mm 1.4 ASPH and another M body will be added to the case (which there is enough space for them). Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/228244-keeping-m240-and-lenses-organized/?do=findComment&comment=2602910'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 3, 2014 Posted June 3, 2014 Hi faranstudio, Take a look here Keeping M240 and lenses organized!. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Jeff S Posted June 3, 2014 Share #2 Posted June 3, 2014 Is this for your professional shoots in lieu of medium format, e.g., for work shown on your site? Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
faranstudio Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share #3 Posted June 3, 2014 Is this for your professional shoots in lieu of medium format, e.g., for work shown on your site? Jeff Hi Jeff, Yes, I'm coupling M240 with my Hasselblad H4D-50 setup. M240 sensor and M lenses (specifically Noctilux 0.95) produce a very similar quality file output to Hasselblad/MF files which my Canon 5D MK III and L lenses won't be able to capture. Canon setup was my backup prior of getting M240. Currently M240 and Hassy both go for location shoots. For studio I mainly shoot with Hasselblad. Thanks for visiting my portfolio. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamiji Posted June 3, 2014 Share #4 Posted June 3, 2014 I am not fond of the pick foam, I much prefer the camera insert, with Velcro dividers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMJ Posted June 3, 2014 Share #5 Posted June 3, 2014 You have done a very neat job. Is it easy to cut the foam to suit the camera, lenses, etc ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnJWhite Posted June 3, 2014 Share #6 Posted June 3, 2014 The cross hatching you see in the foam is where the manufacturer has already cut the foam, leaving just a few points connecting to the adjacent squares. So all you have to do is punch out the sections you want to make positions for the camera and lenses. Spend a few minutes working out the best pattern for your gear and then have at it. And, if you change you mind or your gear later, and have saved the removed sections, you can put them all back and start over. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 3, 2014 Share #7 Posted June 3, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) I wish I were that organized.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tookaphotoof Posted June 4, 2014 Share #8 Posted June 4, 2014 Any idea how 'waterproof' this is? Looking for a solution where I can store my camera whenever in the kayak. Wouldn't want to drown the camera if I tip over. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2014 Share #9 Posted June 4, 2014 Pelican cases are supposed to be 100% waterprooof. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
faranstudio Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share #10 Posted June 4, 2014 Any idea how 'waterproof' this is? Looking for a solution where I can store my camera whenever in the kayak. Wouldn't want to drown the camera if I tip over. It doesn't say in the feature list that they are waterproof! Unless "Watertight" means waterproof. Features Ultra High Impact Polycarbonate Shell Open Cell Core with Solid Wall Design Double-Throw Latches Polymer O-Ring Waterproof Seal Large Fold Down Handle Two Padlockable Hasps Automatic Pressure Equalization Valve Stainless Steel Hardware Chemical-resistant, Corrosion-resistant, Airtight, Watertight, Dustproof, Crushproof Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2014 Share #11 Posted June 4, 2014 wa·ter·tightˈwôtərˌtīt,ˈwä-/ adjective closely sealed, fastened, or fitted so that no water enters or passes through. “a watertight seal" synonyms: impermeable, impervious, (hermetically) sealed And the seal is waterproof from your list Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echo63 Posted June 5, 2014 Share #12 Posted June 5, 2014 I havent looked at Peli case specs recently, but the old cases were advertised as waterproof to 10m (of course thats with the latches shut, release valve screwed tight** and the seal in good condition) Their warranty is pretty good too "Unconditional lifetime guarantee - does not cover shark attack, bear bite or children under 5" ** older pelican cases had a screw down valve to equalise pressure in the case to make it openable (lower pressure inside the case sucks the case closed, the vakve is needed to let air in and equalise pressure) Newer cases have a Goretex breather that allows the case equalise, but doesnt let water in Thats a very nice neatly organised case too, and i love the way it looks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herr Barnack Posted June 9, 2014 Share #13 Posted June 9, 2014 Pelican cases are indeed water proof, but you have to keep an eye on the rubber gasket for damage or foreign matter. Both will result in water leaks. Also, I read somewhere in Pelican's literature that you must replace the water seal gasket once every 12 months to ensure the waterproofness of the case. As for kayaking with an M240 in a Pelican case, I would not hesitate to do so, provided the case and gasket were damage and wear free. I have a couple of Pelican cases and have come to prefer the padded divider velcro inserts to the pick & pluck foam. As the foam ages it will begin to break down, creating thousands of miniscule flakes of foam which will find their way into your lenses and camera bodies. The only real way to prevent this is to put each component into individual ziploc plastic bags before putting them into the foam insert in the case. That, or get your Pelican case with the padded divider set instead of the foam insert to begin with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdsheepdog Posted June 9, 2014 Share #14 Posted June 9, 2014 Any idea how 'waterproof' this is? Looking for a solution where I can store my camera whenever in the kayak. Wouldn't want to drown the camera if I tip over. I kayaked in Western Canada for years in a Feathercraft up and down the coast in all sorts of weather. My M3 sat in front of me in a pelican case. Some tips: Check the individual case, by filling with tissue paper and hose testing it. Mount the case to the deck with the hinge facing forwards. This means that it opens away from you, protecting the contents somewhat from spray. Trim the foam so the camera sits looking forwards. This means it can be picked up, facing so as to be easy to use, used, and put back. Do not put a strap on it in any way. This means you cannot be tempted to leave it out of the case for a moment longer than it needs to be. Have fun, I did, and the camera survived PS, I carried, in the box, the M#, 50 mm DR Summicron, usually on the camera, 35 mm Summaron, a polarizing filter (very useful close to the water) and two rolls of Kodachrome. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tookaphotoof Posted June 9, 2014 Share #15 Posted June 9, 2014 Thanks for the tips. Certainly helpful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bephoto Posted June 9, 2014 Share #16 Posted June 9, 2014 Nice case, I would prefer Nanuk cases, way more lighter and esthetically more pleasing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalHeMan Posted June 9, 2014 Share #17 Posted June 9, 2014 I assume these cases float to a certain extent. How much weight can you put in them before they start to sink? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echo63 Posted June 9, 2014 Share #18 Posted June 9, 2014 I assume these cases float to a certain extent. How much weight can you put in them before they start to sink? Depends on the size of the case ! Little ones, not much, this 1520 size one, probably 15kg or so, and the big ones will float a lot of weight. I think the specs used to be on their site, for each sized case Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdsheepdog Posted June 10, 2014 Share #19 Posted June 10, 2014 I assume these cases float to a certain extent. How much weight can you put in them before they start to sink? If you are going to the ocean, where the specific gravity of sea water (accepted norm) is 1.025, multiply the L x B x H of your case in meters, then x the SG of whatever you are going to float it in, x 1000 to reduce to kilograms. So, a case 0.5 M x 0.3 M x 0.125 M = 0.01875 M^3, which x 1.025 x 1000 = 19.22 kG as the maximum load it will support in sea water. Deduct the weight of the case and now you can work out how many M 240's you can safely set adrift at once. Similiarly, if you want to float it in fresh water, SG 1.000, it will support 18.75 kG, or, in molten lead, SG 11.3, it will support 212 kG. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmradman Posted June 10, 2014 Share #20 Posted June 10, 2014 If you are going to the ocean, where the specific gravity of sea water (accepted norm) is 1.025, multiply the L x B x H of your case in meters, then x the SG of whatever you are going to float it in, x 1000 to reduce to kilograms. So, a case 0.5 M x 0.3 M x 0.125 M = 0.01875 M^3, which x 1.025 x 1000 = 19.22 kG as the maximum load it will support in sea water. Deduct the weight of the case and now you can work out how many M 240's you can safely set adrift at once. Similiarly, if you want to float it in fresh water, SG 1.000, it will support 18.75 kG, or, in molten lead, SG 11.3, it will support 212 kG. Molten metal was terminal for the assassin robot in Terminator 2 so good luck Peli case Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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