pgk Posted January 7, 2014 Share #41 Posted January 7, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) Here's a relatively recent (colour!) shot from my Elmarit-M taken with a UVa filter and into a very hard reflection off water of the sun, as a comparison. No problems with flare at all. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/219659-leica-90mm-elmarit-m-f28-last-version/?do=findComment&comment=2503725'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 7, 2014 Posted January 7, 2014 Hi pgk, Take a look here Leica 90mm Elmarit-M f2.8 (Last Version). I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
ThePengu1n Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share #42 Posted January 7, 2014 I'll send it to Solms and see what they say. I only bought it about a month or so ago, so don't know the history of it. It looks very clean and free of any scratches and clear when I shined the flashlight through it so hopefully it just needs a proper clean. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 7, 2014 Share #43 Posted January 7, 2014 Let me guess, this is the lens that you own? Maybe you could meet up with Olaf? Take a tape measure and see which of you is able to piss the furthest or highest. No, I don't. And I didn't use the term "best", Puts did. I only cited the quote in response to O1af's post, with the preface of "FWIW," which for me is not much. This forum is gear focused, and mostly entertainment for me in these types of threads. I get by just fine with 3 lenses in my kit, using mostly 2, none of which is a 90. My focus is on pics and prints. And I don't need the forum for that. Carry on with the show; you just made it predictably better. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
01af Posted January 7, 2014 Share #44 Posted January 7, 2014 Interesting that [the Macro-Elmar-M 90 mm 1:4] didn't make your list at all. Sorry—that's just because it wasn't on my radar. To me, it's a macro lens more than a 90 mm lens ... which of course doesn't do it justice. After all, it is a very good all-purpose 90 mm lens if you can do with the slower speed. Anyway—I carefully compared the Apo-Summicron-M, Summarit-M, and Elmarit-M 90 mm lenses against each other, so I'm having a firm idea how they compare. All three are excellent, but yet there are a few small differences. I did not test the Macro-Elmar-M 90 mm so I don't have an idea how exactly it is ranked among the others ... but I'm sure it's excellent, too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppyman Posted January 7, 2014 Share #45 Posted January 7, 2014 That sample photo does appear to have more veiling flare than I would expect. Certainly, as others have mentioned, flare can be provoked with any lens. If you cannot see any visible fogging or defect when looking through the lens with a strong light source, I would be inclined to shoot some more testing before concluding that the lens is at fault though. The first place I would start would be careful cleaning of the front and rear elements. Fingerprints there are very possible contributors. Consider checking with and without (any) filters that you are using (clean those surfaces too) and always using the hood is good practice. If you set up a test where you are consistently seeing flare, take a look if you can (camera on a tripod) and see if that light just out of frame is shining directly on the front element (with the angle of the extended hood)., I don't recall reading any reports from anyone of issues with this design. That doesn't mean anything conclusive of course. If you are planning to have the lens coded, then it makes sense to have the lens checked and serviced as needed at the same time. I did exactly that . Mine was done by the Australian agent and it is flawless in operation and calibration. In my experience it really is an excellent lens and perhaps under-valued/appreciated amongst the used lenses available. Becky photo - Geoff Hopkinson photos at pbase.com C437 photo - Geoff Hopkinson photos at pbase.com C461 photo - Geoff Hopkinson photos at pbase.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 7, 2014 Share #46 Posted January 7, 2014 ...Take a tape measure and see which of you is able to piss the furthest or highest. Ok, if you agree to stand downwind. [Jaap deleted a word from my earlier post, so I thought I would address your point more directly, without using offensive language.] Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted January 7, 2014 Share #47 Posted January 7, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) Shining a UV light through a lens is a good way to detect contamination as it often fluoresces in UV light. I have a three way torch that has UV LED’s (I think originally designed to detect fake bank notes), as well as ordinary LED’s and a laser. It is great at detecting a lens that needs cleaning. My Summicron-C 40 that looked OK in ordinary light, showed up in UV that it really needed a thorough clean. Post cleaning it is now perfect in UV light. Wilson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rramesh Posted January 8, 2014 Share #48 Posted January 8, 2014 I'm going to send it to Solms as I was planning to get it 6 bit coded anyway. Do you know if this Is this something that they can fix easily if it is fogging or mist on the lens (part of a CLA)? Thanks again. I sent my 90 Elmarit-M to Solms shortly after purchase to have it 6 bit coded and CLA. In my case I had not problems and Leica did a very good job. 2 months and quite a few pennies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWC Doppel Posted January 8, 2014 Share #49 Posted January 8, 2014 I did have a 90 2.8 Elmarit and whilst I didnt experience flare the resolution was not as good as I was expecting/hoping. I sent it to Malcolm Taylor for a service and code and he said there was some fogging on the lens internally from oil mist. Perhaps this lens is more prone to this than others, I have sent 10 or so lenses to Malcolm and I don't recall any others having the same problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted January 8, 2014 Share #50 Posted January 8, 2014 When I first got my 90/2.8 in 2007, I too was a little disappointed in the sharpness on the M8. I posted a couple of examples. Someone (possibly Jaap) suggested that I increased the shutter speed and hey presto, pin sharp images. The old rule of thumb for film, was to use the focal length of the lens in mm, as the minimum shutter speed. Well on digital, I reckon you can increase that by 50% or maybe 75% for optimum sharpness. Of course, with Photoshop CC, you can now remove camera shake and it works surprisingly well. Wilson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carduelis Posted January 8, 2014 Share #51 Posted January 8, 2014 When I first got my 90/2.8 in 2007, I too was a little disappointed in the sharpness on the M8. I posted a couple of examples. Someone (possibly Jaap) suggested that I increased the shutter speed and hey presto, pin sharp images. The old rule of thumb for film, was to use the focal length of the lens in mm, as the minimum shutter speed. Well on digital, I reckon you can increase that by 50% or maybe 75% for optimum sharpness. Of course, with Photoshop CC, you can now remove camera shake and it works surprisingly well. Wilson With the Tele-Elmarit 90 mm thin lens being half the weight of the Elmarit 90 mm M lens, I think it comes into its own in avoiding camera shake despite its age and occasional flare issues. I think it is worth having both of these lenses at this focal length. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 8, 2014 Share #52 Posted January 8, 2014 When I first got my 90/2.8 in 2007, I too was a little disappointed in the sharpness on the M8. I posted a couple of examples. Someone (possibly Jaap) suggested that I increased the shutter speed and hey presto, pin sharp images. The old rule of thumb for film, was to use the focal length of the lens in mm, as the minimum shutter speed. Well on digital, I reckon you can increase that by 50% or maybe 75% for optimum sharpness. Of course, with Photoshop CC, you can now remove camera shake and it works surprisingly well. Wilson That's exactly what I have felt just in THESE days of first tests with M and 90 and 135 : also on M8 I had the feel that the old dumb rule of "t=1/f" was at limit... with M 240 is definitely out : by converse, with correct time anf focus, my Elmarit 90 M does give superb imagery on M... but admit that I seldom use (and have used) it in flare/prone situations... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wda Posted January 8, 2014 Share #53 Posted January 8, 2014 For some time I try to double the old rule when determining minimum shutter speeds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePengu1n Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share #54 Posted January 9, 2014 Glad to hear that. It's on its way to Solms for a CLA and 6-bit coding. The initial quote I got from the HK distributor was almost half the cost of what I paid for the lens... I'm hoping it's not as much sending it direct. I sent my 90 Elmarit-M to Solms shortly after purchase to have it 6 bit coded and CLA. In my case I had not problems and Leica did a very good job. 2 months and quite a few pennies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sisoje Posted January 15, 2014 Share #55 Posted January 15, 2014 Got one used but mint condition in October. Had a "third party" lens 6bit coding and some internal dust. Sent it to NJ service vie my Leica dealer (even I got the lens elsewhere). 4 weeks later and $300 I got the lens back in tip-top shape... Sharp like razor! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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