focus peaking on M240- Next to useless wide open?

[quadraticadder]

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I have the same experience as Jaques.

Wide open at 1.0 (I have the latest E60 1.0) and even going to 1.4 will not show appropriate focus peaking to assist you with getting the focus right.

I tried it last week, but light conditions were pretty poor. Will try soon with better light:cool:

 

 

John

 

Okay that's it. Someone send me a 0.95 Noct and I'll check it out for myself. Hurry, send it.

Best,

Steve

[jaques]

I have the same experience as Jaques.

Wide open at 1.0 (I have the latest E60 1.0) and even going to 1.4 will not show appropriate focus peaking to assist you with getting the focus right.

I tried it last week, but light conditions were pretty poor. Will try soon with better light:cool:

 

 

John

at f0.95- I would expect light conditions to be poor. That is the point of f0.95. Kind of defeats the purpose if it doesn't work when you need it... I found on some objects you can get the odd fleck of red at magnification in bright light- but only at 10x. It is next to useless.

 

This matter confuses me: as I am sure I recall some users reporitng early on that the focus peaking was great for lenses like the Noctilux... perhaps they meant stopped down to f8 maybe?

[jip]

at f0.95- I would expect light conditions to be poor. That is the point of f0.95. Kind of defeats the purpose if it doesn't work when you need it... I found on some objects you can get the odd fleck of red at magnification in bright light- but only at 10x. It is next to useless. This matter confuses me: as I am sure I recall some users reporitng early on that the focus peaking was great for lenses like the Noctilux... perhaps they meant stopped down to f8 maybe?

 

The point of a Noctilux is not just light, for light we now have ISO, so the only reason left to buy a Noctilux instead of a summilux is the character of the lens... With the new M and clean ISO going up till 3200, we really don't need a Noctilux for it's light sensitivity.

[jaques]

perhaps we don't 'need' it... in fact no one needs a noctilux ever arguably... but I wouldn't say people only buy now for the character. And although the high ISO is improved- it is still not good enough that I wouldn't use a lower ISO if I could. I enjoyed using the Noctilux wide open at f1 shooting low light no-flash allowed stage/performance work at ISO 200- where other photographers around me had to push their ISO right up to get anything with their f4 and up zoom lenses.

 

and in any case: I doubt the peaking would work with a Summilux at f1.4 either.

[farnz]

Jaques,

 

Have you tried turning down the luminance a smidge on your EVF? This might help the red lines to show more prominently.

 

Pete.

[jaapv]

perhaps we don't 'need' it... in fact no one needs a noctilux ever arguably... but I wouldn't say people only buy now for the character. And although the high ISO is improved- it is still not good enough that I wouldn't use a lower ISO if I could. I enjoyed using the Noctilux wide open at f1 shooting low light no-flash allowed stage/performance work at ISO 200- where other photographers around me had to push their ISO right up to get anything with their f4 and up zoom lenses.

 

and in any case: I doubt the peaking would work with a Summilux at f1.4 either.

It works on mine - but I had to check it specifically - I wouldn’t know when or why to use it with the lens.

[Dannybuoy]

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I find focus peaking much easier using the official Leica Peaking Duck attachment. It's expensive for what you actually get but sure gives tasty results.

[quadraticadder]

Jaques,

 

Have you tried turning down the luminance a smidge on your EVF? This might help the red lines to show more prominently.

 

Pete.

 

Try shooting in DNG and set the camera to black and white film. The red peaking lines may show better in the black and white image in the EVF, and the DNG can be any colour you like in post processing.

 

Best,

Steve