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Soft photographs on m2 w/ elmar 2.8 50mm


louispreynolds

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I would like to say I prefer the look of film, but it seems only when the photo is from every other person in the world, except mine.

I just cannot get a sharp image at all. I'm shooting a Leica m2 w/ Elmar 50 2.8 (which I know is sharp especially above f/4). It's not the focusing, it's not the lens (I tried it on an m9 and was as sharp as anything) and I have used kodak ektar in it. Still when I scan in my negatives there is nothing sharp about them at all...what do you think I could be doing wrong?

Or is it normal to have to do a lot of unsharp masking afterwards (2-3 pixels at 100 strength on PS CS6)

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Film scanners like nikon or Minolta need to be focused.

 

Flatbed scanners are a hit or miss focus. shims are used to raise or film holders.

 

Emulsion side should be down on flat bed.

 

Take the 50 mm lens and look at the neg with it to be sure it is sharp.

 

Elmars are not super sharp at 2.8. They will be fine 4 to 11

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When I use an epson v700 flatbed scanner I need to apply a lot of usm. The Plustek 8100 is far sharper. I have bought some "better scanning" holders that are more adjustable and this winter I'll sit down to find their best adjustment. I think your problem is your scanner rather than your lens.

Pete

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Even though I have my Minolta Scan Elite 5400 set to autofocus the resulting scans still need sharpening in Lightroom. I've always sharpened using software rather than trying to get the scanner to do it.

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Even though I have my Minolta Scan Elite 5400 set to autofocus the resulting scans still need sharpening in Lightroom. I've always sharpened using software rather than trying to get the scanner to do it.

 

Sharpening is to recover from the digitizing process. It has to be done M cameras, my KM 5400, and other scanners . Just part of the fun.

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I am using an epson v370, with the negative adapter.

 

i will do that 50mm lens thing that sounds like a cool method! never knew!

 

it is a flatbed, is there a way of makiing it more in focus then? (maybe making the film press down on the glass to get closer to the sensor?

 

Get a better scanner! You won't be able to improve your results by much with this one (to be honest there aren't many scanners that are worse).

Have a look at this page: Scan-Service Scannen Dias Negative Fotos APS-Filme Mittelformate; Dienstleistung Digitalisieren Einscannen, Video-Digitalisierung to read about the different available scanners. If you own a good digital camera you could also use it to digitize your negatives.

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Or is it normal to have to do a lot of unsharp masking afterwards (2-3 pixels at 100 strength on PS CS6)

 

There are so many variables it is hard to say what may be wrong. But in terms of sharpening the first thing to do is turn sharpening off for the scanner and do it in Photoshop after the image has been re-sized. Depending on the final size 'print' I would use value's ranging from 1 pixel at 80 Amount, to 1 pixel at 160 Amount. Also turn off any dust or scratch removal software as this degrades the image (and for those using B&W it won't work anyway).

 

Your scanner may be the limiting factor. For the V700 for example you can adjust the height of the negative holder up or down with the plastic feet. It is crude but can sometimes work. A company called Betterscanning make a fully adjustable holder that can be precisely adjusted for optimum focus. I don't know about the V350 but you could try shimming the holder up, and if possible down, and doing focus tests each time to set an accurate height. Once done it will work for all your negs. I assume the V370 is like the V700 in that the illuminating light source is in the lid, in which case the film emulsion should be placed facing upwards to stop light reflecting in and off the films shiny base layer. In truth it often doesn't make much difference though.

 

Even the V700 won't do very good 35mm scans, unless it's just a contact sheet, it is very good at medium format and large format however. So you may be better off buying a Plustek scanner specifically for 35mm.

 

Steve

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