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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

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Guys I have been reading the M manual and see that it is possible to save a user profile……………What is that and do we need them:confused:?

Thanks in advance

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These are very personal. I will tell you what I have but they may not suit your style:

 

Profile 1 is my "default". ISO 200, DNG only.

Profile 2 is DNG+JPG for when I am traveling an need the jpgs for review

Profile 3 is the same as 1 but turns on 1 stop bracketing for 5 frames

Profile 4 sets lens detection to manual; framelines to red; selects code 11134 which is what I use for 12mm CV

 

Could I do the same thing with some key presses? Yes, of course. This is just an easy way to get where I want to go. I do not set an ISO in a profile (other than the default 200) because that tends to be too changeable.

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS
Don't forget to save the "Profiles.M" file on other volume(s) than your card as it will be erased when you format the latter.
When you say save on another volume is that possible to save it in camera??
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I have predefined profiles and use them regularly.

 

Most of all I use "Profile 1" which contains my own preferences for "regular" shooting. This will always be my starting point so I know precisely where I am when I begin going through the menu to change settings for a particular situation. When I have finished that particular special setting shoot it is quick and easy to revert back to "Profile 1" rather than having to go through the process of setting each menu item back to my preferred, standard mode.

 

Before returning the camera to the bag I routinely set it back to "Profile 1". So in a nutshell, the preset modes for me is more a tool to get quickly back to base, rather than a tool to adapt to any of the multitude of special situations that can occur.

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I find the user profiles very useful. It is so easy to change profiles to meet your needs for a specific job.

Compared to Nikon profiles, the M is more user friendly. If you have to change a parameter when you are in a user preset, the M do not change your preset.

It means, if you are in a user profile like mine DNG ISO 200, and I need a higher ISO, I can just change it. All the other parameters set in the profile are not affected. When you want to go back to the preset profile, just press the set button,and you can choose your preferred profile, without the changes of what you did change before .

When you do so with the Nikon it will change the profile. It means, you have to remember what you changed and than adjust to your original profile.

My profiles:

DNG ISO 200

JPG Fine ISO 200

B/W DNG

JPG fine, auto ISO

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

User Profiles

When I get home I plan to set mine like this.....................maybe I will use them

1. Day ISO 200, DNG, WB Auto.

2. Night ISO Auto (3200/100) DNG, WB Auto

3. Sunset ISO 200 DNG, EV -1 WB Kelvin 9500

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When you say save on another volume is that possible to save it in camera??

When you choose "Export Profiles to Card" in the "Manage Profiles" submenu of the "User Profile" menu, a "Profiles.M" file is created automatically on the SD card inserted in the camera. It is advised to save this file on the hard disk of your computer or to any other volume for sake of precaution as your profiles will be lost in case of reset of the camera and the "Profiles.M" file of the card will be erased when you format the latter as suggested above.

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If you want to reduce the wakeup times of your M240 you may wish to set "Auto Power Off" to "Off" in the setup menu and to save this setting in a special profile (i call mine "fast") for circumstances where battery drain is less important than catching the decisive moment.

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Just to be clear. This is not the camera profile that takes the bits from the sensor and turns them into a viewable picture. To my knowledge of the M240 there is only one camera profile, and it shows up in Lightroom and Photoshop CS6/CC as an alternative to the Adobe default profile.

 

This is in contrast to a camera that has many profiles available, such as the Nikon D2x which has about 12 camera profiles that are user selectable.

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User Profiles

When I get home I plan to set mine like this.....................maybe I will use them

1. Day ISO 200, DNG, WB Auto.

2. Night ISO Auto (3200/100) DNG, WB Auto

3. Sunset ISO 200 DNG, EV -1 WB Kelvin 9500

 

Yup .... you got the idea ....:)

 

I have

 

DAY

INDOORS

NIGHT

HDR

 

all with different auto settings, WB, timer delay etc. (particularly lowest auto shutter speed) ....... HDR has everything auto turned off, manual WB, ISO 200 and 5 shot bracketing.

 

on my MM I have taken a different approach:

 

WIDE

NORMAL

PORTRAIT

TELE-MACRO

 

with variations being basically the lowest shutter speed on auto.....

 

Once you start you will be forever fiddling and refining ........ to be honest another half a dozen would be handy ....

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User Profiles

When I get home I plan to set mine like this.....................maybe I will use them

1. Day ISO 200, DNG, WB Auto.

2. Night ISO Auto (3200/100) DNG, WB Auto

3. Sunset ISO 200 DNG, EV -1 WB Kelvin 9500

 

Interesting to know from the Forum which is felt works best for sun rise/set. K5400 or K9500. Although the latter is the temperature of the light, I thought setting this temperature would neutralise the colour you want to capture.

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS
Interesting to know from the Forum which is felt works best for sun rise/set. K5400 or K9500. Although the latter is the temperature of the light, I thought setting this temperature would neutralise the colour you want to capture.

Most of my sunrise/sunsets are shot at Kelvin 9500 plus................it works good for me:D

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Most of my sunrise/sunsets are shot at Kelvin 9500 plus................it works good for me:D

 

If it works for you, that's great and I was not suggesting you do otherwise. It was a genuine generic question. My understanding is this setting, and AWB, will try and turn the light to a 18% grey. I am here to learn and occasionally help.

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS
If it works for you, that's great and I was not suggesting you do otherwise. It was a genuine generic question. My understanding is this setting, and AWB, will try and turn the light to a 18% grey. I am here to learn and occasionally help.

 

Switching to Kelvin allows you to adjust the temperature control, the higher the number the warmer it gets making the reds and yellows in a sunrise/sunset more saturated orange

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