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Focusing Leica 1A without rangefinder


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I hope that this is in the correct forum. I am looking to get hold of a 1A and am aware it does not have a rangefinder. How did people focus before 1933 when the rangefinder adapter was produced ?

 

With my iiif I can just either zone focus using the markings on the lens or, for landscapes, use infinity at say f16 knowing everything from 5m is in focus. Is this how it was done with the 1A and say an Elmar and are there any guidelines anywhere for distances and focusing for this lens/camera combination?

 

John

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Leitz had separate rangefinders from the beginning of the Leica (FONOR, FOKOS, etc.) - but most usage was by estimating distance and using depth of field. (Even in 1952 the original Asahiflex was used the same. It had a waist-level for fine focus and an eye-level viewfinder for framing. For fast work you ignored the WL.)

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At the issue of the Leica Ia the FOFER range findert was the most in use and the ERC top have room for it as it was room for two film container.

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I think, in the olden pre-rangefinder days, people just pretty well estimated distances for routine photography. The box cameras of the time used a relatively small aperture and slow shutter speed so that almost everything from about 10 ft. or so to infinity was reasonably in focus. Early 35mm lenses weren't speed demons, so I think initially people just followed their hallowed practices. Many of the folder cameras had notches for adjusting the focus on the bellows for different distances, such as 10ft, 25 ft, infinity. Indeed, many camera manufacturers, in their instruction sheets, basically told people that you shoot portraits at 8-12 ft., groups ip to around 25 ft., and landscapes at infinity. In the case of 35mm - it wasn't contemplated that enlargements would be much more than 5-6x, so fine focus was less of an issue.

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Forgot about that trick. Another I used with my first 35mm film camera (which had a viewfinder but not rangefinder) was that floor tiles (for interior shots) and the spacing between cement sidewalk sections (outdoor shots) were a standard size and counting the number of spacing units between the photographer and subject was a very effective quick & dirty way of generally nailing focus. Lastly, when one had a couple of seconds of time, counting paces between the subject (or anticipated point of focus) and photographer worked pretty well also.

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If you search on Ebay there are hundreds of small rangefinders by many makers that will help and can be bought for not much money. Obviously make sure the one you get matches either the feet or metres of your lens. Two makes I like are Watameter and Voigtlander. You may need an adapter to make them clear the other things on top of your camera, but it isn't essential that they fit your accessory shoe and you can use them hand held then transfer the reading to your lens.

 

Steve

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  • 5 months later...

These links any good?

FEB ARTICLE: How to Make a Rangefinder for Minox cameras. - Photo.net Minox Forum

Human Rangefinder Card Generator

 

I hope that this is in the correct forum. I am looking to get hold of a 1A and am aware it does not have a rangefinder. How did people focus before 1933 when the rangefinder adapter was produced ?

 

With my iiif I can just either zone focus using the markings on the lens or, for landscapes, use infinity at say f16 knowing everything from 5m is in focus. Is this how it was done with the 1A and say an Elmar and are there any guidelines anywhere for distances and focusing for this lens/camera combination?

 

John

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I seem to remember reading somewhere (possibly inference from an old catalog? or Puts?) that the rangefinders were originally marketed mainly for close-up photography (1-3 m) while focus at distances beyond that was assumed to be simple enough to guess.

 

I seem to remember reading somewhere else that f/3.5 was deemed by Leitz to be the widest aperture at which this type of part-guessing procedure was practicable.

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As a basic 35mm camera in the sunshine and with it behind you the Leica 1 Model A at F18 at 500, or 200 if yellow filter, deals with most "snaps" with everything in focus from 4.6 metres approx. Whilst I have only been a photographer for over a year and don't fully trust my eye and judgment yet, in the summer I can see myself on occasions not even taking a lightmeter or Rangefinder.

 

I generally use the Fodis Rangefinder when I want to focus on something in the foreground to make it stand out against the background and so far that has generally been 3-12 feet away.

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