charmicarmicat Posted August 5, 2013 Share #1 Posted August 5, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello all. Please bear with me as I am potentially asking question that have already been answered many times. I've used Diafine eclusively for the past two years and I am ready for something different. Been looking around, not reading mind you, just looking, and the photography that spoke to me the most as far as "look" were the ones developed Rodinal/Adonal. I found the texture and tonal range very pleasing. I have also done some reading about how to handle Rodinal/Adonal and I am not finding the answers I am looking for hence me coming here and asking for some help clarifying a few things. My set up is very simple: one metal canister and four Hewes 35mm spools. Here are the questions. 1-The bottle of Adox/Adonal I bought indicates a dilution of 1+50. Please correct me if I am wrong but what I make of it is for 50CL of water I have to add 1CL of Adonal, correct? So for my four roll developing tank I would basically have 2CL of Adonal for 100CL (one Liter) of water that would fit in said tank. Right? Wrong? 2-Agitation, development time etc. Looking at the massive development chart it looks that when shooting Tri-X at 400 the development time is of 13 minutes. Is there a basic formula as far as agitation? A base to start with to get the feel of it and then experiment? Gentle agitation, hard agitation? Tapping the can X amount of times to release the air bubbles? What I understand, and again, please correct me if I am wrong, is this: Every minute four hard agitations (up and down) followed by some tapping to release bubbles. Repeat 13 times. 3-I know that Tri-X is rated at around 320 and some rate it even lower. I have shot a few rolls already and not paying attention, I shot them at box speed, thus 400. Will there be huge difference between the way I develop the Tri-X at 400 and the one shot at 320? 4-Stop bath. I never used one for Diafine and got fine results. I basically did Solutions A then returned to bottle, Solution B returned to bottle and then filled the tank with water and gently agitated it and dumped the water and then proceeded with the fixer which was Ilford Rapid Fixer. Can I continue this method with Adonal or do I need stop bath. If so any recommendations? I am sure I will have more questions as answers start coming in but one thing I am certain of, Rodinal/Adonal is the next step for me. Thank you all for taking the time and please be gentle Guy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 5, 2013 Posted August 5, 2013 Hi charmicarmicat, Take a look here Rodinal/Adox Adonal Newbie. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Michael Hiles Posted August 5, 2013 Share #2 Posted August 5, 2013 Hi. Your dilution calculation is fine. 2 volume developer, 100 volume of water. Other dilutions are possible, but leave that for much later. My suggestion – pour the developer into the tank, and rap it firmly on the table top 3-4 times to dislodge any bubbles. Then agitate by inverting the tank 180 degrees 3-4-5 times in the first 20 or so seconds. The invert the tank 180 degrees 3 times each minute thereafter. There is no gentle or hard. I leave enough air space so that the developer moves quite a lot, much like turning over a slightly less than full closed glass of water. You want completely fresh developer at the film surface, so don’t leave so little air space that the developer doesn’t move much when you invert the tank. But this is not all that precise – most important is to be consistent every time. Do the same thing every time, and if you find you are under or over developing at little, adjust the time, not the technique. Many people (including me) find that my personal speed for Tri-X (which I rarely use any more) is about 200 ASA. You may want a thinner negative… The right development time is whatever is necessary to produce the right contrast in the negative. Start with the published times – a good place to start - and adjust depending on your result and judgement. I don’t think stop bath much matters either way. 2-3 water rinses will be fine, but stop bath won’t make any difference. You want to stop the development (which the dilution by rinse will do) and dilute things so you are not contaminating the fixer with developer. It is crucial in printing, but for negatives, no big deal. Rodinal is very nice – it produces a sense of great sharpness, but it also promotes coarse grain. Quite noticeable in Tri-X. It has stood the test of time – I think it is mentioned in the bible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted August 5, 2013 Share #3 Posted August 5, 2013 Very good Michael. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted August 5, 2013 Share #4 Posted August 5, 2013 Go gentle with the agitation, i use Rodinal at 1+25, 1+50, 1+100 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmicarmicat Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share #5 Posted August 5, 2013 Thank you Michael for the very clear reply. Excellent stuff. And thank you for the tip gsgary. Noted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted August 5, 2013 Share #6 Posted August 5, 2013 Last weekend i cocked up and shot some Tmax 100 at iso400 so developed in tusty Rodinal 1+100 1 hour stand and it didn't let me down Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmicarmicat Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share #7 Posted August 6, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) Woah! Looks nice, gsgary. What's the deal with stand development? Not that I want to get into it but just curious. Is this something typical of Rodinal or is it something for all developers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted August 6, 2013 Share #8 Posted August 6, 2013 I'm not sure if you can stand develope with others i only use Rodinal/DDX and Ilfosol3, there is lots of info on Flickr, i like to experiment i get given quite a lot of out of date film so i like to play XP2 (C41) developed in Rodinal Kodachrome 64 developed in Rodinal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maarten Posted August 6, 2013 Share #9 Posted August 6, 2013 This is an example of Tri-X rated at 400 ASA and developed exactly as Michael describes it for 13 minutes in Rodinal 1:50. Maarten Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/210224-rodinaladox-adonal-newbie/?do=findComment&comment=2391664'>More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted August 6, 2013 Share #10 Posted August 6, 2013 Very nice - seems to have worked well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmicarmicat Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share #11 Posted August 6, 2013 Thanks Zuidema! That's what I'm talking about. I love those mid tones. BTW, this looks very much like Holland in the background. Is it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maarten Posted August 6, 2013 Share #12 Posted August 6, 2013 Yes Guy, well noted that's Holland. Utrecht, the park near the Theater, to be very precise. The picture was taken by my daughter last winter. When you are familiar with the city you will recognize this picture as well. Also Tri-X and from the same roll as above. Maarten Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/210224-rodinaladox-adonal-newbie/?do=findComment&comment=2391923'>More sharing options...
pico Posted August 7, 2013 Share #13 Posted August 7, 2013 Dilution: if you mix 1 part Rodinal to 50 parts water or 1 part Rodinal to 49 parts water will make no difference, really. I do the later. Everything is good. Rodinal preference is almost religious. I use it for MF and LF photography but use D-76 1:1 for 35mm. Whatever you wish in the final results is all that matters. Here is an extreme push using the now defunct (I think) Kodak 2475 Recording film in Rodinal @1:25. Full frame. (85mm Canon lens on Leica M4.) It was a film of last resort for us old newspaper photographers http://www.digoliardi.net/dawn.jpg Taken in our farmhouse with a single 60W bulb in the ceiling. God, those days were so depressing for an almost broke tramp news photographer, . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastel Posted August 7, 2013 Share #14 Posted August 7, 2013 http://www.digoliardi.net/dawn.jpg Taken in our farmhouse with a single 60W bulb in the ceiling. God, those days were so depressing for an almost broke tramp news photographer, . honestly, this does not look depressing to me at all. ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmicarmicat Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share #15 Posted August 7, 2013 Here's a shot of Tri-X at 800 with Diafine. I've been to Utrecht before Zuidema, that's Winkel van Sinkel, right? Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/210224-rodinaladox-adonal-newbie/?do=findComment&comment=2392302'>More sharing options...
semi-ambivalent Posted August 7, 2013 Share #16 Posted August 7, 2013 Dilution: if you mix 1 part Rodinal to 50 parts water or 1 part Rodinal to 49 parts water will make no difference, really. I do the later. Everything is good. Rodinal preference is almost religious. I use it for MF and LF photography but use D-76 1:1 for 35mm. Whatever you wish in the final results is all that matters. Here is an extreme push using the now defunct (I think) Kodak 2475 Recording film in Rodinal @1:25. Full frame. (85mm Canon lens on Leica M4.) It was a film of last resort for us old newspaper photographers http://www.digoliardi.net/dawn.jpg Taken in our farmhouse with a single 60W bulb in the ceiling. God, those days were so depressing for an almost broke tramp news photographer, . OP, There's a flickr group 'dedicated' to Rodinal and stand developing, it you're in the mood for information overload. Lots of great examples there. True, Rodinal has a certain fervor amongst it's users but it can produce a fabulous palette of grays. Pico, Someone over on APUG once posted that with 2475 even contact prints looked grainy. I shot a lot of it in the early 1970s but it's been an age since I've seen a print from it. So distinctive. Wonderful. Those might have been depressing times but that image is a beautiful record of a moment back then. Great work! s-a Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmicarmicat Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share #17 Posted August 7, 2013 Pico: That's a beautiful shot. Definitely from a time long gone. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmicarmicat Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share #18 Posted August 7, 2013 One more question folks: Temperature. Is it crucial? I was told when I started developing with Diafine that all should be at the same temperature. Prepare everything the night before, let is stand in the same room overnight so that everything would be at the same temperature and then go for it. I did it and it worked. Would the same idea apply to Rodinal/Adonal or is it temperature sensitive and stick with the 20C temp? Thanks again everybody for putting me on the right track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted August 7, 2013 Share #19 Posted August 7, 2013 This is HP5 @ iso800 in Rodinal with 12g sodium sulphite added Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted August 7, 2013 Share #20 Posted August 7, 2013 One more question folks: Temperature. Is it crucial? You don't want the temperatures to be high enough to damage the emulsion, nor different enough between developer, stop, fix to cause reticulation. That is not difficult to maintain. I would not let the dilute Rodinal sit overnight. Just the water. Add Rodinal to water a couple minutes before use. Sodium sulphite mentioned by gsgary will soften the grain, if that is what you want. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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