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Need Tri Elmar lens shade advice


rclompus

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I am using the original tri-elmar 28-35-50 lens with a new B&W IR/UV filter and an M8. For the first time, I got some flare in my photos. The front element is recessed a bit and a lens shade is not needed when a filter is not attached.

 

Does anyone have the Leica part number for the recommended lens shade for the original tri-elmar ?

 

Thanks.

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Greetings.

 

Check with POPFLASH.COM they occassionally have 12592 lens hoods on their website. I use this on my first version TE with a B+W 55mm UV/IR filter. The other thing I have done, because I miss having a focus tab I put a black plastic cable tie around the focus ring (cut off the spare length) which in turn gives me a small focus tab.... Cable Ties, Releasable Cable Ties, Plastic Cable Tie, Reusable Cable Ties

 

The TE is a great lens on the M8

 

Cheers. Terry.

 

PS I just checked POPFLASH and they do have one 12592!

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hi terry,

 

v. interesting solution indeed. i got the original TE about a month ago and have been thinking about a focusing tab problem/solution...any other TE suggestions? - i am new to rangerfinders in general, and find TE to be a bit overwhelming..

thanks

misha

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hi terry,

 

v. interesting solution indeed. i got the original TE about a month ago and have been thinking about a focusing tab problem/solution...any other TE suggestions? - i am new to rangerfinders in general, and find TE to be a bit overwhelming..

thanks

misha

 

Hi Misha, you are in the right place then. There is always a 1000 and one tips and tricks from the member community here. That is why if something works for me I try to pass it on here and I am sure you will find yourself doing the same.

 

Cheers. Terry.

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I am using the original tri-elmar 28-35-50 lens with a new B&W IR/UV filter and an M8. For the first time, I got some flare in my photos. The front element is recessed a bit and a lens shade is not needed when a filter is not attached.

 

Does anyone have the Leica part number for the recommended lens shade for the original tri-elmar ?

 

Thanks.

 

 

The number posted is indeed correct for the TE hood. They are about $150 new. KEH sometimes has them for a lot less.

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Hi Misha, you are in the right place then. There is always a 1000 and one tips and tricks from the member community here. That is why if something works for me I try to pass it on here and I am sure you will find yourself doing the same.

 

Cheers. Terry.

 

at this point, from my side, giving advice to people on this forum is more wishful thinking than anything. still very much in the learning mode...

when m8 arrived, i got two lenses cv15 (great and something that i felt very comfortable the day it arrived) and a used 1st edition TE, which i am still struggling with and unless things change, will probably sell (i got a decent price at adorama so probably wont take a big hit passing it on), and will probably go all prime. what is your experience with it when it comes to street photography? i find choosing the right focal lengh to be quite distractive from quickly focusing and shooting.

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Misha--

Don't let the TE get in the way of what you're shooting.

 

The best way to learn to use the M is to put a single focal length on it and go out and shoot. That way you learn to see with that lens. You're not thinking whether you need to change to another lens and you don't even have another lens with you. You use a 28, say, or a 35, and walk your chosen area. Pretty soon you start to see your surroundings with the sense already in your mind of what that lens will cover. In other words, as you lift the camera to your eye, you already know the image fits the field of view; you focus (or you've already zone-focused) and snap and go on your way.

 

There's nothing wrong with the TE; it's the lens most often on my camera, and makes a great travel lens.

 

But when you're doing street photography, you need to quit thinking of it as three different lenses. Just set it to a given focal length and forget you've got other choices: "Today I'm shooting with a 28" or "Today I'm shooting with a 35."

 

It's an art that used to be natural to photography, but zoom lenses changed the need for seeing like the camera before getting it to the eye. It's one of the great creative challenges of the M camera, and one of the tricks to developing the speed and immediacy that the Leica is known for.

 

My opinion.

 

--HC

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Misha--

Don't let the TE get in the way of what you're shooting.

 

The best way to learn to use the M is to put a single focal length on it and go out and shoot. That way you learn to see with that lens. You're not thinking whether you need to change to another lens and you don't even have another lens with you. You use a 28, say, or a 35, and walk your chosen area. Pretty soon you start to see your surroundings with the sense already in your mind of what that lens will cover. In other words, as you lift the camera to your eye, you already know the image fits the field of view; you focus (or you've already zone-focused) and snap and go on your way.

 

There's nothing wrong with the TE; it's the lens most often on my camera, and makes a great travel lens.

 

But when you're doing street photography, you need to quit thinking of it as three different lenses. Just set it to a given focal length and forget you've got other choices: "Today I'm shooting with a 28" or "Today I'm shooting with a 35."

 

It's an art that used to be natural to photography, but zoom lenses changed the need for seeing like the camera before getting it to the eye. It's one of the great creative challenges of the M camera, and one of the tricks to developing the speed and immediacy that the Leica is known for.

 

My opinion.

 

--HC

 

and i agree, unlike my budget, with your opinion 100%, cant really afford at this point to have a TE and a separate primer 28mm or a 35mm :), thats why i'd happily at this point sell the TE and go for the new 28 elmarit (when it becomes easily available), and invest in a new piggy bank for 50/1.4 :)

 

thanks

misha

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The official Leica lens hood offering for this lens is the same as that used on the 21 and 24 Elmarits, 12592. It's rather big though so I would think about a circular screw-in hood.

Which one would you use? the 12592 at least has a viewfinder cut-out.

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  • 1 year later...
I am using the original tri-elmar 28-35-50 lens with a new B&W IR/UV filter and an M8. For the first time, I got some flare in my photos. The front element is recessed a bit and a lens shade is not needed when a filter is not attached.

 

Does anyone have the Leica part number for the recommended lens shade for the original tri-elmar ?

 

Thanks.

 

I also use the original tri-elmar 28-35-50 (ver.1) lens with 6 bit coding and a Leica UV/IR filter. I noticed too that it seems to flare a lot. I tried using the lens shade for the 24mm Elmarit but the flaring still persists. Honestly, I'm quite desperate for any possible solutions to this flaring problem. Any advice will be highly appreciated. Thanks

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While on my M8 my MATE has a 55mm screw in hood from heavystars on eBay. It gives better shading than the Leica one. When I put the MATE on my M6 it has to come off as it vignetts a lot when the lens is at f4 in the 28mm setting. The metal shade is also less bulky than the Leica shade. They are cheap, less than $10.

 

New! Metal Wide Angle 55mm Screw-in Lens Hood - eBay (item 140251520170 end time Dec-18-08 06:50:36 PST).

 

A 58mm snap-on cap (he sells them too) fits the hood perfectly and gives you a nice hood and hood cap solution.

 

Here are a few quick shots of the combo on my 24 Elmarit, again it works great on M8, but can't be used when the lens is on the M6.

 

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