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APO Summicron 50/2 ASPH: Central veiling flare / fogging


pajamies

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I don't know if I'll ask for another. I am at a loss for what it is that could be done for this problem. I can't imagine how any amount of proper adjustment would remedy this. Have you stopped your 2 APO 50 lenses down (try f16) and looked at the LCD while shooting a subject with a darkened central zone surrounded by a lighter peripheral field?

 

This testing is not extreme. I can invasion many situations where I would be at f5.6 and higher, shooting a scene exemplified in my images posted above.

 

Rick-Frankly I have not tested it like that. I will have to go back through my EXIF data to see at what f stops various images were taken. I know the Overgaard shots were at 2./2.8 with 3 stop ND. No others were with ND, but some were taken with orange and red filters for MM use.

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Oh ... never seen anything like this with the the APO50 I use with M240 and MM. That lens obviously needs a trip to Solms, either for repair or for replacement.

 

 

 

Yes - but I have never seen the loss of central contrast that you show (actually, I have hardly seen any loss of central contrast at all). And I have been looking for it.

 

 

Could you please do the test I have suggested and show the image here? Many thanks.

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Yes but the whole image is not sharp, nowhere, even at f2.0. So someone in the endcontrol threw it in the wrong basket. I've had it with a Noctilux 1.0 once, I got my money back.

 

Otto - These are downsized to 500 pixels on the long edge. The full size images, especially the f16, is sharp across the whole field. This characteristic of the lens is startling. Without the central flare, the lens is amazing.

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I wanted to be fair. I wanted to be sure that what I posted was not also found in other lenses. I wanted to be sure that I wasn't just "finding" flare because, I could use the LCD to detect what might have always been there in other lenses. So, when I got home today, before it got dark, I took a quick set of pictures to compare my excellent 50mm FLE 1.4 to the APO 50.

 

Given: It was 6pm, overcast, with the same settings for both lenses, f16, infinity focus.

 

Nothing too difficult or unusual in the field of view. It shouldn't be hard to pick the APO out of the pair (it is the first). I really want to keep this lens, but it needs to go back.

 

I will mention that decreasing the exposure will mostly illuminate this, but the camera picked the shutter speed from the advanced matrix setting and the shutter speed was the same for both lenses.

 

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To see if it is less visible at more usual apertures.

 

I am not sure what you mean about more "usual apertures." I shoot probably 90% or more of my shots at f8-f16. How do you get depth of field without using f8-f16? These are the apertures that provide the best sharpness to images that have complex multiple depth layers and are very often the most interesting, to me anyway.

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You won't get the highest level of sharpness at f/16 because of diffraction. I rarely shoot that slow personally but it's just me. Anyway as far as the 50/2 apo is concerned it would be interesting to check if CVF occurs at medium apertures IMHO.

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Well, I hope you are correct but I have my doubts.

May I suggest you take the following photo.

Tape a black sheet about one foot in diameter on the window from the inside.

Then step back enough so that your camera sees a bright and large rim of light around it.

Take a shot at f/16 from the inside against the light and show it here in this thread.

That way one should be easily able to discern whether there is CVF or not.

Good luck. I hope your lens works out fine and my doubts are unjustified.

Thanks.

 

Very good proposal, but the outside should be standardized too.

 

My window offers a look into the green (trees, no golf place), for instance.

Not bad, but the scene cannot be arranged by others.

Jan

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You won't get the highest level of sharpness at f/16 because of diffraction.

 

Sorry LCT but this is just tedious nitpicking. Wanting "the highest level of sharpness" does, I guess, depend on whether you are looking at sharpness as an end in itself (to demonstrate the technical prowess of a lens) or whether you are using it towards a compositional objective.

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Very good proposal, but the outside should be standardized too.

 

My window offers a look into the green (trees, no golf place), for instance.

Not bad, but the scene cannot be arranged by others.

Jan

 

 

Thanks. Great point. I had in mind against the sky, the brighter the better.

Grey sky is fine too, but I would leave out the sun.

I think Rick's picture http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/2493636-post253.html

shows nicely a dark center with a fairly bright surrounding.

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I am not sure what you mean about more "usual apertures." I shoot probably 90% or more of my shots at f8-f16. How do you get depth of field without using f8-f16? These are the apertures that provide the best sharpness to images that have complex multiple depth layers and are very often the most interesting, to me anyway.

 

Rick I got an answer for your problem. You just need to be good with pliers and screw drivers-the metal type.

 

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More examples should you decide to go for the idea of replacing some of your elements.

 

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