Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Is that a scan of a print ? I would prefer to scan prints for posting but the dust can be so bad with prints and a little more manageable scanning negatives.

 

 

This is a negative scan - but the film was very curly and I didn't take much care. As it was just a test roll to see how my summitar handles color, I did no re-scan so far.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

A very bright and hot midday in early Sept a couple of years ago.  The Millau Bridge as seen from the viewpoint at the northern end.  MP, Summaron 35mm, Acros 100.

Keith - LOVE this one.  It seems a little overexposed and wonder whether a little more drama could be gained from dialing down the highlights just a bit in order to bring in more mid-tones.  Could just be my monitor.  In any case, it has great lines and depth.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Annecy the Old town with my Leica MP and Kodak TX400

and 50 Summilux Asp

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Best

Henry

 

 

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Thanks, Christoph.  The portra 800 is ok for this type of shooting.  I shoot it about the same way that I shoot portra 400 pushed 1 stop (by over exposing a bit).  But it is considerably more expensive than the portra 400 and I am coming around to thinking that the 400 is a little better for this type of shooting.  It handles the push really well and is more balanced in its colors (the 800 is warmer).

 

 

Adam, I'm not sure from your description whether you are pushing the film (underexposing and compensating with extra development time) or overexposing and developing at box speed (which isn't a push)? 

Edited by wattsy
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

 

thanks to this thread, I am sorting out my films and files and have to apologize for some recent mistakes in labeling the film stocks !

 

This is actually Fuji Velvia 50  not Provia 160 which does not even exist in 160 !

 

on Fuji TX1 & 30mm Fujinon

 

20869432765_39e1e97176_h.jpg

Praia da Conceção by _JM_, on Flickr

 

BW conversion :

 

20068482044_4ee835e386_h.jpg

Praia do Cachorro, Fernando de Noronha by _JM_, on Flickr

 

Got that one right !

 

Kodak Portra 800 (same lens camera combo):

 

21415115369_52b4442c48_h.jpg

Untitled by _JM_, on Flickr

 

 

 

This is Kodak Portra 160 :

 

21778985922_0d72845c74_h.jpg

Praía do Sancho by _JM_, on Flickr

 

 

Cheers JM

Link to post
Share on other sites

Adam, I'm not sure from your description whether you are pushing the film (underexposing and compensating with extra development time) or overexposing and developing at box speed (which isn't a push)? 

sorry for not being clear.

For shooting in the street, I typically will develop portra 400 at 800 and I will expose at around 400 based on my incident meter reading.  So it is a 1 stop push over box speed.

 

The various subjects in a typical street scene will have varying degrees of light falling on it, including many shadow areas.  Given this lack of consistent luminence (and appreciating the wide latitude of film, which can tolerate over-exposure quite a few stops quite well), the 1'ish stop of over exposure (relative to the 800 rating) helps get to the detail in the areas that have less light falling on them, while not blowing highlights in the areas that would be perfectly exposed at the 800 rating, given the film's exposure latitude).  So if I am in the middle of the sunlit street and I hold my meter perpendicular with the street and it gives a 1/1000 @ f11 reading (based on an 800 ISO rating), I will typically shoot at f8 instead of f11 to account for the fact that the light falling on the white ball of the meter is brighter than many areas in the broader scene (which are under varying degrees of shadow).  It also takes into account that the closer you are to your subject the more light you need.  So if I am 1 meter away (such as in the shot of the commuters that I posted this morning) I will need to open a good stop compared to if I were shooting the same subject 3 meters away.

 

Hope that was clearer; let me know if not...

 

Best,

Adam

Edited by A miller
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

sorry for not being clear.

For shooting in the street, I typically will develop portra 400 at 800 and I will expose at around 400 based on my incident meter reading. So it is a 1 stop push over box speed.

 

The various subjects in a typical street scene will have varying degrees of light falling on it, including many shadow areas. Given this lack of consistent luminence (and appreciating the wide latitude of film, which can tolerate over-exposure quite a few stops quite well), the 1'ish stop of over exposure (relative to the 800 rating) helps get to the detail in the areas that have less light falling on them, while not blowing highlights in the areas that would be perfectly exposed at the 800 rating, given the film's exposure latitude). So if I am in the middle of the sunlit street and I hold my meter perpendicular with the street and it gives a 1/1000 @ f11 reading (based on an 800 ISO rating), I will typically shoot at f8 instead of f11 to account for the fact that the light falling on the white ball of the meter is brighter than many areas in the broader scene (which are under varying degrees of shadow). It also takes into account that the closer you are to your subject the more light you need. So if I am 1 meter away (such as in the shot of the commuters that I posted this morning) I will need to open a good stop compared to if I were shooting the same subject 3 meters away.

 

Hope that was clearer; let me know if not...

 

Best,

Adam

Am I being daft or am I just very tired from work, isn't that a 2 stop difference
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

well, let's see...

If I set the meter to 800 and indicated an exposure of 1/1000 at f11

If I changed the ISO to 400 instead of 800 and pushed the button, I would get 1/1000 at f8

So I am essentially exposing at box speed but developing at 800 (N+1)

No?

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

well, let's see...

If I set the meter to 800 and indicated an exposure of 1/1000 at f11

If I changed the ISO to 400 instead of 800 and pushed the button, I would get 1/1000 at f8

So I am essentially exposing at box speed but developing at 800 (N+1)

No?

Would you get similar results if you metered at 200 and developed at 400, I've never developed colour film apart from E6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Would you get similar results if you metered at 200 and developed at 400, I've never developed colour film apart from E6

not exactly b/c your way costs you a stop of light.

Also, "my way" (which obviously by no means is my way) pops the highlights a bit (like "expanding" the film of a full stop)

But I do it for the extra stop (which increases the DOF which is helpful for zone focusing).

 

Your way is the typical way you would use portra for controlled settings such as portraits where you don't need the extra speed.  You meter on the face at close range and then open up a stop.

Edited by A miller
Link to post
Share on other sites

Keith - LOVE this one.  It seems a little overexposed and wonder whether a little more drama could be gained from dialing down the highlights just a bit in order to bring in more mid-tones.  Could just be my monitor.  In any case, it has great lines and depth.

Thanks Adam.  I can see where you are coming from. I suppose I still have the visual memory of the searingly bright sunshine on a hot, cloudless early Sept day in southern France and wished to retain that feel of eye-squintingly bright white concrete etc.  In light (!) of your feedback I have darkened the mid and darker tones/shadows to give more depth, leaving the lighter tones untouched (except for the grass & gravel in the foreground).  Revised image below.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by Keith (M)
  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Adam.  I can see where you are coming from. I suppose I still have the visual memory of the searingly bright sunshine on a hot, cloudless early Sept day in southern France and wished to retain that feel of eye-squintingly bright white concrete etc.  In light (!) of your feedback I have darkened the mid and darker tones/shadows to give more depth, leaving the lighter tones untouched (except for the grass & gravel in the foreground).  Revised image below.

YES, much better.  I would even dial down the highlights more in the white bush that is in the immediate foreground to bring the eye more immedaitely to and along the bridge

Great image...

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

"Anonymous New Yorker"

Wall Street

M-A, 28mm summaron, Portra 400

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 16
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Adam.  I can see where you are coming from. I suppose I still have the visual memory of the searingly bright sunshine on a hot, cloudless early Sept day in southern France and wished to retain that feel of eye-squintingly bright white concrete etc.  In light (!) of your feedback I have darkened the mid and darker tones/shadows to give more depth, leaving the lighter tones untouched (except for the grass & gravel in the foreground).  Revised image below.

 

 

It was not until Keith made the changes and I compared them in tabs I noticed the difference Adam had spotted and, it is well worth the additional work.

A brilliant photograph, with the shadow emphasising the bright sunshine and time of day.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Llandulas groyne, near England.

Hasselblad 500cm with Fuji Acros developed in Ilford DDX and scanned using Epson V700.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

 

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...