Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Plaubel Makina 670 & Kodak Gold .
 
For some reason I couldn't upload a 2MB file from my laptop so had to load this low quality version from phone.  [Magenta tint is not there in the full quality].   

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by grahamc
  • Like 17
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot @John Robinson. I am sure they are fantastic.

The rest of the roll was fully fine. I really like this Santa Rae 1000 film. It is not forgiving on the highlights at all, but when it works it really is beautiful (to me).

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

iiii, summicron 50v1, Santa Rae 1000 (in dd-x)

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 1/7/2024 at 12:14 AM, Steve Ricoh said:

There’s a few to choose from, but personally I like the implementation on the Nikon SLRs, such as the FM2n, FM3A and the F100 (have all three). The latter has an electric wind/rewind which benefits multi exposure being able to hold the camera still. 
II’m curious to know why Leica chose not to include the function on the M and its predecessor. Is it because serious photographers don’t go near multiple exposures.

You should be able to do a multiple exposure with any Barnack Leica that has a dot on the shutter release. Before winding on for the next shot, put the mechanism into reverse, rewind the film watching the dot on the shutter release and once it has gone a full circle, you put the mechanism into advance, wind on, and take the shot. This is the same procedure for the Nikon F, which has essentially the same shutter as a Barnack Leica except for the Titanium shutter curtain and a few other small changes. It's surprising that it works and I've tested it several times on the Nikon. I guess when Leica went to the M and changed the shutter release the facility was lost. You can still guess how far back to rewind the M and some people do.

  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, williamj said:

You should be able to do a multiple exposure with any Barnack Leica that has a dot on the shutter release. Before winding on for the next shot, put the mechanism into reverse, rewind the film watching the dot on the shutter release and once it has gone a full circle, you put the mechanism into advance, wind on, and take the shot. This is the same procedure for the Nikon F, which has essentially the same shutter as a Barnack Leica except for the Titanium shutter curtain and a few other small changes. It's surprising that it works and I've tested it several times on the Nikon. I guess when Leica went to the M and changed the shutter release the facility was lost. You can still guess how far back to rewind the M and some people do.

I thought the double exposure method with a screw Leica was to take the first shot then hold down the shutter release while winding up the shutter  by turning the shutter speed dial against its spring loading, then take your finger off the shutter release which should lock it ready to be fired again. No need to move the film by winding it back. In fact once you have moved the advance/rewind lever back and forward again the film will be out of position when you next wind the shutter in the normal way as the gearing will probably move more or less than one exact frame.

Edited by Pyrogallol
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

ruches   [m4, fp4]

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Pyrogallol said:

I thought the double exposure method with a screw Leica was to take the first shot then hold down the shutter release while winding up the shutter  by turning the shutter speed dial against its spring loading, then take your finger off the shutter release which should lock it ready to be fired again. No need to move the film by winding it back. In fact once you have moved the advance/rewind lever back and forward again the film will be out of position when you next wind the shutter in the normal way as the gearing will probably move more or less than one.  exact frame.

The procedure Williamj described is correct, except that the dot on the shutter release button needs to be go just a little more than one complete turn for it to work reliably. The second exposure will be precisely aligned with the first because the eighth tooth of the sprocket always stops at the exact same place. As williamj said, this works for the Nikon F too. I remember that I once tried the procedure Pyrogallol described but I don't remember what went wrong. I do know that I never tried it again. 

Edited by Doug A
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

11 hours ago, John Robinson said:

There are pros and cons for Leica R-series cameras.  The pros are the opportunity to use R-series Elmarits, Summicrons, Summilux, Vario-Elmar etc on film.  The cons are that the cameras can no longer by repaired by Leica (third-party repairers may be available) but they are built like tanks and surprisingly cheap to purchase.  The other pro is that the lenses are superb when attached to the Leica L-Mount digital cameras using the Leica R-Adapter L which can even read the ROM in the lens if it has one (other adapters are also available).

I know you use Nikon so what about this YouTube video about converting R mount lenses to F mount?

https://youtu.be/OTKH5mXeudw?si=lRQb8HjI3tUcxNWk

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

found on a lost holiday roll... 

Sometimes they come in twins... or : the tyranny of symmetry

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Rollei GX 2,8 Planar, P400

  • Like 17
Link to post
Share on other sites

Bulb
MP APO 50 w/polarizer ADOX Mission

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Aryel said:

Thanks a lot @Pyrogallol, @williamj, @Doug A! Will try the procedure putting the camera in reverse and observing the dot.

Am I right to think that this would work the same by drawing a small mark on a Barnack that has no dot? (I need to finish a roll in my Leica II). 


Many thanks 🤩 

 

Yes, any sort of mark that lets you clearly see that the shutter release button has rotated one complete turn plus a little bit more will work fine. (By a little bit more I mean something like an eighth of a turn extra.)

Sadly I have to do this more often than I would like when I find I have left the lens cap on. 😀

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
  • Haha 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

vor 3 Stunden schrieb Ernest:

Bulb
MP APO 50 w/polarizer ADOX Mission

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

into the deep blue... I like the transition from the happy light blue to the dark, enigmatic, near black blue. The polarizer seems to add  something special to the colors, particularly the blues. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Blad 500 c/m 100mm Velvia 50 in Tetenal e-6

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by bags27
  • Like 10
Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, 250swb said:

I know you use Nikon so what about this YouTube video about converting R mount lenses to F mount?

Realise this discussion might be better on the R-Series thread in the forum.

I have used Leitax adapters to put R-Series lenses onto Nikon cameras with some excellent results.  The image below was taken with an Elmarit-R 35mm (Typ II) on Nikon F (non-photomic), Ilford XP2.  If you don't want to go down the Leica R-Series camera rabbit hole, Nikon is the next-best way to shoot film with R lenses.  It's easier not to faff around with stop-down metering but it that's important, then one of the Nikons with Aperture-priority auto-exposure helps (e.g. the EL).  The best Leitax adapter has a lever to open up the aperture for focusing.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by John Robinson
  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hollywood Blvd October 2023

Ilford HP5+ | Leica M6 | Summicron 35mm

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 10
Link to post
Share on other sites

A light intrusion.   [m6, hp5]

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by Suede
image loaded twice in error
  • Like 17
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...