Favourite medium format?......

[philipus]

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Erl, Andy, thanks for your very helpful insights.

 

I should perhaps have made it clearer that I would bring it only for "fun". It wouldn't be the main camera if I bring it. Incidentally I shoot only film and won't buy or be able to rent a digital M for this. I think we might have access to a 5D of some description as well, a camera model I used to own (mk2) and know well.

 

For the M I'll have the 35 and 50 Summiluxes and the 90 Elmarit-M. For the EOS cameras I have the 200/2.8 and a few other lenses (including a 17-40 and the 100 macro). I expect to be shooting ISO 400 films pushed one stop and meter for brighter areas, such as faces. Also since the EOS is quite loud I'll be choosing camera depending on where I am in the venue. The spot metering of the EOS will come in handy methinks.

 

Back to the 203. I am going to add a PM5 to simplify eye-level shooting. But I'm curious about a good (motorized or non-motorized) grip - thoughts on that?

 

I've also read that the 180 is supposed to be a very good lens but as I am curious about the 150 and its faster aperture I am wondering if I shouldn't aim for the 250 T-T instead (F, not FE).

 

br

Philip

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[erl]

Philip,

I'm not well at present so not thinking clearly. However, re the PM5, I can't remember, is that a true eye level prism? If it is, I would counsel you against it. Personal preference speaking here. Because of the ergonomics, weight, etc of the Blad, a 45 Deg prism finder, IMO, is infinitely superior. The combo just sits more easily and less tiringly in the shooting position.

 

Another important consideration is that on the 203FE the viewing screen has a small prism on the ground glass to accommodate the internal meter readout. Some prism finders will not fit because of this IIRC. Check it out.

[philipus]

I am sorry to hear you are not well at the moment, Erl, and hope you'll recover speedily.

 

The PM-5 is an unmetered 45-degree finder. Seeing the various 90-degree finders I felt instinctively that it would be uncomfortable to hold the camera that high.

 

You're entirely correct - the PM-5 (provided it has the two blue lines) will work with the 200 series cameras since it has a cut-out for the viewfinder display.

 

Br

Philip

[pico]

[...] I can work in fast-moving settings with the Hasselblad - so long as it is the only camera I'm carrying, so I can get into its rhythm of holding, framing, winding - and stay there. Not to mention the weight.

 

In my case, I need three or four backs. I hate fumbling around.

[Sandokan]

Philip,

 

The lens that should be on your Lust-List is the 110mm f2 FE Planar.

REVIEW - HASSELBLAD 110mm F2 PLANAR FE - OVERVIEW

Flatfour had one and I had to get my own.

 

I cannot remember the maths but the depth of field is similar to the f0.95 Noctilux.

 

The other lens to own is the 120mm macro - for close focusing for head and shoulder shots, if portraiture is your game.

 

For your event - just remember, if you take out the 203FE, you will have to put down the others and the shooting style is so different that you have to put yourself into a completely different mind set. I recommend a motor winder too, even if just 1fps, it is less interruptive than cranking on.

 

The PE5 is also a change of mind set compared to the WLF. Switching between the two is funny to watch - I have hit myself in the face trying to get the WLF upto my eye and stared at the top of the PE5 wondering why the image doesnt appear and focus.

[pico]

Philip,

 

The lens that should be on your Lust-List is the 110mm f2 FE Planar.

REVIEW - HASSELBLAD 110mm F2 PLANAR FE - OVERVIEW

Flatfour had one and I had to get my own.

 

I cannot remember the maths but the depth of field is similar to the f0.95 Noctilux. [...]

 

Well, that is very interesting! I will not dive into the metrics at this moment, but even if the claim is close to true my interest is up. Thanks for the nudge.

 

Just a thought - we have so many super designed, well engineered and precision made lenses today that break the boundary of old technology that I look backwards to find more interesting rendering.

 

Just saying, as is said.

[Sandokan]

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Well, that is very interesting! I will not dive into the metrics at this moment, but even if the claim is close to true my interest is up. Thanks for the nudge.

 

Just a thought - we have so many super designed, well engineered and precision made lenses today that break the boundary of old technology that I look backwards to find more interesting rendering.

 

Just saying, as is said.

 

Hi,

 

I agree - one of my favourite lenses is a Sonnar from 1936. The single coated, lens with a smooth buttery soft image is just perfect for portraits.

 

I did a quick check and here are the DoF results:-

110/2 on 6x6 = 0.6 inches

 

50/0.95 on full frame = 0.8 inches

[erl]

Hi,

 

I agree - one of my favourite lenses is a Sonnar from 1936. The single coated, lens with a smooth buttery soft image is just perfect for portraits.

 

I did a quick check and here are the DoF results:-

110/2 on 6x6 = 0.6 inches

 

50/0.95 on full frame = 0.8 inches

In practice, I find the 110/2.0 Planar (I have the old F version) is difficult (DOF very narrow) at f2, but at 2.8 onwards, a great lens.

[philipus]

Philip,

 

The lens that should be on your Lust-List is the 110mm f2 FE Planar.

REVIEW - HASSELBLAD 110mm F2 PLANAR FE - OVERVIEW

Flatfour had one and I had to get my own.

 

I cannot remember the maths but the depth of field is similar to the f0.95 Noctilux.

 

The other lens to own is the 120mm macro - for close focusing for head and shoulder shots, if portraiture is your game.

 

For your event - just remember, if you take out the 203FE, you will have to put down the others and the shooting style is so different that you have to put yourself into a completely different mind set. I recommend a motor winder too, even if just 1fps, it is less interruptive than cranking on.

 

The PE5 is also a change of mind set compared to the WLF. Switching between the two is funny to watch - I have hit myself in the face trying to get the WLF upto my eye and stared at the top of the PE5 wondering why the image doesnt appear and focus.

 

 

Thank you Ravi. I have read about that lens and am attracted to the wide aperture combined with the focal length. I didn't know there are five versions though. It seems these days one can find F lenses for reasonable money. Am I right in believing that they will work in AE with the 203fe or are FE or CFE lenses needed for that?

 

Switching between systems isn't ideal and I'll think twice before I do (and thanks for the humorous description of the finder confusion [emoji4]). For now it looks like I'll be shooting the 5D2 with an assortment of lenses plus the 1N and TTL as backup/extra. The conference spans two days and am evening though so I may have time to try things out.

 

BTW have you used the 150/2.8 by any chance?

 

Br

Philip

[erl]

Philip, the 110/2.0 F will work in all settings on the 203FE, but you must stop down for metering. Mostly I use mine in 'A' mode ie. aperture priority mode. If used in 'D' Differential mode, you only need to stop down once for metering and then open up again.

 

In reality it is very to stop down and leave it there for focussing, unless you really want a small aperture. Even down to 5.6 it is easy to focus without opening up.

[philipus]

Thank you for the explanation, Erl. That seems like an easy way to do it.

 

Well, here's pictorial proof that the camera has arrived. I haven't shot one since the late 80s when I borrowed a 500C from the camera shop where I worked. For such a boxy profile, it feels great in the hand.

 

Btw, any suggestions for a good strap?

 

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[C-Lux 2]

[pico]

Btw, any suggestions for a good strap?

 

Actually, yes. On the 'bay are two interesting one and two-inch wide straps. Oh, and a short one-hand strap made by Hasselblad mainly for the SWC. I am dearly tempted to try the wides. FWIW they use the same attachment as a Rollei and the Plaubel Veriwide.

 

Just for the heck of it here are two links to show a very unusual, probably rare, Linhof handgrip that works very nicely with the 500c.

 

http://www.digoliardi.net/unusual-linhof-grip-2.jpg

http://www.digoliardi.net/unusual-linhof-grip-1.jpg

 

I got it so long ago that I don't remember where it came from. (You can tell it was long ago because I had a left thumb that bent.)

[Sandokan]

...

BTW have you used the 150/2.8 by any chance?

 

Br

Philip

 

Hi Philip,

 

Yes I have the FE version on a 2003 FCW and I like it, but a 503Cx with 120 Macro took its place - and I loved that lens for its close focus ability. For some reason I couldnt mount my V lenses on the 2003. In the end I gave up. The 150 was OK but I cannot remember any special photos I got with it compared to the 110. Thinking about it ... it has been 2 years since I used either Hassy. What a silly man I am. I will get them out and take them out for a walk in a couple of weeks after ski vacations. I also have the 50/2.8 and that is interesting to use. It is when you really notice while framing that the square format is not the same as the 3:2 format. On the one hand the horizontal is often OK, but there is too much empty space vertically. I use my square format cameras for people photos and street shooting (for their unobtrusiveness - and if people do notice, they think it is quaint).

 

For a strap I use the OpTech Classic. They have connectors for the Hassy (Type A) and the stretch in the neoprene helps make it more comfortable. I wear mine across the shoulder as on the neck gets tiring more quickly. You can also unclip it and wrap the webbing around your left wrist for carrying ready to use.

 

For metering I either use the iPhone or an incident meter. For the cost per negative, I prefer to know exactly what I am exposing for.

 

Hope that helps.

[erl]

Ravi,

I also have the 2003FCW along with my 203FE. The big difference is that the FCW has a titanium shutter curtain, very noisy, whereas the 203FE has a cloth curtain which is quieter but still not silent.

 

Paul,

I recommend two straps.1. The short single handed strap that Pico mentioned. Very convenient for walk around shooting and constantly ready.

2. The longer and very sturdy shoulder strap which is good for extended walking and can stay on the shoulder (good grip) or on the other shoulder and across your body. Slightly slower to respond to shooting moment.

 

Both are by Hasselblad. Later in ther day I will try to find time to post pics for your info.

 

I had grips similar to the linked pics that Pico posted, but did not like them because I suspected they introduced a rotational movement when releasing the shutter.

[pico]

[...] I had grips similar to the linked pics that Pico posted, but did not like them because I suspected they introduced a rotational movement when releasing the shutter.

 

Actually my grip tripod mount is tilted right just enough to put the camera level while the left hand is naturally tilted slightly left. It is so good I am thinking of cloning it.

.

[pico]

[...[ For a strap I use the OpTech Classic

 

Funny, but I have the same for one of the Hasselblads. I confused their elastic compliance with weakness, but they remain strong and perfectly comfortable. Good choice.

.

[erl]

Actually my grip tripod mount is tilted right just enough to put the camera level while the left hand is naturally tilted slightly left. It is so good I am thinking of cloning it.

.

Ah! horses for course.

My theory, sort of born out in practice (life does have other variables) is that acting as a lever, the grip centered around my fist, gives any movement of my hand a magnified effect to the camera because it sits out like a lever from my hand. The longer the lever, the greater the movement.

 

But if you can make it work, well done.

[erl]

Philip, here are some pics to illustrate the configuration I work with.

Features are the 45 Deg finder (magic), short and long hand and neck straps and the winder replacing the hand crank (very useful for faster shooting).

 

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[philipus]

Thank you Erl. That looks like a truly great set up. I think that's the finder I am looking to get. I've seen those straps on the online auction site so I will try to buy them.

 

Speaking of sound - I tried the mirror pre-release (lock-up) and it makes the operation a lot more quiet.

 

Btw one dealer I spoke with said that the winder, as useful as it is, has the slight drawback that it wears out the gears more than the hand-crank. Not sure if that is a relevant concern for an amateur photographer though.

 

br

Philip

 

Ps. I should apologise for having monopolised this thread for a while; I am very grateful for all the information. Now I'm off to shoot

[erl]

Philip, I don't know what the dealers experience is, but I got the 1st 203FE to ever come to the Southern hemisphere. That would be 20+ years ago. I really worked that camera solidly with the winder. That plus the one I now have never have faltered wrt to winding. These days I mainly use the crank for portability, but the winder is still very useful at times.