}{B Posted June 21, 2012 Share #1 Posted June 21, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) After a gap of ten years or so I'm trying my hand at processing my own Black and White film. I've got a Jobo daylight developing tank and I'm using Ilford chemicals - Ilfosol 3 developer, Ilford stop bath and rapid fixer. So far I've processed two rolls of Ilford Delta 100 ( I'm currently waiting for the second film to dry) with three more still to use but I do have an odd roll of Kodak Tri X. I'm wondering if I can process the Tri X using the Ilfosol 3? This film is not mentioned in the Ilford facts sheet. Has anyone tried this and if successful what development time, agitation etc was used? I've done a google search and come up with a time of 7 min 30sec at 20degC with agitation for 30sec at the start then 10 sec every minute. No fixing time was mentioned. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 21, 2012 Posted June 21, 2012 Hi }{B, Take a look here Kodak Tri X and Ilford chemicals. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
richam Posted June 21, 2012 Share #2 Posted June 21, 2012 I always got good results by following the The Massive Dev Chart. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted June 21, 2012 Share #3 Posted June 21, 2012 I believe it is listed as Kodak 400 TX with different times for different ISO's. I have used it using those development times and all was well. According to the sheet your times are correct. https://www.amplis.com/evolve/Products/Media/fs%5CIlford%5CIfosol3.pdf. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
}{B Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share #4 Posted June 21, 2012 I believe it is listed as Kodak 400 TX with different times for different ISO's. I have used it using those development times and all was well. According to the sheet your times are correct. https://www.amplis.com/evolve/Products/Media/fs%5CIlford%5CIfosol3.pdf. Thanks for the link. I'd run off a copy of the facts sheet for the older Ilfosol S and when I realised it was not altogether the same for Ilfosol 3 I just ran off the first few pages of IL3 and missed the page that referred to Tri X. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted June 21, 2012 Share #5 Posted June 21, 2012 Massive development sheet always gives me massively overdeveloped negs. The manufactures data from Kodak and Ilford are spot on for a diffusion enlarger, -10% for condenser or scanning in my darkroom with fresh chemicals. Buy a roll of Tri x and find the correct time ,then do the real roll. Or better yet, some D76 and use Kodak data. The worst thing you can do is bounce film to film, developer to developer. Premixed developers age from date of manufacture. Faster in a partial bottle. Unless you know the history of your bottle, you don`t KNOW what state it is in. Ilford hides the code in the data stamped on the bottle and paper package and without knowing the code, you can not read it. This is so dealers can sell off old stock because Ilford tried to fix it one time before. I will not use premade developers for this reason. And I will not divulge how to read the code. Bouncing around will give you grief because you never get to fine tune your system to your agitation, water supply, technique, and other variables. Then you go on to a new film with same results. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted June 21, 2012 Share #6 Posted June 21, 2012 Ilfosol-3 is meant for the slower and medium speed films. It's based on Ascorbic Acid so the lifetime is not very good. The previous version Ilfosol-S was even very bad in storage and caused many blank films in amateur use. The choice of a film-developer combination is very personal. Some people like Tri-X 400 and the classical D76/ID11 combination, some people have preference for HC-110 or even some like it in Rodinal which is in fact also a developer for slow- and medium speed films (iso 25-200) due to the grain. The data on Digital Truth is not too bad however some failures have come in during a few years. It's a starting point, not a 100% optimum development. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stack62 Posted June 22, 2012 Share #7 Posted June 22, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) I Love Tri-X in ID-11 stock or 1:1 Plus-X and Delta 400 are great in ID-11 as well You might want to give it a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
}{B Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share #8 Posted June 22, 2012 Thanks for all the replies. At the moment I'm just pleased that I'm getting an image, I've no intention of setting up a full darkroom as I'm happy to scan the negatives. The shop I buy from only stocks Ilford products and they do have ID-11 it just seemed simpler, but not as cost effective, to buy the liquid chemicals and discard them as they were used. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted June 22, 2012 Share #9 Posted June 22, 2012 This chap's seem ok: Lisa #2 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeswe Posted June 22, 2012 Share #10 Posted June 22, 2012 This chap's seem ok:Lisa #2 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Pete The example is from a medium format negative, so the combo might still be to grainy for Tri-X in 35mm (I am just guessing). Of course the best is always to give it a try. The Ilford data sheet lists times for Trix ("TX400") in Ilfosol 3, so it should not be a problem to find a starting point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
}{B Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share #11 Posted June 22, 2012 I've only ever used one roll of Tri X previously and I wasn't too impressed with its look. grainy, when I got it back from processing. I've got one roll left and I may as well develop it myself just to see if it looks any different. Now if it will only stop raining! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtoh Posted June 26, 2012 Share #12 Posted June 26, 2012 I've only ever used one roll of Tri X previously and I wasn't too impressed with its look. grainy, when I got it back from processing. I've got one roll left and I may as well develop it myself just to see if it looks any different. Now if it will only stop raining! My first impression with the TRI X was a tad too grainy, oddly I find it more pleasing now as I shoot with the TRI X more these days. I usually add 10-15 sec to the massive dev chart, just a habit. Try a few more rolls if you can. Regards, Daryl http://dtohphoto.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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