Hans Roggen Posted March 6, 2007 Share #21 Â Posted March 6, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I can't help being curious about the numerous internal procedures that were improved and so-called bug-fixes implemented in this firmware. Â Can anyone shine a light on that? Â Hans Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 6, 2007 Posted March 6, 2007 Hi Hans Roggen, Take a look here New Firmware 1.092 thoughts/ Read instructions. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
robsteve Posted March 6, 2007 Share #22 Â Posted March 6, 2007 Problem with the reference pixels being corrupted by a bright light at the image border has not been fixed. They read my suggestion in pristine German and binned it. Â Â Mark: Â The problem is not the camera, but the shade is not installed on your lamp correctly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
heninger Posted March 6, 2007 Share #23 Â Posted March 6, 2007 I would have expected that in order to see b/w in the review that you would have to set the M8 to dng + jpg. Â You didn't used to have to do this. I'm not about to waste space on my card to shoot DNG+JPG when I can easily get jpegs out of Lightroom if I want them. Â IMHO, I think the DNG+Jpeg workflow is a bit silly and wastes card space. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted March 6, 2007 Share #24  Posted March 6, 2007 You didn't used to have to do this. I'm not about to waste space on my card to shoot DNG+JPG when I can easily get jpegs out of Lightroom if I want them. IMHO, I think the DNG+Jpeg workflow is a bit silly and wastes card space.  Depends, actually on how many files you shoot and how fast you want to see them / post them for proofing.  RAW + JPG lets me very quickly cull many shots, and it lets me post proofs very, very quickly. Current RAW converters, including LR, are really slow with previewing DNGs (SilkyPix is the best in this regard; it's still too slow).  More importantly, maybe, chimping feels much faster with a JPEG available. A small JPEG does seem to limit the zoom in function so perhaps people should try it with different JPEG levels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 6, 2007 Share #25 Â Posted March 6, 2007 If you shoot for black and white it is very practical that the LCD shows a B&W jpeg. I have that in my user3 function. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandymc Posted March 6, 2007 Share #26 Â Posted March 6, 2007 Mark, Â Eowww - did it take much playing around to get the green streak? I mean is now at least more difficult to provoke that kind of behavior? Â Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted March 6, 2007 Share #27 Â Posted March 6, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Mark okay obviously overexposed but what are the results when you stop down is it there when it underexposes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstotler Posted March 6, 2007 Share #28 Â Posted March 6, 2007 (1) I like the new ISO and shutter speed reading in the black bar. Very useful--I dislike pressing "SET" to look up my ISO speed. (Additional feature request? White balance icon displays in the black bar, also?) Â (2) The shutter does sound different. I think I like it better--it's more "clicky" when it fires but not really louder that I can notice. Â (3) The battery display still doesn't come on for me after I start up the camera until I depress the shutter to the first position. (This may be a feature but it makes sense to me that the LCD fires up right away when the camera switches on without touching anything else. The first two things after switching on that I want to know are: how full is my battery? and how many shots do I have left?) Â (3A) Do we have a confirmation (wasn't explicitly mentioned in the PDF) that the battery indicator has been tweaked to be more accurate? Â (4) I didn't notice a real improvement in AWB, but I'm not testing side-by-side with 1.09, so I can't say much other than that. Â Thanks, Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
finkaudio Posted March 6, 2007 Share #29  Posted March 6, 2007 My cameras wake up on switching on without touching any button. It has been that way ever since I had them, also in 1.06 and 1.09. :confused:   Hi,  I have a delay before I can get pictures with the play button that I could track down to the SD card with 4G I'm using. If you look at the top display, it takes a short while before the no. changes from 0 to the no. of remaining shots. With my 4G it takes longer, my SanDisk come up after a blink. Maybe that's the effect Bill got. Bill, do you have a larger, somewhat slower SD card?  Best regards  Karl-Heinz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen.s1 Posted March 6, 2007 Share #30 Â Posted March 6, 2007 Shutter sound is shorter. Volume same. I prefer the new sound. Suspect the shutter is being reset quicker. Â Auto WB is cooler (bluer) than previous. But, it seems to handle tungsten light much better. No filters here yet. Â The black band is great. How I hated that white band. Other corrections of that ilk are for the better AFAIC. Â Leica, back to the drawing board with your Auto WB. While I have someone's eye/ear let's improve the noise at higher ISOs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanJW Posted March 6, 2007 Share #31 Â Posted March 6, 2007 "(1) I like the new ISO and shutter speed reading in the black bar. Very useful--I dislike pressing "SET" to look up my ISO speed. (Additional feature request? White balance icon displays in the black bar, also?)" Â YES, I agree WB in the bar would be great. I really like having the ISO as I am forgetful sometimes --- but the lapses run to WB also and you don't know until the shot comes up all blue or red in the LCD. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
holgerf Posted March 6, 2007 Share #32  Posted March 6, 2007 AWB is still an ugly issue. This still happened with DNG:  • I shot sequently three times the same subject, using all ISO settings • so I got 15 shots • I changed nothin else than ISO setting leading to different shutter speed  Result:  (1) AWB is fine with ISO 160, 1250, 2500 (2) AWB with ugly blue cast with ISO 320 and 640   Sample (1) ISO 160, 1250, 2500: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!  Sample (2) ISO 320, 640:  Any idea why?  Best Holger Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!  Sample (2) ISO 320, 640:  Any idea why?  Best Holger ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/17992-new-firmware-1092-thoughts-read-instructions/?do=findComment&comment=191749'>More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted March 6, 2007 Share #33  Posted March 6, 2007 Hi, I have a delay before I can get pictures with the play button that I could track down to the SD card with 4G I'm using. If you look at the top display, it takes a short while before the no. changes from 0 to the no. of remaining shots. With my 4G it takes longer, my SanDisk come up after a blink. Maybe that's the effect Bill got. Bill, do you have a larger, somewhat slower SD card?  Best regards  Karl-Heinz   Bigger cards take longer because it reads the data on the card. Also use fast cards. This is your film folks don't by cheap stuff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chetccox Posted March 6, 2007 Share #34 Â Posted March 6, 2007 When I turn on my M8 with the new firmware the red light blinks once immediately and the battery and shot indicator comes on immediately after that. The buttons all work right away without touching the shutter button. I am using a transcend 4gb card. I don't notice any difference in the shutter noise but only have one camera so a comparison is difficult. I do know for sure that the camera will now wake from sleep and the first picture is normal instead of the rainbow vertical color lines. I see no change in the AWB (still horrible). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marknorton Posted March 6, 2007 Share #35 Â Posted March 6, 2007 Guy, yes, of course the lamp is over exposed, but my spotmeter shows this image has levels from EV 6.3 to 18.7 so the DR is going to be blown however you expose it. If you stop down, the light is correctly exposed, but the background is hopelessly under-exposed. Â In the real world, we've seen examples where the sun, car headlamps or glare off glass or water just outside the image edge bleeds through the masking around the sensor and upset the black reference for one or more half rows in the image. Â I suggested a method to Leica how they could fix this in firmware but apparently not yet, if ever. Â All in all, I'm a bit underwhelmed by V1.092. If this is all Leica's collective firmware development effort can produce in more than two months, we're in for a long haul... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marknorton Posted March 6, 2007 Share #36 Â Posted March 6, 2007 (1) I like the new ISO and shutter speed reading in the black bar. Very useful--I dislike pressing "SET" to look up my ISO speed. (Additional feature request? White balance icon displays in the black bar, also?) Â The information displayed is for the current picture being reviewed, not the current settings of the camera. It would be nice if there was a summary line on the display when in shooting mode, but this would require the backlight to be on all the time which would kill the battery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted March 6, 2007 Share #37 Â Posted March 6, 2007 Well your also asking a sensor to handle a 12 stop or more range too, now i am not so sure any sensor can do that. Sensors will never match what our eyes can handle . There is a point of no return too. But it still is something for them to look at no doubt. I wonder if we are expecting too much sometimes. In normal situations i have never seen this after about 11,000 shots. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 6, 2007 Share #38  Posted March 6, 2007 Guy, yes, of course the lamp is over exposed, but my spotmeter shows this image has levels from EV 6.3 to 18.7 so the DR is going to be blown however you expose it. If you stop down, the light is correctly exposed, but the background is hopelessly under-exposed. In the real world, we've seen examples where the sun, car headlamps or glare off glass or water just outside the image edge bleeds through the masking around the sensor and upset the black reference for one or more half rows in the image.  I suggested a method to Leica how they could fix this in firmware but apparently not yet, if ever. All in all, I'm a bit underwhelmed by V1.092. If this is all Leica's collective firmware development effort can produce in more than two months, we're in for a long haul... It is better to recover underexposed shadows than to have overexposed highlights. The M8 seems to be better than most at shadow detail. And wouldn't a hardware fix on cameras that show this effect be more elegant than tweaking the firmware to correct something that should not be there in the first place? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eronald Posted March 6, 2007 Share #39  Posted March 6, 2007 Mark interesting Edmund called me about that and said the noise settled down onhis camera but that is certainly worth asking a question about. I honestly have not noticed it but that is me   It settled down, yes, because I reverted to firmware 1.09.  Edmund Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marknorton Posted March 6, 2007 Share #40 Â Posted March 6, 2007 Guy, this is the same recreate scenario for the problem Farrukh saw as he successively moved a lamp off the edge of the frame and I think you saw the same with the halogens in your kitchen. Nothing more. Â I don't expect the camera to render detail here. The highlights are blown, obviously, but the blooming is well controlled within the image area. I do expect the bright light not to mess up the image though. It's the old problem of the pixel masking not being completely opaque. reproduced with your kitchen halogens. Nothing more.I don't expect the sensor to render detail in the over-exposed area but I just expect it to be well controlled. Â If Bill took some of his ballet shots and caught a spot light at the edge, he'd get precisely the same effect. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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