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Leica Green GGr filter


Stealth3kpl

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Used on my M7 the meter shows it has a one stop filter factor. I've used this type a lot for many years and always worked allowing for a one stop reduction in light but then I use XP2 which has great exposure latitude.

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but I am interested how it works:D:D

 

Almost regret starting my Yellow filter thread but now that it is closed maybe we can restart here.

 

I shall state that..

1.A yellow or Green filter makes the said color lighter on the final positive print.

2.This is a result of the filter allowing more of the yellow or green color through the filter than other colors, resulting in a higher (longer) exposure.

3.The complimentary colors receive less exposure this rendering them dark.(up to half the exposure)

 

make sense?

 

great;);)

 

to the question I guess the green filter is similar to the yellow i.e 1 stop.

 

best

andy

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The way to tell is to photograph a grey card w/o filter, then add filter and bracket +1, +1.5. & +2. Pick the frame were the density is the same as without.

 

Your enlarging meter will help.

 

BTL camera meters are not necessarily accurate, decent for yellows, poor for blues and higher density filters.

 

Do the grey card shot in the same color temp light as you will use for the pictures.

 

Do not bracket a landscape because the correction will negate the purpose. Use a grey card or white card underexposed.

 

Once you know the proper correction, then do a meter reading with the camera and apply fudge factor to get it to give you correct exposure with the filter. Or just open or close from the camera reading which may turn out to be correct, but not necessarily.

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but I am interested how it works:D:D

 

Almost regret starting my Yellow filter thread but now that it is closed maybe we can restart here.

 

"I used a green filter (Wratten No.58), which better defined the sunlit areas; it also darkened the shadows in the recess. The green filter lowers the values of red and blue but lightens yellow and green values"

 

Ansel Adams 'The White House Ruin' from 'Examples - The Making of 40 Photographs' 1983.

 

Yes, the standard way to descibe the effect of a filter is to take into account filter factors and the negative positive process and then say that the same colour becomes lighter, and the comlimentary colour becomes darker. I mean, who can disagree with Ansel Adams, somebody who studied the science and art of photography?

 

Steve

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"I used a green filter (Wratten No.58), which better defined the sunlit areas; it also darkened the shadows in the recess. The green filter lowers the values of red and blue but lightens yellow and green values"

 

Ansel Adams 'The White House Ruin' from 'Examples - The Making of 40 Photographs' 1983.

 

Yes, the standard way to descibe the effect of a filter is to take into account filter factors and the negative positive process and then say that the same colour becomes lighter, and the comlimentary colour becomes darker. I mean, who can disagree with Ansel Adams, somebody who studied the science and art of photography?

 

Steve

 

You are absolutely right and that is a great way to explain this. Good for you!

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In case you are taking a carefully measured landscape, it might be useful to have a look in the data sheet of the film manufacturer, since different films have slightly different spectral sensitivities.

 

For everyday photography on black and white negative film (I have no experience on BW slides), one can probably add one stop and will hardly notice any dfference between these filters in terms of exposure. Or the TTL metering should take care of this, if available.

 

Also, the change in grey level distributions between yellow and yellow-green is not dramatic. These filters add a nuance.

 

When measuring the filter density using an exposure meter, I would advise to use daylight - normal lightbulb illumination will have the same effect, as a yellow filter.

 

Stefan

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For everyday photography on black and white negative film (I have no experience on BW slides), one can probably add one stop and will hardly notice any dfference between these filters in terms of exposure.

 

Sometimes Ansel Adams (since nobody seems to disagree with him) didn't apply a filter factor at all but compensated at the development stage instead, which is OK if you have a home processing setup, and in the case of 35mm work with the whole roll of film that way. It would depend on what 'values' (tones) he wanted in the print, but it is an option worth experimenting with especially if you keep a coloured filter on your lens all the time.

 

Steve

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