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How bad is lens haziness


tredlie

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How long is a piece of string?

 

It really depends on how bad the haze is. Most older lenses will have a degree of it, and in most cases it won't make any real world difference to the images. More haze will cause lower contrast and slightly softer images.

 

You can usually have the lens cleaned.

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Fungus, fine scratches, condensation in some cases...

Which element(s) are affected? Haziness on the rear element is often worse than on the front one.

Hard to say how bad it is - and what can be done - without looking at the lens itself.

If it can be fixed, it will most likely require disassembling the lens and cleaning it. I wouldn't try it myself though: such a job is best done by a specialist.

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how long is a piece of string is a good reference!

 

I bought a lens with haze on it. The haze was due to off-gassing and was on the rear element. I had a 30 day return policy and on my inspection, it was not that bad, although there was some loss of contrast. I sent it off to Gus who removed it and tightened up some loose stuff and it is like a brand new lens. FWIW the lens was a steal because of the haze...I got into a 90 for less than 1K (lens plus CLA). I would not have attempted this without a return offer.

 

Your milage may vary. If an element is etched, your up a creek so to speak.

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I recenty obtained a 35mm 2.8 Summaron which had, I would say, 'a little haze.' I shot some test negatives and then sent the lens out to be cleaned, by a well-known expert, and it was. It came back clear as new. I then shot a second round of tests with it and I could not see any difference at all between the first negs. and the second. This is with Tri-X. I don't think a little haze is much of a problem. Of course if it is 'a lot of haze', that's a different problem..Robbie

 

http://robbiebedell.photoshelter.com

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I would get in touch with one of the well known Leica technicians or Leica CS and have them evaluate the lens, find out if it can be cleaned and adjusted, and what the cost would be.

 

Good luck.

 

Can you recommend one in the states? I have an old TeleEle with a rear element in need of a doctor.

 

Thanks

Tom

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Can you recommend one in the states? I have an old TeleEle with a rear element in need of a doctor.

 

Thanks

Tom

 

 

Sure, http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-blog/leica-repair-specialists/

I would start with Don Goldberg and go down the list.

In my experience Don responds well to email.

He lives in Oregon, Wisconsin, so he is on CDT.

 

For your lens as described I would ask for a repair estimate.

If it can be repaired at a reasonable cost, I would ask for a repair and a CLA.

 

Good luck.

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This is haze:

 

My 1932 Leitz 7.3cm Æ’1.9 Hektor came from Mexico in pretty bad shape.

The focus mount was tight frozen with likely the first fit of grease from the factory, the front element was grimy and dirty on the outside, the second and third element had pretty bad haze, the aperture mechanism was rough and gritty.

Beware, the hazy elements had a thick milky white shade to them, shining a flashlight through them would look like a candle light behind frozen glass.

 

These were shots wide open with the lens, as it arrived:

6086238392_a8da17eb5e_z.jpg

Hektor 7.3cm Æ’1.9 *1932 by teknopunk.com, on Flickr

 

6085690245_7b480a7eae_z.jpg

Hektor 7.3cm Æ’1.9 *1932 by teknopunk.com, on Flickr

 

After I took the lens apart, cleaning the elements from haze, cleaning and re-lubing the mechanics and then (the most difficult part), adjust the lens for wide open use from close focus to infinity on digital Leica M, the images looked like this:

 

6112649723_a3a1730c5e_z.jpg

expo is over by teknopunk.com, on Flickr

 

6135956963_7fc1e144bd_z.jpg

7.3cm f1.9 - girl watching man by teknopunk.com, on Flickr

 

The front element didn't clean entirely, while the element in the rear group closest to the aperture has a loss of anti reflective coating, leading to an overall lower contrast, than normal with this lens.

What should be apparent is, that with a lens with really bad haze, you will loose contrast, bright image elements tend to "glow" (look at the white shirts) and the lens will loose a lot of light obviously.

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I then shot a second round of tests with it and I could not see any difference at all between the first negs. and the second. This is with Tri-X.

 

Perhaps Tri-X explains much of this: a contrasty film made up for the loss of contrast of your lens due to haze.

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This is haze:

 

 

Just goes to show that the tools are less important than the person using them. When a photographer such as menos understands the limits and characteristics of his equipment it is possible to exploit those "issues" and use them to his advantage.

 

Bravo Dirk, for showing us some beautiful images...

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