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Noctilux + ND filter


kcnarf

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On his website Steve Huff today has again demonstrated and lauded the M9 performance of the SLR Magic T 0.95 lens, which he alleges to have an IQ that is a bit superior to that of the new Noctilux. He says his photos were shot at 160 ISO with a 1.8 ND filter in extremely bright sunlight.

 

Now I might have temporary access to the new Noctilux, BUT I POSSESS ONLY A .9 ND filter. IS A .9 ND FILTER UP TO THE JOB OF SHOOTING IT WIDE OPEN IN BRIGHT SUNLIGHT, OR WOULD I HAVE TO GET HOLD OF A 1.8 ND FILTER? WOULDN'T THE FILTERING OUT OF 3 STOPS OF SUNLIGHT BE ENOUGH IF I WERE TO SHOT AT MAXIMUM SHUTTER SPEED?

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Three stops won't really be enough in bright daylight. You'll want closer to six.

 

Hoya has some nice variety but doesn't make a 60mm. That leaves B+W and Heliopan. Some of the B+W filters are single-coated...

 

If you find any in stock somewhere - let me know. ;)

 

WHAT'S WITH THE BIG BOLD STATEMENT?

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Sorry, excuse my humour.

 

I use a 0.9 B+W ND filter with my Noct and 75/1.4 (I also have ND filters for my 21 Sx, and 28/2, 35/1.4 & 50/1.4). These are incredibly useful for increasing the range of your lenses at wider settings, as Steve suggests.

 

0.9 gives me 3 stops in bright NZ sunlight (we have no ozone, so the sun here can be very harsh) - that is enough to make the difference between making a shot, and not, for me. I would venture that 1.8 (6 stops) is really taking it a bit far. How bright is the sun where you will be using this lens?

 

I would also say that it's a bit simplistic to say that you must use a Noct all the time wide open, and that there is no point having it if you stop it down. That's just plain silly - the Noct renders well stopped down, so use it that way when the need arises.

 

To my mind, getting the whole subject in focus is more important than simply exploiting one aspect of a very fine lens indeed! That does, however, still mean that I'm often hitting the 1/4,000 limit on my M9 - so I do use the filters.

 

Cheers

John

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I also have a BW .9 ND filter that I use for the Noctilux .95 and for the Summilux 75mm. Seems to work out well in Hawaii even with our bright sun. Unlike a denser filter you can most likely leave the .9 ND on during the day even if you decide to take pictures in shady areas.

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Granted, this was at the beach - but daylight is daylight. With a .9/8x I could only open the Nokton up to f/1.7 at ISO 160 to get this shot. Shooting with the Nocti would have been no better. That's why I'm leaning towards a 6-stop filter. You can always bump the ISO a little bit as needed (though unlikely) but if you only have a 3-stop ND and want to open up more, you're stuck.

 

I agree, a .9/8x is more suited to typical scenes with darker subject matter, varied lighting, etc. You can most certainly leave it on for general shooting. The 6-stop is a little more "specialized" I'd say when you know you're going to shoot wide open pretty much most of the time.

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Yes, if you want to shoot a Noctilux wide open in bright sunlight you will need a 6-stop ND filter. A 3-stop filter won't do it.

 

This image was shot with a 6-stop filter at iso 160, 1/125 at f1. You can tell by the light that it is sunny, but not super sunny. That's 5 stops under the M9's 1/4000 maximum. And there are many scenes which are 2-3 stops brighter.

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Well...... precisely because of this I bought a B+W 0.9 and 1.8......

 

Screwed together and stored in a leather 'coin pouch' they occupy minimal space and weight and cover all eventualities.

 

Seems a bit daft to spend so much on a lens and then fail to buy the necessary ND filters to get the best out of it....... get both if you are serious about this lens.....

 

If just a 'loaner' then get or borrow the 6 stop ND

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Yes, if you want to shoot a Noctilux wide open in bright sunlight you will need a 6-stop ND filter. A 3-stop filter won't do it.

 

This image was shot with a 6-stop filter at iso 160, 1/125 at f1. You can tell by the light that it is sunny, but not super sunny. That's 5 stops under the M9's 1/4000 maximum. And there are many scenes which are 2-3 stops brighter.

 

Can any of that filter rendering be done in post processing if you don't have a 6 stop ND?

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Three stops won't really be enough in bright daylight. You'll want closer to six.

 

Hoya has some nice variety but doesn't make a 60mm. That leaves B+W and Heliopan. Some of the B+W filters are single-coated...

 

If you find any in stock somewhere - let me know. ;)

 

WHAT'S WITH THE BIG BOLD STATEMENT?

 

Robert White have 103 and 106 in stock (b+w pro series). They support this forum.

Specialist Camera and Photographic Suppliers | Robert White Photographic Ltd. Placed an order 2 mins ago,plenty in stock.

Brian

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Yes it is possible up to a point, to replicate the effect of an ND filter in post processing, here are 2 links.

 

Quick Tip: Replicate a Graduated Neutral Density Filter in Photoshop

 

What types of filter cannot be emulated by post-processing? - Photography - Stack Exchange

 

Personally I prefer to use ND filters, I spend a great deal of time in Africa, mostly very bright sunshine conditions, they're indispensable.

 

I’ve recently purchased a couple of Heliopan Vario ND filters they range from 1 to 6.6 f-stops (0.3 to 2.0 density) on one filter, avoids the hassle of swopping between different ND filters. They’re not cheap however the quality is excellent and very convenient to use, you simply rotate the ring until you achieve the desired exposure.

 

Heliopan Vario ND filter mounted on the C/V 50mm Nokton f1.1 - the lens hood is unusable with the filter mounted.

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Can any of that filter rendering be done in post processing if you don't have a 6 stop ND?

 

No, unfortunately not. Shooting wide-open in bright sunlight will blow your exposure. Once the highlights are gone, you can't get them back.

 

Michali's link shows how to replicate a graduated ND filter - a filter designed for effect, not exposure - in Photoshop. That's a different thing altogether.

 

No way around it. Gotta have a 6-stop ND to shoot at f1 in bright sunshine...

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Yes it is possible up to a point, to replicate the effect of an ND filter in post processing, here are 2 links.

 

Quick Tip: Replicate a Graduated Neutral Density Filter in Photoshop

 

What types of filter cannot be emulated by post-processing? - Photography - Stack Exchange

 

Personally I prefer to use ND filters, I spend a great deal of time in Africa, mostly very bright sunshine conditions, they're indispensable.

 

I’ve recently purchased a couple of Heliopan Vario ND filters they range from 1 to 6.6 f-stops (0.3 to 2.0 density) on one filter, avoids the hassle of swopping between different ND filters. They’re not cheap however the quality is excellent and very convenient to use, you simply rotate the ring until you achieve the desired exposure.

 

Heliopan Vario ND filter mounted on the C/V 50mm Nokton f1.1 - the lens hood is unusable with the filter mounted.

[ATTACH]305119[/ATTACH]

 

Thanks for this Mike.

 

Does anyone know id the Heliopan Variable ND filter fit on the new Noctilux 0.95?

 

Cheers

John

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Does anyone know id the Heliopan Variable ND filter fit on the new Noctilux 0.95?

 

Cheers

John

 

John- Heliopan make 62mm and 67mm Vario ND filters amongst others. I would think that you could use a 60mm step up ring with one of these filters for use on the Noctilux.

I know that they make a 60mm to 67mm step up ring, I'm not too sure if they make a 60mm to 62mm step up ring.

 

Maybe someone else on the Forum has more info on this?

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I'm kind of curious too, as I need an ND solution for the 0,95. A .9 just isn't going to cut it, and nobody has any 1.8 in stock. I like the idea of a Vari-ND.

 

There are others out there as well (e.g. Fader) which have had mixed reviews in the past due to color shifts and uneven effect, etc. The newer version is supposed to be better. Then there's the Singh Ray, the mother of Vari-NDs but it's quite pricey. Kenko makes one but only in 77/82mm sizes.

 

Worse comes to worse, one could always use two polarizing filters - but that could very well vignette... :p

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