davidbaddley Posted January 8, 2012 Share #1 Posted January 8, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) While using my 1a today (yes, I still occasionally shoot this 81 year old Leica), I felt the back pop and looked to see that some of the vulcanite had just separated from the body. Except for a shutter mechanism replacement done several decades ago, the camera is in well-worn but original condition. Because the vulcanite hasn't cracked yet, I'd like to just squirt a little glue into the gap to reattach it. Which glue should I use? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. - David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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earleygallery Posted January 9, 2012 Share #2 Posted January 9, 2012 I've not tried this, but it can't go too badly wrong....I'd use a dab of black silicone sealant (the sort that plumbers use to seal gaps around baths/sinks). Most glues will leave some mark but the silicone will fill any 'gaps' and should be easy to remove if you need to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted January 9, 2012 Share #3 Posted January 9, 2012 On my M3 I used a 2 pack epoxy, probably Araldite but it was a long time ago, I seem to remember that a try with a contact adhesive (Evostick type) did not work. I wouldn't use Silicon, personally, messy stuff that dries flexible, and I am not sure it will adhere well to metal Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkCambridgeshire Posted January 9, 2012 Share #4 Posted January 9, 2012 On my M3 I used a 2 pack epoxy, probably Araldite but it was a long time ago, I seem to remember that a try with a contact adhesive (Evostick type) did not work. I wouldn't use Silicon, personally, messy stuff that dries flexible, and I am not sure it will adhere well to metal Gerry Araldite is an epoxy resin adhesive and not suitable for sticking vulcanite because it is so difficult to remove. Any contact adhesive should be suitable. dunk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerzy Posted January 9, 2012 Share #5 Posted January 9, 2012 I am using glue for wood (Holzleim is German word for it). Done for the first time more than 4 years ago, it holds. Reglueing, or better to write removing vulcanite requires a lot of attention not to crack it. Usually, if vulcanite starts to peel off a total removal of vulcanite and complete reglueing shall be considered. Vulcanite needs to be warmed up, than it does not crack. I use hairdryer to warm up. I use a thin nylon rope (not a real rope, just very thin one), insert it between vulcanite and alu body and working with the "rope" as a saw I am separating vulcanite from the body. Everything while heating vulcanite to avoid cracking. Than you need to clean the body from residual glue, warm up body shell in cooking oven to cca 50C, apply glue and warmig up vulcanite with hairdryer glue it. I start from lens flange glueing firstly front and one side (warming up vulcanite), when it dries (few minutes) I am doing back and in third stage the rest. You have a hole for focusing screw, this will make alignment of vulcanite easier. With the time vulcanite shrinks slightly, when it is warm you can elongate it slightly to reduce the gap, usually under the lens flange. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbaddley Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share #6 Posted January 11, 2012 Thank you for all of the advise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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