pr28893 Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share #21 Posted September 26, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi I was actually talking about cyan shift on the edge of the mage rather than the magenta cast on black clothing etc. At some point I suppose I will have to code the lens but the IR filter. A bit fiddly as I have the LTM version of the 15mm lens. Something that does seem interesting is that the Exif data shows a notional f stop number which makes sense. Not something the GXR offers as yet. Thanks anyway Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 26, 2011 Posted September 26, 2011 Hi pr28893, Take a look here M8 sensor. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
JeTexas Posted September 26, 2011 Share #22 Posted September 26, 2011 The Cyan casting only seems to be a problem with people wearing black clothes in dark situations. I shot a band and it looked like they were all wearing purple. L1014806 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! They were all wearing black. Happened to me again when I shot this chemistry teacher lighting methane bubbles. The r/Houston Photo Project: pbdot | Flickr - Photo Sharing! He was wearing a black shirt as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted September 26, 2011 Share #23 Posted September 26, 2011 You are confusing a few things here. If you do not use an IR cut filter, there will be a magenta cast on some dark synthetic material, a shift in foliage green to yellow and a purple/red blotchy effect on Caucasian skin. These are not correctable in post-processing. (well, if you are an expert in LAB and blending masks, maybe) If you use a filter (as you should to get decent color out of this camera) but do not get the in- camera corrections right there will be a Cyan drift in the corners of wideangle images, or red if the camera overcorrects. That is not too difficult to eliminate in post-processing using a number of methods. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shade Posted September 26, 2011 Share #24 Posted September 26, 2011 The cyan drift will only occur on wide angles that have their rear flange sits too cloe towards the sensor, especially if the lens is uncoded. But as jaap said, fixable in post process. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xpr.108 Posted October 26, 2011 Share #25 Posted October 26, 2011 Sorry to hi-jack this thread... What's the final verdict here? I just received my m8 from CLA job in NJ (in part due to dust/dark spots on the sensor just like OP). I immediately put 35 rit on and start shooting at stopping down and after 100 shots or so, dark spots starts to appear on image. What else could be wrong with it? Is it dust? Dirty shutter curtain? I haven't removed my rit after mounting it during those 100 shots. Is it fair to say that I will have to constantly cleaning my sensor due to dust problems even though I don't plan to remove my 35 rit from it, EVER? Thanks in advance for your feedback. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted October 26, 2011 Share #26 Posted October 26, 2011 Difficult to say w/o viewing them but those are probably dust and/or oil spots on your sensor. This is not unusual after a CLA. Not a big deal to remove them, you will have to do it from time to time anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xpr.108 Posted October 26, 2011 Share #27 Posted October 26, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Difficult to say w/o viewing them but those are probably dust and/or oil spots on your sensor. This is not unusual after a CLA. Not a big deal to remove them, you will have to do it from time to time anyway. I am experiencing the same issue with OP (same symptom from his pictures). This is weird though... I just received m8 back from NJ and literally took m8 from sealed plastic bag, remove body cap and mount 35 rit (took about 15 seconds to do this) and start shooting. I start seeing dark spots on images after 100 shots or so. Lens and camera were together the entire time. I don't mind cleaning the sensor from time to time, but probably not after 100 shots. What else is wrong with it? It's at the NJ service center now. Do you think Leica technicians are aware of this issue? I just want to ask all the experts here so I can at least tell the repair center folks what to look out for (real world usage vs. repair manual). Thanks again for your reply. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted October 26, 2011 Share #28 Posted October 26, 2011 I would not worry. CLA implies some lubrification so it is not unusual to get some oil spots after it. Happened to me a couple of times with dSLRs already. Just clean your sensor and things should be OK. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xpr.108 Posted October 26, 2011 Share #29 Posted October 26, 2011 Ok. I will have another look once they shipped it back. I am puzzled as to why I don't see dark spots until the 100th picture. Oh well... to be continued. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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