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Using electrical tape to 6 bit coding lens!


maccaco

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Yes!!! I used white and black electrical tape 0,12mm to encode the lens (000110 for my summicron 35/2 v3) and the M8 detect it now!... And the lens make "click".

 

I think it's "cleaner" than using pen ink and no waste and I do not think the mount is damaged. So saving money to purchase the M9!.

 

Opinions?.

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Yes but the lens mount is calibrated to a tolerance of 0.01 mm and you are putting a 0.1 mm shim on one side. Of course it will take up the extra thickness as it is held against each other by the spring action of the bajonet lugs. But the precision of the system is gone.

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Yes but the lens mount is calibrated to a tolerance of 0.01 mm and you are putting a 0.1 mm shim on one side. Of course it will take up the extra thickness as it is held against each other by the spring action of the bajonet lugs. But the precision of the system is gone.

 

I had not thought about it ... At the end, I have to encode it as you have to do!

 

thanks for the observations to the two :)

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Spain is EU, why not send the lens to Will van Manen to code?

 

Yes .. I'm on it (I am informing). It seems that it can encode this lens.

 

Thanks for the suggestion! :)

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Is there anyone really doing the coding with a Dremel @ home....:)

 

Is there instructions on the Net for "coding by hard machining" - I guess not likely. So far variants of whats sold on E-bay.

 

If a lens is sent from Sweden - where/who gives the best support/price?

 

What is a normal cost?

 

Thx

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Is there anyone really doing the coding with a Dremel @ home....:)

 

Is there instructions on the Net for "coding by hard machining" - I guess not likely. So far variants of whats sold on E-bay.

 

If a lens is sent from Sweden - where/who gives the best support/price?

 

What is a normal cost?

 

Thx

 

The four most-feared words in the world:

 

I - have - a - Dremel.

 

:eek:;)

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Perhaps this is a helpful comment.

 

I have two CV lenses, both of which have a recessed channel at the place where the coding needs to be. I used a white self adhesive address label, pressed down into the channel, then cleanly trimmed with a surgical scalpel.

 

It was then a simple task to mark the coding using a black sharpie felt tip pen.

 

As the paper label is actually in the recess, it does not change the alignment of the lens and has remained attached and clean for more than 18 months now.

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this might be a stupid question but I've just coded a CV 35mm (1101010 according to my 'd-coder' disc) but... how do I know it's worked?

 

In Aperture it tells me that i used a 35mm lens (good - I did) but the Lens field itself is blank.

 

I used the black pen as supplied as it seemed to me that applying anything of significant thickness was asking for problems.

 

Tim

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Is there anyone really doing the coding with a Dremel @ home....:)

There is no way that I would put a Dremel tool on an expensive lens. Others might be qualified to do that but not me. :o

 

Several years ago I bit the bullet and sent three of my older lenses to New Jersey to be coded. The fourth I bought already coded.

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Maccaco, I do adjust my own old non Leica LTM lenses.

When adjusting an internal shim by polishing even a slight difference in moving the whole lens towards or away form the camera like 0.03mm has a huuge impact on shifting your focal plane.

 

Even worse, in your case, you move the lens away from the camera in one corner of the image, resulting in a skewed focal plane (one corner of the frame likely will not focus precisely sharp at infinity and will likely front focus - best seen in wide open close focus photographs).

 

You should not do this. The benefit in seeing your lens' exif data recordings in all images being ruined is just not there ;-)

 

Btw, as this has come up: if one is determined, to send an out of warranty Leica lens to Leica in Solms for a 6-bit coding, there is no issue in touching the lens mount and ruining it with a Dremel (given precautions are taken, to protect the lens otherwise).

 

Leica will not code your old mount, but exchange it with a new coded mount.

 

I would not do this with an in warranty lens, as Leica might refuse any coverage of other defects by warranty (I would, as I would not know, which fist handed expert has done what else inside the lens).

 

Handy people could for example happily remove the lens mount (where possible) and ship the mount to an expert, who will code it (saves shipping cost, insurance cost and anger of lost items in mail, as just a mount has to be replaced).

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There is no way that I would put a Dremel tool on an expensive lens. Others might be qualified to do that but not me. :o

 

Several years ago I bit the bullet and sent three of my older lenses to New Jersey to be coded. The fourth I bought already coded.

I bought a used Voigtlander 1.4/35mm Nokton on which the previous owner had cut coding recesses in the flange using (he said) a Foredom high-speed hand tool with a diamond-tipped bit. It's a little rough looking, but it works. :cool:

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Did a dirty DIY with a mini dremel on my CV 21/4. Ugly work really. Two notches were enough fortunately but the lens is recognized as a Summicron 28/2 instead of Elmarit 21/2.8 asph. The culprit is a screw head on the coding area but i like the results so much that i've painted the screw head in black. :rolleyes:

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