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Buying an M6


Dutch

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Hi,

 

I am tentatively looking at buying a Leica M6 and was wondering if people could give me some advice on things to look out for, or consider before buying.

 

I have not yet decided for sure if I will go for an M6 or perhaps an M8, but I recently learned that it is quite easy to develop B&W film at home, and think it might be more rewarding than sticking to digital. I will keep my DSLR anyway, and the Leica is intended as a different/complimentary shooting experience.

 

Since I am not used to buying second-hand and only have limited knowledge about Leica rangefinders, I would appreciate some pointers on what to look out for. I know there are different versions of the M6 with different framelines, but since I expect to use either a 35mm or 50mm lens, I think all will be suitable.

 

Any advice is appreciated!

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Searching around this forum will bring up many relevant threads. However, I suspect all or most of them will say something along the following lines:

 

1) BUy from a reputable dealer where there is some warranty and a right of return.

 

2) Buy the most recent M6 you can find that still fits your price / condition criteria.

 

3) An M6 that is well used and cosmetically 'challenged' will cost less -- as long as it has been well used but not abused, it will provide you with many years' of service.

 

4) As far as the 'classic' pre-TTL M6 is concerned there is only the 0.72 finder variant (someone is bound to know different; let's say that absolutely the commonest variant is the 0.72).

 

Google other threads for things like checking shutter curtains and shutter speeds, although if you buy from a reputable dealer then he/she should be able to confirm prior to purchase that the speeds at least sound/look OK and that there is no damage to shutter curtains. If they can't, move on to the next dealer.

 

Don't be sidetracked by other collectibles, limited editions etc -- the M6 was probably responsible for more world class pictures in the twenty years' of its life than any other camera.

 

BUy it with confidence and enjoy it.

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Thanks Alun.

 

I certainly plan to buy from a reputable store and don't mind paying a bit more for the extra bit of service and certainty, especially to have some confidence that the camera is mechanically okay.

 

The collectibles I don't care about at all. The camera is going to be used, so it will get marks. For the same reason I wouldn’t mind some cosmetic wear, it gives the camera character after all.

 

I’m mostly curious if I might have missed things to consider specifically with the M6 and/or when shooting B&W film. (I plan to use only B&W film at first.)

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Thanks Alun.

 

I certainly plan to buy from a reputable store and don't mind paying a bit more for the extra bit of service and certainty, especially to have some confidence that the camera is mechanically okay.

 

The collectibles I don't care about at all. The camera is going to be used, so it will get marks. For the same reason I wouldn’t mind some cosmetic wear, it gives the camera character after all.

 

I’m mostly curious if I might have missed things to consider specifically with the M6 and/or when shooting B&W film. (I plan to use only B&W film at first.)

 

Dutch,

 

I recently purchased a second hand M6 from a photographer who had not used it in a while. Little did I know (I am a newbie), the meter was not functioning properly and the frame lines were a bit stuck.

 

My M6 is the x0.72 version and looks almost brand new. It's just that mechnical cameras need to be regularly used to ensure that none of the mechnical components get sticky or stuck. I am told, that unfortunately, with older cameras, these issues can be quite common despite cameras being in apparent "mint" condition.

 

If you get the chance to check out the M6 in person, bring a light meter or digital camera to check the accuracy of the meter. Make sure the light meter in the M6 is accurate as it is the only electronic component of the camera and may get a bit "rusty" from lack of use.

 

Also, check that the frame line switch is functioning, and cycle through the shutter speeds to see whether they seem OK.

 

Good luck!

 

Cheers,

 

Jono

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Hi

 

If it is nostalgia a M2 is the nicest M and cheaper than M6, no meter.

If you want cheap a M4-2 is cheaper, still no meter.

The M6 rangefinder will flare intermittently, regular if you shoot gigs... only annoys some people, some of these give Solms lots of Euro to fix

If you want to shoot ex cine mono, you need a baseplate mod if you buy a late M6, if you want to use Leica relaodable cassettes, this reduces the cost of film, and you can still get Kodak 5222.

In mono you dont need a on camera meter, use a hand held for in shadow and in sun, memorise and switch apertures as subject approaches.

In camera is less rather then more... The on camera technique faster as the LED lights are too compelling, for some people.

If you want 28 or 75mm a M4-P is ok.

The 1/15 sec shutter speed tells you it is an ok camera or needs relube.

Souds like

 

ping, pongssssssss

 

Noel

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Thanks a lot for the great advice, really useful!

 

Jono, did you have the M6 serviced after you found out? (I wonder what the costs are to have that done.)

I understand what you mean, and it might be a good reason for me to buy from a dealer who is aware of these issues and services the camera before putting it up for sale.

 

I have considered the M4-P and M3 (although not yet the M2) and prefer to have an in-camera meter. The M6 also seems to hit the spot for me in terms of affordability, nostalgia, and modern convenience. The MP would be even better, but that one is simply too expensive.

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It's very rare for a dealer to service a camera before putting it up for sale. The camera might not need a service, in which case, all the profit and more has been wasted.

 

Dealers offer a warranty. IF you find that the camera needs a service after you have bought it, THEN the dealer will have that done for you.

 

This is what happened to a IIIf I bought from RedDot. It needed a CLA to cure a shutter stick and was back in my hands within 4 days.

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I've bought from Schouten-Select and Collect Camera in NL - both highly recommended. I very much doubt you would get a faulty camera from either of these dealers. Collect is also very fair on price.

Otherwise we're lucky enough in Europe to be tightly surrounded by excellent dealers in many countries: I've also bought from Leicashop in Vienna and NewOldCamera in Milan, and the cameras and lenses have usually been better than described.

 

Good luck finding the right M6 for you!

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The M6 is a superb camera, being produced from 1984 to 1998. I wouldn't worry about how old it is as long as it has had a recent CLA and is being sold in excellent condition. The center-weighted metering is generally fine but as a backup you might like to consider a handheld meter such as a Sekonic 308. What lenses are you looking at? The M6 is best from 35 to 90, despite having wider and narrower framelines; for these, accessory finders are a good bet. Pair it up with a 35 or a 50 as your standard lens and you'll have a great time.

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You mentioned that a reason for buying a M6 is the ease of home development. I wonder how you were planning to view your negs afterwards. If you want to get them into the computer, you must either have a decent film scanner or give your negs to a shop to scan for you. That is obviously another cost and task that will factor into your decision.

 

I have a M7 and a M9. I bought a small dev tank and chemicals in about September last year, have shot perhaps five rolls of black and white film, and STILL have not developed them. Meanwhile I have churned through another few thousand images with my M9. I absolutely love the experience of shooting with a film M, but I just haven't brought myself to doing my own development yet!

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Slide film is another option. A hassle to get developed now (E6 no longer available in some cities) but still possible; you get to enjoy the originals and can have them scanned and printed as well for the best of both worlds.

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I have a M7 and a M9. I bought a small dev tank and chemicals in about September last year, have shot perhaps five rolls of black and white film, and STILL have not developed them. Meanwhile I have churned through another few thousand images with my M9. I absolutely love the experience of shooting with a film M, but I just haven't brought myself to doing my own development yet!

 

I'd suggest you sell your M7 to someone who will use it.

 

Since discovering film I've shot 90% (or more) of my images with my film cameras. Through sheer persistence I managed to buy a brand new LS9000ED before they were discontinued and, as far as I can see, there are other good scanners still available for a reasonable price.

 

Here in Stockholm at least there are also labs that scan at excellent quality and reasonable price, if needed. The scans can even be reviewed online.

 

Generally, the difficulties of using film are all too often overstated. I'm even fascinated by the constant moaning that people do about the process of scanning, itself. Yesterday evening I set the scanner to batch-scan a selection of frames and then went to sit on the balcony with a glass of wine and a book; the sky took on a beautiful rosy glow as the sun went down, a light breeze brushed across my cheeks, while small beads of perspiration formed on the surface of the chilled wineglass. When I went back indoors, the images I'd longed to see were waiting for me...

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Hi Dutch,

There is good advice at cameraquest, scroll down to M6 section.

 

Leica M Guide

 

The M6 TTL is worth considering, the meter is easier to use, the shutter speed selector rotates in the same way as a digital M ( something for the future?).

 

The Ilford web site has great info about B&W processing...

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=16

 

Good luck...

 

John

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Thanks for all the responses, very helpful! The Ilford website looks great, I will take the time to read through it a bit later on.

 

Ah, they are fine but you'll want a Leica lens sometime! You could also try an older Leica 50 Summicon or Summicron rigid, or a 35 Summaron.

Certainly! An older Summicron 50 could be an option. I will see what's available when I go out to buy. Maybe I will find a nice deal on a body/lens combo.

 

I absolutely love the experience of shooting with a film M, but I just haven't brought myself to doing my own development yet!

This is the one thing that is really holding me back. Maybe it will be like plasticman so vividly describes it, or maybe I end up with just negatives, or even undeveloped films. It really depends on how much I will enjoy doing the work to develop film.

 

What does attract me to film is having the negative, which is unlike a raw-file, and the option of making the prints myself the old fashioned way. I don't have a darkroom, but it is an appealing thought that maybe in the future I could make one.

 

That's really what this thread is about, trying to get a feeling what getting into film photography would be like with an M6.

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As Nike say, just do it!

 

If you find that film isn't for you, you can sell the M6 on, you won't lose anything. But processing a B&W film is about as difficult as cooking pasta.

 

The Epson flatbed scanner produces excellent results IMHO and as you say, there is the option of wet printing and getting results which no amount of photoshopping can reproduce.

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