Brighten Viewfinder

[johnloumiles]

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Pretty simple, any way to brighten the lines and patch in viewfinder of a M for low low light shooting? Some of my uses are not as simple as measuring distance only. I have a M6 and M8 the former being brighter in low light.

 

I've looked around and have not seen this talked about, which usually means it's not possible but maybe someone has a trick up their sleeve;)

 

Thanks for reading....

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[jaapv]

Short of buying an M9Ti, none.

[adan]

RE the RF patch - nope, it is by definition showing you the light coming from the subject. Outside of spotlighting your subject, where would additional light come from (that includes any useful information)?

 

(Checking the RF window for fingerprints is a good idea - one print can mush down the contrast and clarity of the dual image substantially).

 

RE: the framelines - get an M9 titanium with internal LED illumination.

 

More seriously (or at least more cheaply), Nikon used to make an illuminator for their SLR meter windows: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/accessories/htmls/eyepiece.htm

 

So did Canon, built into their Booster T meter prism: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/canonf1/html/booster/reference.htm

 

I imagine if you can find a functioning Nikon illuminator you could hack it to attach to an M hot shoe instead of the eyepiece, so that it would hang over the front of an M and light up the existing frameline window.

[johnloumiles]

Thank you Jaapv and Adan,

 

Interesting ideas Adan, I might look into the Nikon option. Sliding flash arm in the hotshoe in order to get the illuminator over to the eyepiece. Who knows maybe it will work somewhat.

 

I wonder if the Ti viewfinder is a preview of what will be in the M10. Otherwise I'll have a better chance of tripping over one in a alley then affording it!

 

Oh and I always keep a cloth on hand to rub the mush off;)

[vonheim]

When shooting at night I use a tripod and simply hold a small flash light in front of the "frosty" glass/window. This is for framing only, of course:-)

 

Keeping both viewfinder windows clean is a must for both day and night:-)

[jaapv]

You could try the Leicagoodies "Shine" instead of the flashlight.

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[EricC]

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I think that this may be what you are after.

 

The Leicagoodies Shade :

 

www.leicagoodies.com

[jaapv]

I think that this may be what you are after.

 

The Leicagoodies Shade :

 

www.leicagoodies.com

That is just the other way around - it darkens the RF patch

[johnloumiles]

You could try the Leicagoodies "Shine" instead of the flashlight.

 

That seems like it couldn't hurt. Maybe ill try it for 30 bucks.

[EricC]

That is just the other way around - it darkens the RF patch

 

Yes, but the original poster was also asking for the Frame Lines to be brighter too.

[adan]

From Leicagoodies' own description of the Shade:

 

"With the help of a filter the light passing is diminished, thus lowering the brightness of both, bright-line frames and rangefinder patch."

 

Which part of "lowering the brightness of... bright-line frames" means "increasing the brightness of bright-line frames"?

[EricC]

My apologies to all for misunderstanding the original request.

[johnloumiles]

My apologies to all for misunderstanding the original request.

 

Thanks for your input, I wish it was as easy as putting something over the window!

[EricC]

Thank you, yes, if only.

[Xmas]

Pretty simple, any way to brighten the lines and patch in viewfinder of a M for low low light shooting? Some of my uses are not as simple as measuring distance only. I have a M6 and M8 the former being brighter in low light.

 

I've looked around and have not seen this talked about, which usually means it's not possible but maybe someone has a trick up their sleeve;)

 

Thanks for reading....

If the M6 is detectable brighter then M8 then there might be 'fog' in the M8, check carefully with flash light through optics in darkened room. For example if the M8 has been stored in auto trunks it may have been heat cycled, and the lube may have migrated. Try another M8.

 

Night shooting I use a M3, for bright frame and rangefinder offset image.

 

Noel

[Washington]

This is a pretty cool question and a lot of you though the same way I did concerning

illuminating the frame lines. I want to look at this myself because it is such a neat idea!

(This is what I mean when I say I am easily distracted!)

[johnloumiles]

If the M6 is detectable brighter then M8 then there might be 'fog' in the M8, check carefully with flash light through optics in darkened room. For example if the M8 has been stored in auto trunks it may have been heat cycled, and the lube may have migrated. Try another M8.

 

Night shooting I use a M3, for bright frame and rangefinder offset image.

 

Noel

 

Xmas, I illuminated with a LED and save for a very few dust particles it's crystal clear. The difference between the two is almost negligible but the M6 has just a little bit more oomph.

The M6 is also practically brand new while the M8 well worn in.

 

I've been looking into a M3 or M5 for a second film body. Shooting one of those with high iso exclusively at night, while leaving the 50-100 ASA in the M6

[Lindolfi]

The great thing about the brightlines is that they get brighter when there is more ambient light so that they remain visible. There are exceptions: there needs to be light falling into the ribbed opaque window next to the large viewfinder window. Sometimes when you stand in a dark doorway, photographing something in the street, the brightlines are darker than usual.

 

Here's a nice experiment: shine a very small flashlight into the ribbed opaque window in indoor situation: you'll see the brightlines get brighter.

 

And so if you make a small led light that clips over the ribbed opaque window, while not obstructing anything else and not interfering with the lens, you have brighter framelines for indoor use. You can even make the led lamp red, so that you imitate the titan M9 framelines.

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Hallo,

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[earleygallery]

If it's too dark to see the frame lines surely it's too dark to see anything else! Can't say I've ever noticed this being a problem. If your shooting in pitch dark then framing is going to be guesswork in any case.

[Washington]

Thinking of a easy-compact way. Here’s a thought:

A light-weight flat ‘’clip’’ could be made that just slips over the top of the body with

front section shaped to cover the frame-line window. Applied to front ‘’cover’’ (facing

in naturally) would be tape made with Strontium Aluminates which are used in industry

because such emits light for a very long time. See below:

Strontium Aluminates ( Sr Al Eu )

Common pigments used in phosphorescent materials include zinc sulfide and strontium aluminate. Use of zinc sulfide for safety related products dates back to the 1930s. However, the development of strontium oxide aluminate, with a luminance approximately 10 times greater than zinc sulfide, has relegated most zinc sulfide based products to the novelty category. Strontium oxide aluminate based pigments are now used in exit signs, pathway marking, and other safety related signage.

 

Just now the problem is to get a little bit of the stuff.. see screen-shot below:

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