Stealth3kpl Posted June 11, 2011 Share #1 Posted June 11, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Just when I thought I'd found a new care-free mistress to play with in the dark I find that Diafine used me cruely and walked out on me. Here is Acros at 100 and developed at about 72 or 74F. Contrast and exposure seems good. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Here is Acros shot at 200 (as recommended). The negatives are dark and the scan looks over exposed with poor contrast. The only difference in development was that I was too trusting and left her jugs warming in the bath too long. Did I get her too hot resulting in over development? Did I mistreat her and she's got her revenge? Pete Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Here is Acros shot at 200 (as recommended). The negatives are dark and the scan looks over exposed with poor contrast. The only difference in development was that I was too trusting and left her jugs warming in the bath too long. Did I get her too hot resulting in over development? Did I mistreat her and she's got her revenge? Pete ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/153993-diafine-disaster/?do=findComment&comment=1699172'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 11, 2011 Posted June 11, 2011 Hi Stealth3kpl, Take a look here Diafine Disaster. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Stealth3kpl Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share #2 Posted June 11, 2011 Mmm, it looks like the developer was too warm. I've just run off 5 shots and developed at 72F for 6 mins (accidentally) in A and 5mins in B and the negs look much better. Now drying on radiator. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share #3 Posted June 11, 2011 Ok, I think the developer was too hot when it all went wrong. Moral: temperature matters no matter what you read on the net Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/153993-diafine-disaster/?do=findComment&comment=1699292'>More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted June 11, 2011 Share #4 Posted June 11, 2011 The activity of the developer is a direct function of the temperature of the developer. It has been that way since Archimedes and it is not about to change. Get a completely reproduceable system and do it exactly the same every time. Including temperature, amount of solution, and agitation. Keep all solutions at the same temperature. To quote the mighty Fred Picker, "Different is not the same". As a help in maintaining temperature, I make sure the room is at the temperature I need. That avoids temperature drift. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted June 11, 2011 Share #5 Posted June 11, 2011 Film development is about doing the same thing every time, every time, every time. Get a thermometer, better two and check them. Count the agitations, watch the clock, submerge the film the same way every time. Fred also said "never pour anything back into a bottle". That lets out Diafine for me. You need consistency, Take 6 exposure on 12" of film and develop it. Vary the EI and see what provides sufficient shadow detail. Then watch the TIME to see what gets the right contrast. Do not change agitation to change contrast. You can take pics of your house, stereo speakers, car or cat. Just use something always available with same lighting. THERE IS NO GETTING AROUND INITIAL SET UP. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted June 11, 2011 Share #6 Posted June 11, 2011 Film development is about doing the same thing every time, every time, every time. Get a thermometer, better two and check them. Count the agitations, watch the clock, submerge the film the same way every time. Fred also said "never pour anything back into a bottle". That lets out Diafine for me. You need consistency, Take 6 exposure on 12" of film and develop it. Vary the EI and see what provides sufficient shadow detail. Then watch the TIME to see what gets the right contrast. Do not change agitation to change contrast. You can take pics of your house, stereo speakers, car or cat. Just use something always available with same lighting. THERE IS NO GETTING AROUND INITIAL SET UP. EXACTLY RIGHT! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share #7 Posted June 16, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Take 6 exposure on 12" of film and develop it. Vary the EI and see what provides sufficient shadow detail. Then watch the TIME to see what gets the right contrast.. I've done as above. These scans are straight from the scanner with black and white points adjusted but no other contrast curve adjustment. The first of each is EI200 but I'm wondering if I should be exposing the Across at EI400 when using Diafine (the second scan of each image). What do you think? Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/153993-diafine-disaster/?do=findComment&comment=1704517'>More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share #8 Posted June 16, 2011 Pete Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/153993-diafine-disaster/?do=findComment&comment=1704519'>More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share #9 Posted June 16, 2011 Having said that, with a small contrast curve to the former of each (EI200) I think the overall contrast shadow detail might be better as seen in these crops Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Do you agree? Pete Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Do you agree? Pete ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/153993-diafine-disaster/?do=findComment&comment=1704535'>More sharing options...
tgray Posted June 17, 2011 Share #10 Posted June 17, 2011 When I used Diafine more, I never cared about times or temps. Just make sure you do an inversion cycle in the second bath every minute. When I got too lazy about the inversions, I got some bromide drag. The thing I found about Diafine is that sometimes you did get some unexpected results in different lighting. Since you can't really control contrast in the development stage, and the contrast on the developed negative depends on the initial exposure, you can modify your final contrast in two ways: 1. In the 'printing' stage. Either with contrast filters or good old fashioned curves in your image editing software. Nothing wrong with doing this. 2. By changing your exposure. If you have a really flat scene, shoot it at a higher EI. If you have a really contrasty scene, shoot it at a lower EI. Of course, if you are scanning, which you are, Diafine is a lot more workable. You can pretty much adjust any result into something decent. In your examples above that look over exposed/flat, you probably could have gotten away with EI 400 or so. No worries though - just hit it with some curves like you did and enjoy the insane shadow detail All in all, I don't think low contrast scenes are probably Diafine's forte. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted June 19, 2011 Share #11 Posted June 19, 2011 Take notice of this data sheet: http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Diafine-data.pdf and Acros 100 you have to give an E.I. of 160 and develop in Diafine for 5+5 minutes and within the temperature range of 21C - 24C. Then you will have the best result in this 2 bath developer. Best regards, Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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