stunsworth Posted May 2, 2011 Share #21 Posted May 2, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I'd certainly +1 regarding a liquid fixer. I always used a stop bath - kills the development and extends the life of the fixer - but the great thing about B&W is that it's very easy for an individual to find out their personnel preference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 2, 2011 Posted May 2, 2011 Hi stunsworth, Take a look here Which kind of film I should use?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Guido Posted May 2, 2011 Share #22 Posted May 2, 2011 I don't think it's a good idea to use XTol as your very first developer. I'd suggest one of the ready-made liquid developers instead to get started. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 2, 2011 Share #23 Posted May 2, 2011 I agree. Ilford DDX or Kodak HC110 is the way that I would recommend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share #24 Posted May 2, 2011 I have found the website about the XTOL. I thought we can use this for Kodax TriX400 and ILFord FP4+ 125 as well. Is that correct? KODAK XTOL Developer: TABLE 3, Roll Films Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/150766-which-kind-of-film-i-should-use/?do=findComment&comment=1661825'>More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted May 2, 2011 Share #25 Posted May 2, 2011 I only mentioned Xtol because that's what I used. All the films you mention in the previous post can be developed in any of the developers that have been mentioned Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
E.M Posted May 2, 2011 Share #26 Posted May 2, 2011 I tried to buy some Kodak T-400CN last saturday , but was told that Kodak no longer make it . What a pity , I loved that film @ 2oo iso . I bought some T-max 1oo instead , guess I'll have to start processing myself again , which I did a lot before , but don't like it anymore . Maybe I could try the Ilford version ... Etienne Michiels Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted May 2, 2011 Share #27 Posted May 2, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have found the website about the XTOL. I thought we can use this for Kodax TriX400 and ILFord FP4+ 125 as well. Is that correct? KODAK XTOL Developer: TABLE 3, Roll Films I've been buying stuff here mainly Black & White Chemicals Lots of options here Fine Grain Each developer's page often has a link to the manufacturers PDF on its use. eg http://wwwuk.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j109/j109.pdf Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPerson Posted May 2, 2011 Share #28 Posted May 2, 2011 You can process C-41 B&W films in regular B&W developers as well. I love XP2 in Diafine and Rodinal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share #29 Posted May 2, 2011 I've been buying stuff here mainlyBlack & White Chemicals Lots of options here Fine Grain Each developer's page often has a link to the manufacturers PDF on its use. eg http://wwwuk.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j109/j109.pdf Pete That website is very cool! I have placed my order. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guido Posted May 2, 2011 Share #30 Posted May 2, 2011 I tried to buy some Kodak T-400CN last saturday , but was told that Kodak no longer make it . What a pity , I loved that film @ 2oo iso . I bought some T-max 1oo instead , guess I'll have to start processing myself again , which I did a lot before , but don't like it anymore . Maybe I could try the Ilford version ... Etienne Michiels Strange... BW400CN seems readily available to me in all online shops I normally use. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted May 2, 2011 Share #31 Posted May 2, 2011 I tried to buy some Kodak T-400CN last saturday , but was told that Kodak no longer make it . What a pity , I loved that film @ 2oo iso . I bought some T-max 1oo instead , guess I'll have to start processing myself again , which I did a lot before , but don't like it anymore . Maybe I could try the Ilford version ... Etienne Michiels You were told a pack of lies. You can even buy it in Boots on 3 for 2 Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wattsy Posted May 3, 2011 Share #32 Posted May 3, 2011 It's not a "pack of lies", just a misunderstanding or someone being a bit pedantic. T400 CN is the old name for BW400CN and has indeed, in that sense, been discontinued. As far as I know the films are identical. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 3, 2011 Share #33 Posted May 3, 2011 You can process C-41 B&W films in regular B&W developers as well. I love XP2 in Diafine and Rodinal. Yes Ive batched fuji color C41 in with HP5 & Rodinal, the excuse both cassettes are green in poor light. The mask layer is still orange... Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 3, 2011 Share #34 Posted May 3, 2011 To be honest, reading back through this thread, I would say that the advice to Vo is pretty confusing. Processing C41 film in Xtol is NOT the way that a newcomer to film should be going. That way, madness lies, IMHO. Vo, Here is my advice. Take it or leave it as you see fit 1. There are two basic types of negative film. There are traditional silver-based films, such as Kodak Tri-X, Ilford Pan F+, Ilford HP5 and there are those films which are basically modified colour negative films, such as BW400CN. These latter films use a process known as C41. 2. If you use the traditional films, it is very easy and cheap to process at home. 3. If you use the C41 films, as a beginner, it is much better to find a decent processor on the High Street, or by post, and have them process the films on your behalf. They will also be able to do a basic low-res scan for you at the same time. I would recommend the following as a good place to start your own B&W film adventure. You will need to spend about £75 to buy the basic equipment that you will need - this will last a lifetime. Use Kodak Tri-X film. Rate it in your camera at ISO 320 Use Kodak HC110 developer, made to dilution B, and process at 20 degrees C, for 6 1/2 minutes. Agitate by swirling the developer for 10 seconds, every minute. Use Kodak Stop Bath, diluted as recommended for 30 seconds Use Ilford Rapid Fixer, dilution 1:4, for 5 minutes Wash the film in accordance with the "Ilford Method" (search on-line) Hang to dry slowly in a warm, dust free place You will then have negatives that both scan very well, and wet print nicely too. As with many things in life, "KISS" should be your watchword. Only use one film, one developer and one technique until you have completely cracked it. Only then try a different film (in the same developer), and repeat until you have cracked that too. Repeat until you find the film/developer combination that you really like and stick with it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted May 3, 2011 Share #35 Posted May 3, 2011 The only think I would add to Andy's post is that you will grin from ear to ear when you remove the film from the developing tank. And remember, developer goes in the tank before fixer <grin>. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 3, 2011 Share #36 Posted May 3, 2011 Every time I remove a film from the tank (just before washing), I grin . It doesn't take long to recognise a nicely exposed and processed film, still on the reel. If you keep the whole workflow consistent, and don't make any silly mistakes (!), you will get perfect results every time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 3, 2011 Share #37 Posted May 3, 2011 Hi Vo If you look at the M8 and M6 shutter you will see that the white patch is different shape. The M6 (semi spot reading area) requires you to understand what an average reflected light meter reading should be taken from. The M6 instruction manual which is available as a PDF is necessary reading for extreme subjects. Noel P.S. http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=31 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted May 3, 2011 Share #38 Posted May 3, 2011 Andy, I think you mean Ilford Rapid Fixer, not Stop, just to avoid further confusion! But very good advice. Processing a traditional B&W film is no more difficult than making a coffee. In fact you can do both at the same time! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 3, 2011 Share #39 Posted May 3, 2011 Andy, I think you mean Ilford Rapid Fixer, not Stop, just to avoid further confusion! I do. Previous post edited - thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share #40 Posted May 4, 2011 I have some more question please. 1. Can I use tap water to mix film developer? (Tap water may contains some types of chemicals like: Clo, Fluoride) 2. Can I use the woody stick to stir the powder? 3. Should I put 20C water to warm the tank up before I put developer into tank? 4. After fixer, should I put some soap and use tap water to clean film in the tank? 5. Do we hang the wet film immediately or need something to dry it before hanging out? 6. Do we need agitation in Bath Stop and Fixer? Thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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