bpalme Posted April 21, 2011 Share #1 Posted April 21, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Took me about 10 minutes with tape, ballpoint pen and a marker. I know you veterans know about his stuff so this is for my fellow Newbs. Here's the codes: Leica M Lens Codes Old thread: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m8-forum/10494-proof-concept-regarding-self-coding-lenses.html I had to erase and redo a couple times as the black marks must be perfectly aligned. Also no need to make a white mark just black. Cheers, Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 21, 2011 Posted April 21, 2011 Hi bpalme, Take a look here Just did the magic marker 6 bit code.. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
k-hawinkler Posted April 21, 2011 Share #2 Posted April 21, 2011 Brian, Congratulations and thanks for the info. Best, K-H. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elgenper Posted April 22, 2011 Share #3 Posted April 22, 2011 Works like a charm - for ten lens changes or so... Then it has to be done again. I´m one of those ´morons´ who finally took a Dremel and some enamel paint to my old, beat-up ´60es lenses left over from my M2 days. Can´t recommend it for everybody, but now they´re correctly and permanently coded (and probably lost some of their resale value; only, I don´t plan to part with them.). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k-hawinkler Posted April 22, 2011 Share #4 Posted April 22, 2011 Hi Per, I don't buy that old coded lenses would lose some of their resale value. At least me personally, I would prefer to buy coded lenses in the first place. Best, K-H. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elgenper Posted April 22, 2011 Share #5 Posted April 22, 2011 Hi Per, I don't buy that old coded lenses would lose some of their resale value. At least me personally, I would prefer to buy coded lenses in the first place. Best, K-H. Agreed, as far as functionality goes. Only, there would be the nagging suspicion that either somebody dismantled the lens to get the mount free to work on, or did it in place and had some metal filings escape into the lens barrel.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted April 22, 2011 Share #6 Posted April 22, 2011 Not to mention debris from the Dremel cutter head, in the heliciod threads. But who would want to buy a lens that has been used on a D camera... Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted April 22, 2011 Share #7 Posted April 22, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) If you're buying any new lenses, they are all coded now, Noel. I wouldn't be so sniffy about what camera they have been on Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
epand56 Posted April 22, 2011 Share #8 Posted April 22, 2011 I had my Lux 35 asph and Elmarit 90/2.8 6-bit permanently coded by Will van Manen at a not at all expensive cost. The coded mount almost looks like an origina Leica one and it works like a charm. A very professional work, I'm happy like a kid. Maybe in the future I will code a couple more lenses, maybe my Elmar 50/2.8 collapsible and the Elmar-C 90/4. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted April 22, 2011 Share #9 Posted April 22, 2011 Agreed, as far as functionality goes. Only, there would be the nagging suspicion that either somebody dismantled the lens to get the mount free to work on, or did it in place and had some metal filings escape into the lens barrel.... Obviously there will be the occasional buffoon, but at least coding a lens yourself shows some sense of mechanical aptitude. Now, who would you rather buy a camera or lens from, somebody who understands mechanisms and can work on them and use them carefully, or somebody who happily says they have no mechanical sympathy for equipment? Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k-hawinkler Posted April 22, 2011 Share #10 Posted April 22, 2011 I agree with Enrico and have the coding done professionally. Whether an optician is engaging a machinist for the machining work is really his/her problem. I am counting on the qualified technician to return the newly coded lens properly adjusted. Best, K-H. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washington Posted April 22, 2011 Share #11 Posted April 22, 2011 Probably how well and neat the Dremel was used. Just yesterday I noticed a set of small, assorted shape, diamond grit burrs made by another company… but with shafts the right size for the Dremel chucks. These would be a lot easier to control that any fluted edged bit! A very neat job is much more possible! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted April 22, 2011 Share #12 Posted April 22, 2011 Probably how well and neat the Dremel was used. Just yesterday I noticed a set ofsmall, assorted shape, diamond grit burrs made by another company… but with shafts the right size for the Dremel chucks. These would be a lot easier to control that any fluted edged bit! A very neat job is much more possible! They are easier to work with, providing they are of high quality. The cheap ones wear out in moments. One trick is to get the Dremel 220-01 Rotary Tool Work Station, then you can be assured off a straight angle and depth control. This bit helps when cutting at an angle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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