Double Negative Posted May 24, 2011 Share #21 Posted May 24, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Just finished an article, "Shooting in the Dark" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 Hi Double Negative, Take a look here M8 + high ISO + low light shooting. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
farnz Posted May 24, 2011 Share #22 Posted May 24, 2011 Just finished an article, "Shooting in the Dark" Incidentally, ISO 25,600 is not the cutting edge anymore; it's ISO 102,400 on the Nikon D3 now. (But I understand what you're getting at.) Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted May 26, 2011 Share #23 Posted May 26, 2011 The M9 FAQ are very useful for M8 owners as well: Sharpening slider. Set for the optimum detail separation (normally between about 10 and 40), never mind that you seem to increase the noise, in conjunction with the next I would recommend to not to use the sharpening build into the ARC and LR RAW converters, seems to me sharpening is best done as the last stage of PP and targeted at the intended use; print, web, poster or whatever. Low Light Shooting Choose type of lens and focal length for the subject matter and with regard to the low light properties, aspherical, low coma etc. Set the Aperture for needed depth of field. Set the Speed for what is needed to freeze the action or use some kind of support or monopod/tripod. Set the ISO as high as you dare for what the intended use, again; print, web, poster or whatever. Consider if Noise reduction software is an option, Noise Ninja (On Nikon D3 just set to Auto ISO) Not enough light, consider fill flash, or go for the full flash setup. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted May 26, 2011 Share #24 Posted May 26, 2011 Incorrect. 1.Capture sharpening in raw conversion and noise reduction. 2. Creative sharpening in post-processing 3. Output sharpening is a mathematical excercise. Trying to cram 1. and 2. in no. 3 is a virtually sure recipe for a missharpened image in the end. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted May 26, 2011 Share #25 Posted May 26, 2011 Incorrect Capture sharpening in raw conversion and noise reduction in one step, is a virtually sure recipe for a missharpened image to start off with IMHO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted May 26, 2011 Share #26 Posted May 26, 2011 Incorrect again . Follow the order of the sliders ( from CS5/LR3 preferably) Sharpening and noise reduction in raw conversion is a two-step process, but the two are interacting. A good read on the subject is Real World Sharpening by Schewe and Fraser. Martin Evening has some relevant parts in his books as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randle P. McMurphy Posted May 26, 2011 Share #27 Posted May 26, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Rule 3: One glass of whisky will steady your hands enough to get a proper exposure. Rule 3(2): After a bottle of whisky you dosen´t care about exposure any more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randle P. McMurphy Posted May 26, 2011 Share #28 Posted May 26, 2011 I was a real fan of Noise Ninja for years. A few months ago I used a trial version of TOPAZ DENOISE and bought it. It has much better intuitive control than Noise Ninja and produces better results. I prever the old fasioned analog way - use a tripod and don´t care about bad resolution with high ISO - only problem ist to find a trial version of it. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted May 26, 2011 Share #29 Posted May 26, 2011 Incorrect again . Follow the order of the sliders ( from CS5/LR3 preferably) Sharpening and noise reduction in raw conversion is a two-step process, but the two are interacting. A good read on the subject is Real World Sharpening by Schewe and Fraser. Martin Evening has some relevant parts in his books as well. All I Can say is that CS3-5 gave me som terrible results, I investigated and found the sharpening to be the reason, all the PRO users of Adobe Photoshop I know turn off sharpening in ARC. The order of the rulers doesnt dictate the order of the software processing, unless Adobe has rewriten the program. I have now mostly turned to other RAW converters. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted May 26, 2011 Share #30 Posted May 26, 2011 I prever the old fasioned analog way - use a tripod and don´t care about bad resolution with high ISO - only problem ist to find a trial version of it. The trial version only has two legs and a fence post. But it can ride a bicycle. Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted May 26, 2011 Share #31 Posted May 26, 2011 All I Can say is that CS3-5 gave me som terrible results, I investigated and found the sharpening to be the reason, all the PRO users of Adobe Photoshop I know turn off sharpening in ARC. The order of the rulers doesnt dictate the order of the software processing, unless Adobe has rewriten the program. I have now mostly turned to other RAW converters. CS3 was indeed not very good, and did give rise to one-step sharpening. But that is way in the past. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Negative Posted May 26, 2011 Share #32 Posted May 26, 2011 Very true, Pete. It wouldn't sound right though if I said "It's not uncommon to see ISO ratings of 102,400 now!" Because that speed is still a bit less common. Incidentally, ISO 25,600 is not the cutting edge anymore; it's ISO 102,400 on the Nikon D3 now. (But I understand what you're getting at.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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