michphoto Posted March 6, 2011 Share #1 Posted March 6, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi to all, not all that long from now, i'll be taking photos with an m6 classic en tri-x 400. But then there's this: I'm still studying, and have the opportunity to go to Sweden next year. (from feb-june). I wonder how to keep up with photography then. Can film resist such temperatures (0°C to -25°C)? Can my camera? Should I take extra precautions? thanks a lot:) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 6, 2011 Posted March 6, 2011 Hi michphoto, Take a look here Freezing temperatures and Leica gear. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
400TX Posted March 6, 2011 Share #2 Posted March 6, 2011 I have used my M cameras & lenses in temps in the 0' to -15' C range with no problems. Can't speak to long term use in -25' C, though. The two issues you have to worry about are (1.) film breakage due to brittleness from the cold - advance and rewind your film slowly and gently and (2.) condensation - when you bring your cold cameras & lenses indoors to a warm room, be sure to have them in your camera bag which must be completely zipped closed to keep warm air out. Let the cameras, lenses and bag warm gradually for 3-4 hours before opening to avoid condensation (yes, I know that this is not convenient sometimes - but it causes much less heartache than having the insides of your cameras & lenses wet from condensation). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesk8752 Posted March 6, 2011 Share #3 Posted March 6, 2011 Henry Scherer in California does winterization of cameras to operate properly in temperatures even lower than this. He specializes in Zeiss Ikon cameras (I have a winterized Contax IIIa RD from him) but he may be able to help you with your M body, either with advice or service. Google him if you are interested. Regards, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted March 6, 2011 Share #4 Posted March 6, 2011 If your camera and film are very cold, then I too would advise winding on gently, and slowly. The reasons for this are not only that film can become brittle when very cold, but also that fast winding can induce static discharges in cold dry air which could affect your film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adli Posted March 6, 2011 Share #5 Posted March 6, 2011 I've used M6, M8 and M9 in -20' Celsius without problems. Biggest challenge is not to get frozen nails. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
maurometallo Posted March 6, 2011 Share #6 Posted March 6, 2011 I live in Canada and I have brought my M4-P everywhere in the winter, at temperatures so severe that when I take my mittens off (gloves are pretty much useless at -25°C and below...) the camera is so cold she hurts your fingers and gets kind of stuck to yuor forehead... When all battery-operated devices are dead she keps on going, only fogs-up upon getting inside, but everything is OK in one hour time... Never "winterized" her; after all she was born in Midland, Ontario... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smkoush Posted March 7, 2011 Share #7 Posted March 7, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) In January I had a Leica MP and a 28mm Elmarit-M ASPH exposed to temperatures colder than -30C for about 4 hours. In that time, I shot 2 rolls of film, including having to stop, take the gloves off and change the film (not pleasant!). Focusing the lens was stiffer during that time (returned to buttery smooth normal action once it warmed up), but other than that I did not encounter any problems, other than work a little slower (winding, focusing, etc.). But you must take into account the earlier suggestion: when you finish, put your camera back in the bag, zip it and let it warm there, do not bring it in a warm/hot environment if it's equilibrated with very cold air. Savvas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted March 7, 2011 Share #8 Posted March 7, 2011 I have a few camera that I leave in my wife's car. Her commute is so short that they never warm. When we do travel, they warm and dry in an *air-conditioned environment. I've always got cameras ready for the weather. * In the Winter, our car's air-conditioning kicks-in to dry the air coming into the cabin - and through a HEPA filter, no less. Too simple? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted March 7, 2011 Share #9 Posted March 7, 2011 Well, I live there. I have never had any problems with mechanical cameras in temps down around –20°C. I endorse the things said about condensation. Cameras with battery-dependent operation, including digital cameras, can make trouble when the battery current drops due to the cold, but with a fully charged battery, a M9 works fine at c. –10. And this winter, which has been a long and snowy one, day temperatures have seldom dropped further than that. The proximity of the North Atlantic sees to that. Sweden is a large country, for Europe, about the size and orientation of California. So the climate you encounter may vary widely. On a "normal" winter, there is usually no snow cover in southern Sweden, while up in the far north you may have three meters of snow in places. And below 10, your functioning is just as problematic as that of the camera. Use finger-less mittens with thinner finger gloves inside (preferably silk or synthetic). Remove the outer mittens for shooting, and put them on again before your fingers fall off. When changing film, it is often tempting to hold the baseplate between your teeth. Hold it upside down, with the hollow inside pointing down. Otherwise, saliva may gather and freeze on the baseplate, making it impossible to put it back on. The warning about getting your camera permanently frozen to your face is also pertinent. Very inconvenient, that. I know of people who have tacked pieces of sleeping pad material to the backs of their M cameras to avoid that. But that was on an expedition to Siberia ... The old man from the winters that froze the arse off the Wehrmacht Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 7, 2011 Share #10 Posted March 7, 2011 Henry Scherer in California does winterization of cameras to operate properly in temperatures even lower than this. He specializes in Zeiss Ikon cameras (I have a winterized Contax IIIa RD from him) but he may be able to help you with your M body, either with advice or service. Google him if you are interested. Regards, Jim Problem with winterized cameras is that the become quite rattly to unusable in summer. It should not be neccessary with modern lubricants. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elgenper Posted March 7, 2011 Share #11 Posted March 7, 2011 You won´t need winterizing in Sweden, not even this winter... I´ve used cameras of differing makes and ages down to once -30 deg C (that was an old Leicaflex SL), and recently around -20 deg C (my M9). Only problem was a Rollei SL66, a monster MF SLR, which froze up already around -3 deg C. Common sense applies: Don´t breathe on the camera. Wind and rewind film slowly (brittleness isn´t the problem; static discharge is). Wrap up a cold camera when going indoors to prevent condensation, and don´t try to keep it under your clothing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted March 7, 2011 Share #12 Posted March 7, 2011 You won´t need winterizing in Sweden, not even this winter... I´ve used cameras of differing makes and ages down to once -30 deg C (that was an old Leicaflex SL), and recently around -20 deg C (my M9). Only problem was a Rollei SL66, a monster MF SLR, which froze up already around -3 deg C. Common sense applies: Don´t breathe on the camera. Wind and rewind film slowly (brittleness isn´t the problem; static discharge is). Wrap up a cold camera when going indoors to prevent condensation, and don´t try to keep it under your clothing. Se does not get that cold, (colder then UK though) but the camera lubricant and internal exposed metal wont like the internal to camera condensation when you bring the camera indoors to triple glazing central heated shop or homes. Zip lockplastic bags with silica gel dessincant in bag will help. You insert camers while outside & seal bag, if you dont you will need a CLA sooner than otherwise. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeicaPassion Posted March 7, 2011 Share #13 Posted March 7, 2011 When I shot north of Fairbanks, Alaska at minus 50F, I would seal the body and lenses in zip lock bags, park the car in the garage (0F) for a few hours and then bring the sealed equipment inside to warm up further. No condensation problems. The R bodies became a little a sluggish after 3 or 4 hours outside but the pictures were fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesk8752 Posted March 8, 2011 Share #14 Posted March 8, 2011 Problem with winterized cameras is that the become quite rattly to unusable in summer. It should not be neccessary with modern lubricants. Henry does his winterization with very costly lubricants designed to work in Arctic conditions, rather than fiddling with the mechanicals. He claims that his work will allow the Contax to perform in heat or cold for many years. I haven't put my IIIa to the test... Regards, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 8, 2011 Share #15 Posted March 8, 2011 That is very good. I don't think Leica winterizes any more but they used to do it by removing all lubricant and replacing it by a drop of thin oil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 8, 2011 Share #16 Posted March 8, 2011 We haven't really addressed the question about film in the cold, although Per mentioned it. Basically it is not a problem, but you must advance the film smoothly and gently. As mentioned above, it gets brittle and you may tear out the sprocket holes if you are not careful. And rewind slowly and carefully. Not only must you avoid breaking the film, if you go too fast static electricity may produce miniature lightning bolts which will imprint themselves on the film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeicaPassion Posted March 8, 2011 Share #17 Posted March 8, 2011 The film should be kept inside you coat to keep it warm before use. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted March 8, 2011 Share #18 Posted March 8, 2011 That is very good. I don't think Leica winterizes any more but they used to do it by removing all lubricant and replacing it by a drop of thin oil. Thats how the company I worked for did it in Canada in the 60s,for bodies that had to work outside all the time for a paper company, the shutter doesn't last all that long though! Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kleinfel@alaska.net Posted March 9, 2011 Share #19 Posted March 9, 2011 I've had no trouble here in Fairbanks, Alaska at temperatures to around 10 or 20 below fahrenheit with any of my mechanical Leicas, despite no special winter lubrication. Being out for two or three hours taking pictures of dog sled races goes fine, no problem at all. The electronic D-Lux 2 freezes up pretty fast, and I suspect anything battery dependent would. And LCD screens don't work well when cold. My guess is that the mechanical cameras would all work when it's colder, but I don't much feel like taking pictures outside when it's colder. I do not change film outside, and give the camera hours or overnight to warm up when I get back inside. And when not shooting, I zip my parka over instead of under the camera so that it gets body warmth. Your hands are fine for the minute or so you're shooting, even in severe cold. Just put your mittens back on after you shoot. And wind the film slowly - it gets brittle in the cold. If you were going on a multiday dog sled ride or other lengthy outdoor activity, so that the camera would get to 40 or 50 below fahrenheit and stay there - well, I've never tried that, and wouldn't with a Leica. I did shoot without any difficulty at 40 below, but I was just out for a couple of hours before getting back in the car. The metal on cars gets brittle and breaks when it's that cold, so I would be concerned about shutters, diaphragms, film winders, gears etc. if the camera got "cold-soaked." Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greyelm Posted March 9, 2011 Share #20 Posted March 9, 2011 You may find the following of interest. I scanned it from a copy of Leica News & Technique February 1936, publihed by E.Leitz Ltd (London). Don't you just love those old Barnacks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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