kivis Posted January 21, 2011 Share #1 Posted January 21, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have watched all the you tubes, I have had friends show me, but when I am in the field, I usually can NOT load the film properly on my M3. very frustrating, what a loser (don't worry I have high self esteem) What is the trick? I just can not get the film to spool once it is loaded. others have no problem with MY unit. UGH!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 21, 2011 Posted January 21, 2011 Hi kivis, Take a look here I am a M3 loser!. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jc_braconi Posted January 21, 2011 Share #2 Posted January 21, 2011 What is the trick? Experience ....SO Try it again and again using an old film roll, until you get it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 21, 2011 Share #3 Posted January 21, 2011 Make sure the sprocket wheel engages the holes in the film before closing the back. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeicaBraz Posted January 21, 2011 Share #4 Posted January 21, 2011 Buy an M9. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 21, 2011 Share #5 Posted January 21, 2011 I have watched all the you tubes, I have had friends show me, but when I am in the field, I usually can NOT load the film properly on my M3. very frustrating, what a loser (don't worry I have high self esteem) What is the trick? I just can not get the film to spool once it is loaded. others have no problem with MY unit. UGH!! The M3 is the most secure of any M loading system (just IMO). Once your film is held by the clip there's no pulling it out. Your only risk after that is not locating the drive sprockets correctly and tearing the film's sprocket holes allowing the winder to operate, but not moving the film; but concentration at that point should solve it. I did use M3's for wedding photography until around 2005 when I introduced the MP into my kit, followed by an M7. They never felt as positive under the pressure of the day as the M3. One tip I offer is to use extra film spools and attach them to film in your pocket/bag readily for a super quick change. I carry film ready attached to the spool, or just out of the box, in a cheap zipped ladies make-up bag ready to go. Black one for B&W, coloured for err .... colour. With two film M's, I start thinking about opportunities to swap film out from about frame 28. i.e. I wouldn't exit the church by choice without having 20 frames left in each camera. Rolo p.s. If you've not already done it, don't miss the opportunity to reduce the minimum focus distance down to 0.7 metres. It's easy to do and is a valuable enhancement that costs nothing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 21, 2011 Share #6 Posted January 21, 2011 Hi You are omitting one of these steps... Do it at a coffee shop table until you are confident, unless you can juggle four balls. Remove baseplate, remove spool Push film into spool, the cassette and spool need to have the cylinder end poking out in same sense. flip back out, drop in cassette and spool, push in to bottom cassette and spool, into camera, the rewind knob may need to be rotated, to bottom cassette. The film needs to have been pulled out just enough to go around sprocket shaft, it is wound on in reverse, so would /should adhere to shaft for 90-120 degrees. Ease wind lever on gently to close the film holes on to shaft teeth. Hold thumb on sprocked shaft pinning film to a sprocket tooth so it does not move when you then tighten up film by rotating rewind knob in rewind direction, tighten this gently you are just taking up slack of the film inside the cassette, when you detect this film is tighten by feel or sound, stop, close back, attach baseplate and lock, wind on and shot until you reach zero. The rewind knob inner will turn immediately you wind on the first time... you need to practice until this happens every time. This is the easy way, a quick load kit is harder but you dont have to be able to juggle to do it walking, the M4 tulip about the same as quick load kit... Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 21, 2011 Share #7 Posted January 21, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) p.s. If you've not already done it, don't miss the opportunity to reduce the minimum focus distance down to 0.7 metres. It's easy to do and is a valuable enhancement that costs nothing. How do you you this exactly ? Thanks. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted January 22, 2011 Share #8 Posted January 22, 2011 Hello Avika S. Why not consider a quick load? I have used one on my M3 since the early 1970's w/ no problems. The reason some people don't use them is because you must pull down the spool to release the frame counter & realign the spool each time you change films. Much faster & easier to do than to thread an original spool. Some people don't use the alignment shoe or diagram on the base plate. I don't know why. I put mine on in the early !970's & they are still there looking good as new. The alignment shoe does the same thing its otherwise shaped cousins have done from later Barnacks skipping M's 1 thru 3 then beginning w/ 4's & continuing later. Think about it while you fumble w/ an original spool. It's like velcro instead of laces. Best Regards, Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted January 22, 2011 Share #9 Posted January 22, 2011 Part of the trick is to ensure the distance between the cassette and the take-up spool is correct, viz. the length of the camera, before you slot both into position. Check and double check the film is engaged properly in the sprockets before closing the swing-up back and baseplate. Although the M6 and other models with quick load can be faster, this step is critical. Then, engage rewind lever and turn the rewind knob gently to ensure the film is tensioned in the cassette. (Usually it is, so this step is not absolutely essential, but does give you a feel for how the film is running through the camera.) Now make sure shutter speed is on at least 1/30+, and fire off two-three shots and wind on until the film counter shows 1. Check after each exposure that the rewind knob is rotating as you wind on -- if it is, the film is loaded properly and you can shoot happily. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 22, 2011 Share #10 Posted January 22, 2011 How do you you this exactly ? Thanks.Tony "EXTENDING THE RANGE OF EARLIER M3 RANGEFINDERS : Not all M3 cameras can be adjusted to focus down to 0.7 metre . The early M3's just go to 1 meter . There is , on later M3's that only focus to 1 mtre , an extra lever in the throat of the camera that stops the roller arm coming out further . This can sometimes be straightened slightly so that the roller arm comes out further allowing focusing below 1 mtre . The reason that Leitz did this was because below 1 mtre the rangefinder and parallax correction was not as accurate. Some of the early M3's did not have this extra 'stop' and , whatever you read on the internet about extending the range , this is not true for all M3 's . There were 3 different rangefinders for the first design ( double stroke ) M3 , and the problem with extending the range is that the moving objective ( the lens that moves when you focus the camera ) hits the inside of the top-plate before it reaches 0.7 metre. If you check your camera , and look in the throat where the rangefinder roller arm is attached you may see a small lever that acts as a stop and hits the centre eccentric screw post . You will see that this is bent slightly. If you are very careful you may be able to bend this lever so that it is a little straighter and thus allow the roller to come further out." credit CRR. So, assuming you have lenses that focus below 1 metre then you can do this quite easily. All you need is a pair of good long nose plier and a little care. I last did this in 2005 but it made a big difference for me with head shots. Took 3 slight, gentle bends of the curved lever to get it down to 0.7m. Obviously doesn't help lenses that are limited to 1 metre, but state here to avoid the inevitable question. Rolo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomasis7 Posted January 22, 2011 Share #11 Posted January 22, 2011 i try guess what is problem when you reload by lever while back is open, push film surface on the plane so teeths take the film down then close the back. it works every time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted January 22, 2011 Share #12 Posted January 22, 2011 Hi Hold thumb on sprocked shaft pinning film to a sprocket tooth so it does not move when you then tighten up film by rotating rewind knob in rewind direction, This is the more important step IMHO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 22, 2011 Share #13 Posted January 22, 2011 This is the more important step IMHO Hi JC Learnt in school of hard knocks... Some people prefer the quick load kits, their real advantage is there is one less piece part to juggle and d***. They are like riding a bicycle as well... Best not to ask. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticman Posted January 22, 2011 Share #14 Posted January 22, 2011 Well, today (very tired and also distracted by my 2-year-old running round in circles singing) I did something so stupid with my M6 that I hesitate to confess to it: having used a CL for the last few weeks, I took a few shots with the M6 then turned it upside down to check the film was winding... (!) when I noticed that the lever underneath wasn't turning, I thought the film hadn't spooled correctly and opened it up. EVEN THEN I didn't comprehend what I saw (the film neatly spooled about 4 shots) and was grappling to get it out and try again. Took me a few minutes until it suddenly dawned on me that I was looking at an M6 locking switch, and not the CL's rewind crank. So we can all make stupid mistakes. Luckily in this case it was only 3 or 4 snapshots. Won't happen again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 22, 2011 Share #15 Posted January 22, 2011 Well, today (very tired and also distracted by my 2-year-old running round in circles singing) I did something so stupid with my M6 that I hesitate to confess to it: having used a CL for the last few weeks, I took a few shots with the M6 then turned it upside down to check the film was winding... (!) when I noticed that the lever underneath wasn't turning, I thought the film hadn't spooled correctly and opened it up. EVEN THEN I didn't comprehend what I saw (the film neatly spooled about 4 shots) and was grappling to get it out and try again. Took me a few minutes until it suddenly dawned on me that I was looking at an M6 locking switch, and not the CL's rewind crank. So we can all make stupid mistakes. Luckily in this case it was only 3 or 4 snapshots. Won't happen again! Hi When I wrote software I sometimes had to add comments '- this line is ok Ive changed it three times already', to prevent a fourth occurence... Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 22, 2011 Share #16 Posted January 22, 2011 I too had a bit of a nightmare tonight with my second film loading. I managed to panic and completely lost the plot, the film was about out of the canister for about five minutes before I managed to get it into the camera properly. Have I ruined the film guys? Thanks Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted January 22, 2011 Share #17 Posted January 22, 2011 If this is real, do not try loading a reel for developing. Hold the spool in right hand, film in left, both with pegs up. slide leader into spool. Poke spool into camera and stretch film can back until it falls into place. Engage sprocket wheel . advance 1/2 frame to be sure film is transporting and is against the inner rails. Take up tension by rewinding slack, no more, Close back, replace bottom. Finish first frame + 2 more watching to see the rewind moves so you know film is moving. Take 36 beautiful pics. Push rewind lever down, Wind CC until film goes back into can. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
giordano Posted January 22, 2011 Share #18 Posted January 22, 2011 Why not consider a quick load? I have used one on my M3 since the early 1970's w/ no problems. I'd like to have known your secret when I had M2s in the 70s and 80s. I could never get the knack of getting the quick load spool to catch the film right first time. Often it took me two or three goes to get it right - so on average it was slower than using the standard spool. OTOH I've never had any problems with the "tulip" spool on the later Ms. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted January 23, 2011 Share #19 Posted January 23, 2011 Hello John, The quickload is like an MC Meter. Easy to put on the camera & use once you figure it out. The quickload itself comes w/ a small diagram but no directions. Luckily I am an empiricist (I hope I can spell) so what I did to learn to use the quickload was to try it over & over again a number of different ways to see what would happen until I was able to figure it out. This taught me to always keep an already exposed to the light roll of film still in its original cartridge to test w/ w/ my photo things. First rewind the exposed film in the same manner you would if you were using a standard spool. Stop rewinding when you feel the film slip free of the takeup spool. Turn 1 turn more complete turn. Then STOP. The film is now rewound w/ a small portion protruding out of the cartridge. Open the bottom & remove the film in the usual manner. Fire the shutter. Pull down the the little chrome plated tube in the takeup spool. Pull gently until you hear a click. This will be when the takeup spool releases from the wind shaft. It is a friction fit. What you just heard was the release of the exposure count wheel under the cyclops. This happens when the flyback is released by moving the takeup spool a sufficient ammount to disengage it from the winding shaft. It is now loose. There is no need to move the takeup spool any further out of the camera than this altho on occasion I do in order to check for film chips,etc & also to check the general condition of the interior. Now for the easy part. All the hard work is done. Leaving the takeup spool @ the point where it has just released from the wind shaft or after putting it back there after checking the camera take your right thumb (Note: Leica M's are blatently right handed) & put it gently into the wide part of the takeup spool opening. Now put the takeup spool w/ your thumb in it into the camera so that your thumb is in the space between where the film leaves the guide rails & goes into the takeup spool. Looking @ it from the bottom the short leg of the pickup swirl should be pointing to 9 o'clock. If not put it there. Push gently until the takeup spool stops. To load: Put the new roll of film in the cartridge chamber w/ enough film pulled out to just reach past the center of the pickup spool. Then put the film into the swirl of the spool w/ the end stoppping @ about 3 o'clock. Where in the swirl to put it varies w/ the thickness of the specific film. 3 o'clock is probably a good place to start experimenting w/ a lot of films. Push gently until you see the film properly placed in terms of the guide rails. This is best done w/ the back flipped up. Snug up the film w/ the rewind gently until it grabs. Close the back. Advance the film watching the center of the rewind shaft to make sure it is turning. Snug up the film. Fire shutter. Advance again still watching the rewind shaft. Snug a second time. Fire shutter. You are done. Please read my Post above in this Thread about the alignment shoe & stick on diagram most Leicas have used from later Barnacks to today. Best Regards, Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguewave Posted January 23, 2011 Share #20 Posted January 23, 2011 Here's how I learned with my first M3. I was first partnered with a NYC based staff photographer at UPI . He told me I was too slow & I if I didn't get better quick I could just F.. off. Being 21 & wanting this job, I got motivated. He sat me down & demonstrated the technique: Get at least 3 rolls that you can toss when you are done. Take the first & in daylight, just keep repeating the process. 2) Learn to do this in the dark. Go into a small room with no windows or light. Let your fingers tell you everything. You should never need to look at the camera again. I shot 100's of rolls in the early 70's covering fires in NYC. Often times, there was little to no light and you always wanted to have your head up so you could look around & see what's happening. The tactile intelligence works the best. Always check the rewind knob with your left pinky to make sure the film's advancing, so you don't lose concentration on what you're shooting. The bathroom thing works the best because you keep your eyes OPEN, even though you are in the dark. After a number of times this becomes like breathing. There's no short cut, just a highly repetitive process that your fingers learn & remember. You will make many mistakes, but after a while, it's like riding a bike. Good Luck Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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