Digital user new to Film... stupid questions

[animefx]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I feel like an idiot even asking these questions but when I first got into photography I started using point & shoots digital from Nikon, Casio, and Canon. Eventually I worked my way up to DSLRs 20d, 40d, and when it was release 5D Mark 2. Anyway, I've NEVER shot film except for a Pentax I owned a very LONG ago. I forgot how to load film, the rules as far as when I can open and take the film out, how to store film before I shoot it, and everything.

 

I plan on buying a used Leica CL pretty soon because it fits within my current budget and someday I'll have a Leica m8, m8.2, m9, or m10, but not for quite sometime. I love the look films gives you and its very different from the files I get on my 5D2. Not any worse or any better, just different. Anyway, I was wondering if someone could tell me what I need to know about loading film into a Leica CL, and what I need to watch for... How do I wind it? What do I need to do before the film is taken out?

 

Sorry, I know this sounds pretty dumb but realize I've worked with only digital up until now, and I don't want to ruin any film when I get my camera.

 

Another question is... If I buy say iso 400 film, can I use settings at less than iso 400 for some shots? or are my only settings being changed are aperture and shutter, and the iso of the film is fixed?

 

Also, when I'm done with a roll are there any services I can mail it to and have them scan each shot in extremely high resolution as a TIF file? I would rather it be TIF so I can do the necessary editing (if there is any needed) in photoshop before having to save to JPG and lose quality. Is it possible to use a service to get TIF files made of the negatives without actually ordering prints? I might want to print the JPGs or TIFs later myself rather than spend the money.

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[caimi]

animafx,

 

Type "Leica CL Instruction manual" into your search engine and it will turn up a PDF of the entire CL manual, You can then download and save it or print it. I'm sure it contains instructions on loading the CL. Have fun!

[St.Valentine]

Another question is... If I buy say iso 400 film, can I use settings at less than iso 400 for some shots? or are my only settings being changed are aperture and shutter, and the iso of the film is fixed?

 

You have to set your ISO at the start of each film. It is possible to "push" or "pull" film when developing but that goes for a complete roll of film. You can´t change ISO mid-roll like with a digital cam.

It´s best to stay with the indicated ISO at first allthough some labs might offer a "push/pull" service.

 

Good luck!

 

Frank

[tobey bilek]

Since you like the look of film, make your digi file film like.

 

Apply an S contrast curve.

 

Add some "grain", color or monochrome available on a new layer.

 

Make it sharp or soft.

 

Go to "blend if" and block the grain from the shadows and highlight. Hold down option key and split the sliderto make a softer tranition. Adjust layer opacity to show how pronounced the grain you want.

 

Tone with a gradient filter on new layer and experiment with blending mode. Soft light works well for me usually.

 

The lazy way is Nik Silver Effects Pro. You will not separate it from film and save a whole bunch of trouble.

 

Possibilities are endless and you will save a ton of money..

[Pindy]

You have to set your ISO at the start of each film. It is possible to "push" or "pull" film when developing but that goes for a complete roll of film. You can´t change ISO mid-roll like with a digital cam.

 

Frank

 

Actually, I get really good results with XP-2 variably set between about 100 & 640. Same roll!

[aesop]

Actually, I get really good results with XP-2 variably set between about 100 & 640. Same roll!

 

 

...you beat me to it, Pindy.

 

Frank, Ilford's XP2 Plus is a chromogenic film with very wide exposure latitude. It has an ISO rating of 400 but can be exposed over the range of EI 50-800 (EI = Exposure Index, which is the film's effective speed). The wide latitude permits mid-roll film speed changes within EI 50-800, without any adverse effects.

 

It is the one exception to the "mid-roll speed change" rule that I can think of, and I have actually shot XP2 Plus at EI 1600 with acceptable results.

 

C41 processing is recommended by Ilford, but I once tried conventional B&W processing. Yup, you guessed it - forget golf balls, we're talking minor asteroids here . Definitely not for the meek.

[Pindy]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

...you beat me to it, Pindy.

 

It is the one exception to the "mid-roll speed change" rule that I can think of, and I have actually shot XP2 Plus at EI 1600 with acceptable results.

.

 

It's Wonder Film. Nice to know I'm not the only one.

[aesop]

It's Wonder Film. Nice to know I'm not the only one.

 

 

...my one gripe is that very few high street labs are able to produce true black and white prints - "I suspect we both know I did not ask for a sepia nor blue tint. Is there something you need to tell me?"

[mod2001]

You will not separate it from film and save a whole bunch of trouble.

 

.

 

Only, if you're not familar with film, especially b/w film looks different imho.

 

Yogi

[animefx]

Is C41 processing just an alternate method of film developing? If so, where would I take it (or send it) to have it done? I assume Walgreens and Walmart will not handle that? Also is it exclusive to slide film or regular film?

 

The other thing I wasn't sure about is film size. I assume I need 135 but I hear people mention 120 as well... What's the difference?

 

Thanks for any help you can offer guys. I did a "Buy it now" on eBay and got a Leica CL (Minolta version) tonight for $575 with the Rokkor 40mm f/2 included. I wish it was summicron-c but I guess they are nearly identical. I've always wanted a rangefinder and I'll have one come Saturday!

[aesop]

Is C41 processing just an alternate method of film developing? If so, where would I take it (or send it) to have it done? I assume Walgreens and Walmart will not handle that? Also is it exclusive to slide film or regular film?

 

The other thing I wasn't sure about is film size. I assume I need 135 but I hear people mention 120 as well... What's the difference?

 

Thanks for any help you can offer guys. I did a "Buy it now" on eBay and got a Leica CL (Minolta version) tonight for $575 with the Rokkor 40mm f/2 included. I wish it was summicron-c but I guess they are nearly identical. I've always wanted a rangefinder and I'll have one come Saturday!

 

...apologies for my lack of clarity, animefx.

 

C41 is the colour negative developing process used by most high street labs (including Walgreens and Walmart). It is by far the most popular process for 35mm colour negative film (i.e. "regular" film). Slide film requires a totally different process from C41, unless you want to be adventurous.

 

You are correct about film size - you will need 135 film (also known as 35mm) for your Leica CL or Minolta CLE. 120 film is for medium format cameras and will be too big for your camera.

 

I have never used a CL but by all accounts, the Minolta M-Rokkor 40mm 2.0 is a cracking little lens. Hope you got a hood and lens cap to go with it. For further information the Minolta M-Rokkor 40mm 2.0 versus the Leitz Summicron-C 40mm 2.0, click here.

[earleygallery]

You can NEVER get the same results from digitals files as film. Maybe you can get something that looks a little similar but it won't be the same. Rather like artificial flavours.

 

Some of your questions have been answered above. Just to add, start off with a few rolls of XP2 to try it, you can have it processed at any Minilab 1 hour place as it uses exactly the same process as colour neg film.

.

I don't know why you need to change ISO mid roll - as mentioned the film has a wide latitude so you can under/over expose if necessary, but I'd try sticking to ISO400 knowing that you don't have to be 100% accurate. Google 'sunny 16' and try that instead of using the built in meter!

 

Once you're happy with using film again you could try 'proper' black and white film like HP5 or TRI X. Buy yourself a changing bag, film tank, developer/stop bath/fixer and wetting agent and process it yourself. Take a look at the Ilford film website for a good beginners guide to film processing. It's actually very quick and simple to do.

 

Have fun!

[aesop]

You can NEVER get the same results from digitals files as film. Maybe you can get something that looks a little similar but it won't be the same. Rather like artificial flavours.

 

Some of your questions have been answered above. Just to add, start off with a few rolls of XP2 to try it, you can have it processed at any Minilab 1 hour place as it uses exactly the same process as colour neg film.

.

I don't know why you need to change ISO mid roll - as mentioned the film has a wide latitude so you can under/over expose if necessary, but I'd try sticking to ISO400 knowing that you don't have to be 100% accurate. Google 'sunny 16' and try that instead of using the built in meter!

 

Once you're happy with using film again you could try 'proper' black and white film like HP5 or TRI X. Buy yourself a changing bag, film tank, developer/stop bath/fixer and wetting agent and process it yourself. Take a look at the Ilford film website for a good beginners guide to film processing. It's actually very quick and simple to do.

 

Have fun!

 

 

...never say never, James. Never.

[Xmas]

Hi

 

The CL instruction book should be enough for operating the camera. loading and unloading the film at the end.

 

There are four types of film, dont worry about details just buy Ilford XP2, take it to mini lab, and when that say they cannot do it say 'yes you can it is a normal C41 film', the prints will be serpia or purple and one color, ignore this, get a CD RoM scan as well as prints.

 

I'd not bother with a CL is was a chepo Leica, get a M2 or M4-2 and a 2nd hand CV lens, there is a shortage of Leica lenses...

 

Set speed to 1/125, aperture to f/6.3, focus to 12 feet, and shoot away until the winder wont wind on, then rewind, drop the film at mini lab ask for 20 mins processing have a coffee, review, the results, for problems.

 

After you have shot about 12 cassettes of film you will have more questions.

 

Noel

[earleygallery]

...never say never, James. Never.

 

Ok, you cannot currently produce a digital image that looks exactly like a given film image, you can imitate grain and adjust colours/contrast to make something that looks a little like it was taken with film.

 

Better?

[mod2001]

Ok, you cannot currently produce a digital image that looks exactly like a given film image, you can imitate grain and adjust colours/contrast to make something that looks a little like it was taken with film.

 

Better?

 

Perfect

[stephen.w]

Thanks for any help you can offer guys. I did a "Buy it now" on eBay and got a Leica CL (Minolta version) tonight for $575 with the Rokkor 40mm f/2 included. I wish it was summicron-c but I guess they are nearly identical. I've always wanted a rangefinder and I'll have one come Saturday!

Congrats - it's a lovely little camera. Nothing in the digital world compares to the CL in terms of the combination of size, performance, and image quality it offers.

 

Edit. I should add that I'm also a film noob

[animefx]

Thanks! Oh yeah, I've never completely relied on my DSLR's meter so I learned the Sunny 16 rule early and have (mostly) relied on it through the years.

 

I need to research processing film myself (at home) it's something I definitly have an interest in doing. I love b&w Tri-X samples I've seen but I'll probably start off shooting some color or b&w if XP2 is good I'll try that out as long as I can find it locally, if not I'll have to order it.

 

You can NEVER get the same results from digitals files as film. Maybe you can get something that looks a little similar but it won't be the same. Rather like artificial flavours.

 

Some of your questions have been answered above. Just to add, start off with a few rolls of XP2 to try it, you can have it processed at any Minilab 1 hour place as it uses exactly the same process as colour neg film.

.

I don't know why you need to change ISO mid roll - as mentioned the film has a wide latitude so you can under/over expose if necessary, but I'd try sticking to ISO400 knowing that you don't have to be 100% accurate. Google 'sunny 16' and try that instead of using the built in meter!

 

Once you're happy with using film again you could try 'proper' black and white film like HP5 or TRI X. Buy yourself a changing bag, film tank, developer/stop bath/fixer and wetting agent and process it yourself. Take a look at the Ilford film website for a good beginners guide to film processing. It's actually very quick and simple to do.

 

Have fun!

[Advertisement]

Hallo,

Look here: Interesting Leica gear

[animefx]

Thanks for the suggestions. I've heard good things about llford XP2 so if I can find it locally I'll use that for my first couple rolls, if not I'll have to order some from B&H.

 

As for the M2, M4-2, I would love either camera but I have already ordered a Leica CL last night a few hours after posting in the thread. Its a little bit more limited for lens selection, but this way I will know if I like rangefinders and I didn't have to spend and arm and a leg. I got the camera + 40mm f/2 rokkor for $575 + shipping.

 

Hi

 

The CL instruction book should be enough for operating the camera. loading and unloading the film at the end.

 

There are four types of film, dont worry about details just buy Ilford XP2, take it to mini lab, and when that say they cannot do it say 'yes you can it is a normal C41 film', the prints will be serpia or purple and one color, ignore this, get a CD RoM scan as well as prints.

 

I'd not bother with a CL is was a chepo Leica, get a M2 or M4-2 and a 2nd hand CV lens, there is a shortage of Leica lenses...

 

Set speed to 1/125, aperture to f/6.3, focus to 12 feet, and shoot away until the winder wont wind on, then rewind, drop the film at mini lab ask for 20 mins processing have a coffee, review, the results, for problems.

 

After you have shot about 12 cassettes of film you will have more questions.

 

Noel

[animefx]

Interesting comparison. I have an eye for fine detail but honestly I can't see any difference between those photos, so it looks like the rokkor 40mm f/2 is just as good! i think any difference might be from wind causing the slightest movement in the bushes/schrubs or light passing between the clouds illuminating different areas in each shot (in the distance)

 

Thanks for the information!

 

...apologies for my lack of clarity, animefx.

 

C41 is the colour negative developing process used by most high street labs (including Walgreens and Walmart). It is by far the most popular process for 35mm colour negative film (i.e. "regular" film). Slide film requires a totally different process from C41, unless you want to be adventurous.

 

You are correct about film size - you will need 135 film (also known as 35mm) for your Leica CL or Minolta CLE. 120 film is for medium format cameras and will be too big for your camera.

 

I have never used a CL but by all accounts, the Minolta M-Rokkor 40mm 2.0 is a cracking little lens. Hope you got a hood and lens cap to go with it. For further information the Minolta M-Rokkor 40mm 2.0 versus the Leitz Summicron-C 40mm 2.0, click here.