jaapv Posted May 9, 2010 Share #41 Â Posted May 9, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) The SF 58 is far more powerful than the SF 24. That means the preflash will be seen as much weaker in comparison. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 9, 2010 Posted May 9, 2010 Hi jaapv, Take a look here Which flash? A Leica flash?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
tdtaylor Posted May 9, 2010 Share #42 Â Posted May 9, 2010 Even with the flash dialed down, it appears weaker. When I first received the SF58, I took a look at this (partly because the pre-flash of the SF24 bothered me so much), and the SF58 does appear weaker, but more importantly, it appears to occurs closer to the actual flash. My guess, but only a guess, is that the electronics on the SF58 are much faster in concert with the M9, allowing this to occur. The SF24 has a distinct pre -flash, enough to clearly see it with the human eye; whereas, the SF58 you really have to study it to see the separate flash. Almost like my Nikon Speedlights, which are not noticeable. Â Maybe someone more technical can address the specifics of the pre-flash between the units. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesphoto99 Posted May 9, 2010 Share #43 Â Posted May 9, 2010 The pre-flash on the SF58 is hardly noticeable, to the point I don't think about it anymore. Very short, to the point I do not notice it. The electronics of the SF58 is obviously on another level, as is the cost. I found the pre-flash on the SF24 a problem and very noticeable. Â Great to know. I may have to consider one of these of I can find at the right price. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted May 9, 2010 Share #44 Â Posted May 9, 2010 ...Look at the photo of the man jumping over a puddle and don't tell me he wasn't concerned with fractions of a second.... Â As far as I know no one has actually measured the 24 vs. 58 lag. Â I found the M8+SF24 GNC unusable for something like dance, because of the lag. Â Apparently the lag may vary with the firmware. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
msk2193 Posted May 9, 2010 Share #45 Â Posted May 9, 2010 I just got around to rigging the Metz 76 MZ-5 to the M9 and am astounded by the very pleasing results. I use the Metz's optional bounce diffuser with the secondary direct flash module set to 1/4 power. The flash gun is a bit large for the M9, but the results are actually well worth it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach Rosie Posted November 12, 2010 Share #46 Â Posted November 12, 2010 Is the little Leica CF any good as a fill flash? Looks pretty compact. Would it be a worthwhile thing to pick up? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gib_robinson Posted November 13, 2010 Share #47  Posted November 13, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Get the Nikon or Nissin system cable. And do read Sean Reid's piece on 'Working With Flash'. The old man from the Age of Flashpowder  +1  Reid's approach to SF58 on the M8/9 is very ingenious. I use the flash as he suggests off-camera with a Nikon cable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeicaBraz Posted November 16, 2010 Share #48 Â Posted November 16, 2010 Are SC 17 and SC 19 the only Nikon cables that allow for full TTL connection with M9 and the SF 24D? Tks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricC Posted January 18, 2011 Share #49 Â Posted January 18, 2011 Or the Nikon SC-28 according to another thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted January 18, 2011 Share #50  Posted January 18, 2011 Are SC 17 and SC 19 the only Nikon cables that allow for full TTL connection with M9 and the SF 24D?Tks  They should all have the necessary basic functions, but I understand that some of the higher numbered have additional gizmos in the camera connector, like AF focusing light or things like that.  The Nissin cable claims to be universal, i.e. to work with all contact setups, including Canon. I have not tested this (my last Canon was a Canonet 17QL) but it works flawlessly with Leica.  The old man who got his beard singed, occasionally Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwind Posted February 20, 2011 Share #51 Â Posted February 20, 2011 Has anyone tried the cf22 on a m9? Thanks Dennis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
atlfoto Posted February 24, 2011 Share #52 Â Posted February 24, 2011 Please, don't use your M9 with flash!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1JB Posted February 24, 2011 Share #53 Â Posted February 24, 2011 I've had my SF58 for 2 days and everyone in and around our house is pretty much blind at this point. The dog won't come near me when I'm holding the camera. The Nikon SC 28 cord works perfectly. I don't see myself wandering around with the flash in my left hand and camera in my right very often but it does provide some interesting results and it sure get's you lot's of practice for zone focusing. Â I find TTL to be of very limited utility. On my flash there is a definite pre-flash which causes people and pets to blink resulting in closed eyes almost every time. It is somewhat improved with first curtain sync however. Interestingly the preflash and eye blink does not seem to be an issue at all in TTL when the flash is bounced. I have to experiment with this but my recollection is that the pre-flash was very bright so I think it may use the main flash and not the secondary reflector. If that's the case then it makes sense that the pre-flash in bounce doesn't cause the subject to blink. I've got a an-mail into Leica to see whether the noticeable lag between the preflash and main flash is normal or if my flash needs to be calibrated. Â The SF 58 is an outstanding bounce flash. I particularly like the results with the secondary reflector set at 1/4 - 1/2 with bounce of the main flash. It's a far better bounce flash than my Canon 580 EX I or II. Results are very consistent and very good. Â In A or M mode it's very easy to use. A mode actually seems to better expose for me than TTL. TTL tends to over expose just a bit. Adjustments in M mode are very easy in the menu system but the backlight on the screen should be adjustable. It's too dim. Â I generally use flash with the camera in manual mode and it performs very well with standard settings of iso 320 or 640 up to f/8 at 125 which is about as far as I've taken it. ISO 160 actually worked well too. Â The size is smaller than the 580 EX II but still large for the camera as others have noted. The size doesn't bother me so much since I really only use flash on special occasions. What bothers me is the diffuculty in setting the speed and reading the f/stops because of it's large foot print. I don't change those much once they're set so it's not a big concern. Â I am very pleased with the flash and results so far. 99% of the time it will be bounced and it seems really designed to be used as a bounce flash, at least on the M9. Haven't tried it outdoors but I'm sure when I do I'll be in manual mode. Indoors I had to dial it back quite a bit in manual mode to avoid strong overexposure so it should have enough power for some outside work as a fill flash. Â Anyway, just my observations. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viv Posted February 24, 2011 Share #54 Â Posted February 24, 2011 The Nikon Speedlight SB-800 works well on the M9. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1JB Posted February 24, 2011 Share #55 Â Posted February 24, 2011 I confirmed that the preflash is done with the main flash not the secondary reflector. This explains why the eye blink is not a problem with bounce flash. I'm still seeing spots. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sergiofigliolia Posted August 29, 2011 Share #56 Â Posted August 29, 2011 Hi all, I didn't want to open a new thread as I see the topic is the same. I bought an M8 and wanted to use my SB-900 on it. I hope I won't damage camera nor flash. As far as I understood I can use the SB-900 but only in manual mode? How can I trigger the SB-900 when off camera other than a cable? Which wireless trigger if any would I use? If I had 2 SB-900s could I use a sb-900 to trigger the other without using any other accessory? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 29, 2011 Share #57 Â Posted August 29, 2011 No chance of damage. The camera is rated at 600V trigger voltage. You can use either manual or automatic (if provided) with any non-Leica flash, but for TTL control you need either the SF 24 D or SF 58 D, and some Metz flashed but with limitations. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter H Posted August 29, 2011 Share #58 Â Posted August 29, 2011 Hi all,I didn't want to open a new thread as I see the topic is the same. I bought an M8 and wanted to use my SB-900 on it. I hope I won't damage camera nor flash. As far as I understood I can use the SB-900 but only in manual mode? How can I trigger the SB-900 when off camera other than a cable? Which wireless trigger if any would I use? If I had 2 SB-900s could I use a sb-900 to trigger the other without using any other accessory? Â I think you'll need an adapter to use the SB900 directly on the M9 because the foot of the flash is bigger than the Leica hot shoe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Learner Posted August 29, 2011 Share #59 Â Posted August 29, 2011 But Lars, how do you avoid camera shake / shudder when holding the camera with only one hand? Â JOHN Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted August 29, 2011 Share #60 Â Posted August 29, 2011 Not much chance of camera shake during a flash exposure of 1/1000 or shorter. Remember, it is the flash, not the camera shutter, that does the exposure. The shutter's only job is to keep out of the way. Â The flashpowder man Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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