Which flash? A Leica flash?

[rolu]

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The OP's priority was to put it on the camera and it just work, so a Leica TTL flash would seem to be a must.

 

But TTL isn't essential in the wider view, and using a non Leica flash opens up other possibilities for value and function. An Olympus FL36 has both a swivel and tilt head and is a compact size for the M9, so on Auto its good for bounce flash. I wouldn't dream nowadays of having a non-TTL flash for a DSLR and zoom lens, but flashguns that loose their TTL function on the M9 are easy enough to use given the simplicity of the camera.

 

Steve

 

So the TTL frenzy can be traced back more to the fact to adopt the flashes angle of radiation using a zoom lens with a DSLR than the maybe more exact exposure than with AUTO?

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[jaapv]

The non-TTL-on-M9 Metz flashes with the correct SCA adapter will follow the focal length of the coded lenses on the M9 automatically, so even that advantage is not there.

[Walt Calahan]

I forgot to mention that I use a Nikon SC-17 cord to take the SD-24 strobe off camera. Really excellent solution that others mentioned here.

[lars_bergquist]

All true, but given a bit of skill and less conveniently the same result can be obtained with a manual flash.

Given a bit of skill and less conveniently, the same result can be obtained with a careful dosage of magnesium powder. But I choose not to -- I've been through both flash powder and flash lamps and flash cubes, and I say, good riddance, Sir.

 

And the first electronic flash I ever owned ran off a lead-acid battery.

 

The old man from the Age of TTL Flash --at last

[jaapv]

If it was a Loewe-Opta, the grey machine,the one I have is in need of a battery replacement.

[lars_bergquist]

A Braun Hobby, in fact. That was in 1958.

 

The old man from the Age of TTL Flash --at last

[MEB]

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Given a bit of skill and less conveniently, the same result can be obtained with a careful dosage of magnesium powder. But I choose not to -- I've been through both flash powder and flash lamps and flash cubes, and I say, good riddance, Sir.

 

And the first electronic flash I ever owned ran off a lead-acid battery.

 

The old man from the Age of TTL Flash --at last

 

Lars,

 

I think you also developed your glass plates in the back of a covered wagon!

 

Mark Blumer

[charlesphoto99]

What about that odd pre- flash and delay with Leica TTL? Is that still present with the SF58? IMO it rendes TTL with the 24 useless. So much for the decisive moment.

[Guest mc_k]

...An Olympus FL36 ...

 

this looks like a nice size. Can you tell me how many stops adjustment there is in auto and in manual? I could not find any specific info.

 

I just tried a Metz 36-C2, but there is just a three stop adjustment.

 

thanks

[lars_bergquist]

Lars,

 

I think you also developed your glass plates in the back of a covered wagon!

 

Mark Blumer

Sorry, I just missed that!

 

The old man from the Age of God's Own Flashlight

[lars_bergquist]

What about that odd pre- flash and delay with Leica TTL? Is that still present with the SF58? IMO it rendes TTL with the 24 useless. So much for the decisive moment.

Of course it uses a pre-flash. That's the only way to get TTL with an electronic sensor camera.

 

I do think on the other hand that you should try to control your pre-flash Angst. When you start working with the flash, it turns out to be much less of an issue than you may have thought.

 

HCB, a man of a more leisurely age -- remember, he started and ended as a painter -- did not think of decisive moments in terms of hundredths of a second. He thought of the conjuncture of bodies in space.

 

The old man from the Age of the CHICO

[250swb]

this looks like a nice size. Can you tell me how many stops adjustment there is in auto and in manual? I could not find any specific info.

 

I just tried a Metz 36-C2, but there is just a three stop adjustment.

 

thanks

 

Usability depends on distance to subject of course, but as an example in auto it has half steps from f1.4 to f32 when set for coverage of a 35mm lens. But like people have found with using the old Leica SF20 in auto mode on the M9 generally you need to give set 2 stops overexposure on the flash (or open the lens up) to give a full exposure and not just a fill.

 

Steve

[Guest mc_k]

thanks! And I will assume the Manual setting is not variable.

[snaggs]

To be honest, Leica flash is terrible, it doesn't even seem to transfer the aperture correctly, exposures a woeful and basically require manual trial and error. Compared to Nikon its........ Im not sure Nikon ever had anything that functioned as badly.

 

Daniel.

[Guest mc_k]

no, I think you need to enter the lens aperture.

[Guest mc_k]

I got the impression the Nikon camera can transfer distance info (I wouldn't know). For me and the 24D, the right auto setting at 20 ft. will not be the right setting at 8 ft., and I can't dial the flash down quickly enough... but I'm not sure a Nikon flash on the Leica would be any better.

[Peter Walker]

Don't underrate the SF24D. I do often use it for bounce, in normal size rooms with useable reflecting surfaces, such as a white ceiling. The power is quite sufficient, especially at ISO500 or thereabouts, and TTL flash works well and relieves you of much uncertainty. Direct off camera flash can also be effective at short ranges.

 

I use the same technique as Sean Reid: You couple the flash to the camera with either a Nikon SC19 'system' cable, or the universal cable SC01 made by Nissin. To the piece that goes on the flash, I add a wriststrap, of the kind that is intended for a tripod bushing (which both cables have) so that I can momentarily let go of the flash in order to change lens settings. Full function is maintained.

 

The SF24D is also good for on camera fill flash, cranked down two f-stops or thereabouts.

 

The old man from the Age of Flashlamps

 

Hi Lars,

 

Can you please share more detail as to how you "bounce" the SF24D, given that the head does not swivel. Maybe a photo of the setup? Do you use TTL when you bounce or Manual?

 

Regards

Peter

[charlesphoto99]

I do think on the other hand that you should try to control your pre-flash Angst. When you start working with the flash, it turns out to be much less of an issue than you may have thought.

 

HCB, a man of a more leisurely age -- remember, he started and ended as a painter -- did not think of decisive moments in terms of hundredths of a second. He thought of the conjuncture of bodies in space.

 

The old man from the Age of the CHICO

 

Ummm, if you check out my work you will see that I've made a very good name for myself - in particular with my images using flash. I became quite well known for my flash technique photographing rock bands in the eighties and nineties, some of which are in museums. I know what I'm talking about - and doing. The Leica TTL flash (well SF24 which is why I'm asking about the 58) just does not work to capture moments the same as my old trusty Vivitar 285.

 

HCB, as most "people" photographers I know, wanted the shutter to fire exactly when it needed to fire (landscapes who cares). Look at the photo of the man jumping over a puddle and don't tell me he wasn't concerned with fractions of a second.

 

So, again. Anybody who actually knows what they are talking about, how is the preflash on the SF58 compared to the SF24?

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[lars_bergquist]

Hi Lars,

 

Can you please share more detail as to how you "bounce" the SF24D, given that the head does not swivel. Maybe a photo of the setup? Do you use TTL when you bounce or Manual?

 

Regards

Peter

A full system cable (one that has all the contacts in the right places) connects the accessory shoe of the camera with the foot of the flash. I hold the camera in my right hand and with the left hand I aim the flash at a convenient reflecting surface -- not necessarily the ceiling! As all functions are transferred, I use the flash on TTL ('GNC'). That's the exact point of the whole operation.

 

The cable, then, has a male dovetail foot at the camera end, and a female shoe at the flash end (to receive the flashgun's foot). A long spiralised cable connects the two pieces. Simple. Useable cables are the Nikon SC17 or SC19, or the Nissin SC01.

 

The old man from he Age of Flashcubes

[tdtaylor]

Ummm, if you check out my work you will see that I've made a very good name for myself - in particular with my images using flash. I became quite well known for my flash technique photographing rock bands in the eighties and nineties, some of which are in museums. I know what I'm talking about - and doing. The Leica TTL flash (well SF24 which is why I'm asking about the 58) just does not work to capture moments the same as my old trusty Vivitar 285.

 

HCB, as most "people" photographers I know, wanted the shutter to fire exactly when it needed to fire (landscapes who cares). Look at the photo of the man jumping over a puddle and don't tell me he wasn't concerned with fractions of a second.

 

So, again. Anybody who actually knows what they are talking about, how is the preflash on the SF58 compared to the SF24?

 

The pre-flash on the SF58 is hardly noticeable, to the point I don't think about it anymore. Very short, to the point I do not notice it. The electronics of the SF58 is obviously on another level, as is the cost. I found the pre-flash on the SF24 a problem and very noticeable.