Julian Thompson Posted April 26, 2010 Share #101 Posted April 26, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) No, there was an apology needed Jaap. I was outspoken and arrogant and it was not necessary, since I was still correct with my work and all I needed to do was listen a little more and add to it, rather than get all defensive. Lesson learned. Listen more. Work hard. Talk less! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 26, 2010 Posted April 26, 2010 Hi Julian Thompson, Take a look here M9 - coincidence at infinity. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jaapv Posted April 26, 2010 Share #102 Posted April 26, 2010 Anyway, let's get on with Leica talk, much more fun 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted April 26, 2010 Share #103 Posted April 26, 2010 ...In order for all lenses to couple accurately with the rangefinder, the axis of the roller cam must be precisely parallel with the axis of the shaft at the other end of the arm. If it isn't, there are two possible sources of inaccuracy, though I don't know which is more important. One is that as the arm rotates, the angle the roller presents to the rangefinder cam on the lens will change; the other is that the coupling will be different depending on the vertical position at which each lens's rangefinder cam contacts the roller. If the roller is exactly parallel with the shaft at the other end, both those factors are irrelevant. ... glad to know this ... I bought a 90/2.8 (last version) and the roller would slip off half way to infinity, on a couple of cameras. I noticed the cam diameter is about 35mm; on most of my lenses it's about 31mm. I sent the lens back, but maybe should have had both cameras checked. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted April 26, 2010 Share #104 Posted April 26, 2010 thanks for the good info Jaap Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted April 28, 2010 Share #105 Posted April 28, 2010 ... There is a bending tool - you are quite right. ... I think we're finally getting there, guys! We've discovered a tool so secret that almost no one has even heard of it. Has anyone ever even seen the jig used to make the bending tool? That's the Grail of the collector! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corvi Posted January 18, 2011 Share #106 Posted January 18, 2011 Sorry for digging this up again, but i somehow cant loosen the screw on the rangefinder arm. Im trying already, but im too afraid to apply any more force, since the screw is already deforming itself :/ I tried to rotate it counter clockwise like mentioned before. After adjusting the infinity is still got very slight backfocus, which means ill have to loosen that screw, adjust close focus and then repeat the whole thing again if i understood correctly, but hell, how do i get that screw loose ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 18, 2011 Share #107 Posted January 18, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Ummm... why don't you take the camera to somebody who knows what he is doing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corvi Posted January 18, 2011 Share #108 Posted January 18, 2011 Because Leica wants me to pay 800 Euros for a punny rangefinder adjustment im doing on my Film M's myself for years now. 800 Euros is half of a new M8, so, no, i wont pay that for repairs .. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 18, 2011 Share #109 Posted January 18, 2011 haha joke. send it to an independent. I paid a fraction of that to Will van Manen. Btw afaik Leica charges under 150 Euro for a RF adjustment,in fact up till now I got it under guaranty, so I cannot imagine where you got 800 Euro from. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washington Posted January 19, 2011 Share #110 Posted January 19, 2011 This post is very long and no, have have not read everything, so I may be redundant here. Concerning screwdrivers: it is always best to use the tip that is as wide as the screw slot is, or as close as you can get. Yes, blades are often a wee bit thicker than the screw-slot is wide. With a fine file, and watching the tip carefully for and even removal from both sides of the blade ..... and as parallel as you can make it..... keep checking your progress in the screw slot until it just fits! This is pretty common work and necessary. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corvi Posted January 19, 2011 Share #111 Posted January 19, 2011 haha joke. send it to an independent. I paid a fraction of that to Will van Manen. Btw afaik Leica charges under 150 Euro for a RF adjustment,in fact up till now I got it under guaranty, so I cannot imagine where you got 800 Euro from. Well if it would be that easy i would have done that already. In fact, no camera repair service will touch a digital M, since they all say the lack proper equipment. Actually i already went to the Leicashop (you should know, world famous camera auction house and official Leica Partner) and they told me not even they will do anything with it. The only place i can get that adjusted is in Solms. So i called the customer service in Solms, and after talking on the phone for about half an hour the kind women said it'll cost me around 800 Euros (+/- 50), depending on the time it takes .. So im not pulling stuff out of my nose here, Leica really went pretty insane with this. They even wanted to charge me 250 Euros to clean the viewfinder of my M6 ... Did that on my own too in the end, since thats just hell of a lot money .. Anyways, back to the question. My screwdriver fits perfectly, but still, im deforming the screw already with the force i applied. Is it really that stiff or am i rotating in the wrong direction ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 19, 2011 Share #112 Posted January 19, 2011 That is absolute stuff and nonsense. All well-known independents do regular RF adjustments of M8 and M9. Will van Manen did both my M8 and M9 after me dropping it. And Leica charges well under 200 Euro for the service. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corvi Posted January 19, 2011 Share #113 Posted January 19, 2011 Okay i give up. Looks like the Leicashop/Westlicht which is one of the most reputable camera stores and galleries in the world just lied right into my face. And also, the woman on the phone from Leica CS seems to have lied to me. Im sorry that i pointed out two facts i got told, seems like you know it better .. And seems like all of the 6 camera repair services i called and went to obviously don't want my money either, or maybe they are just too lazy to adjust my rangefinder .. Anyways, anyone here who can actually help me and not just talk nonsense ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 19, 2011 Share #114 Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) Stores want to sell you cameras. Or send them on to Leica. If they are a Leica dealer they are obliged to by contract. You must go to a repair service like Don Goldberg, Sherry Krauter or Tom Abrahamson in the USA and there are many more, both in the USA and the rest of the world. And yes, you were told a load of rubbish. And yes, I know better. From extensive experience. But go ahead. It is your camera. If you don't know how to loosen a tight screw I don't see much chance of success.... Edited January 19, 2011 by jaapv Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 19, 2011 Share #115 Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) Ok. I just spoke to Mr. Jakob of Leica. Simple adjustment only costs under 100 Euro, normally 65 plus VAT. The price of 800 Euro would be a completely new viewfinder/rangefinder. Of course, as you have damaged the mechanism already, it might be a few Euros more, but not excessively so. If the camera is sent in for something else it will be done for free normally. I also did a quick spot check on a number of the recommended repair services here on the forum. All of those I called will do a RF adjustment on the M8/9 at prices quoted between 25 and 50 Euro approx. Edited January 19, 2011 by jaapv Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted February 22, 2011 Share #116 Posted February 22, 2011 Minor fyi...Sherry Krauter doesn't work on digital because, as she explained, necessary equipment would be too expensive. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k-hawinkler Posted February 22, 2011 Share #117 Posted February 22, 2011 Minor fyi...Sherry Krauter doesn't work on digital because, as she explained, necessary equipment would be too expensive. Jeff Hi Jeff, Many thanks. That's indeed very interesting. Does this imply that adjustments have to be more precise for digital than for film? To me this appears consistent with Will van Manen Kamera-Service's feedback which I summarized here http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/1596666-post142.html. BTW, I ran my paraphrasing by them and Will van Manen and Cathy Kuiper agreed with it. Best, K-H. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted February 22, 2011 Share #118 Posted February 22, 2011 Perhaps more precise, but definitely different mechanics to ensure proper adjustment. I think she told me that just one machine (there might be others) would cost her more than $70,000. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Laitila Posted April 20, 2011 Share #119 Posted April 20, 2011 I was having consistent back focus issues on my M9, and after reading this I tried the hex wrench adjustment and it worked like a charm. Just a slight adjustment, a check for infinity focus, and then slight more of adjustment and now focus is spot on now It's like I just got a whole new camera and set of lenses. Thank you so much for sharing this information! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washington Posted April 20, 2011 Share #120 Posted April 20, 2011 A whole essay could be written on screw-drivers alone: how they work and how to use them. I am speaking of the flat drivers for the slotted screw. It’s really easy to ‘’bugger’’ a screw slot on a tight screw even with a driver that fits. The process of slippage leading to tearing or deforming the screw slot edges is called ‘’caming out’’ due to the fact that most flat bladed screw-drivers have a tapered edge addressing a flat sided slot. Thus, when rotational torque is applied, there is also the ‘’lifting’’ action due to the wedge shape of the screw-driver blade. So, what we have to do to overcome this action is push the driver in harder as we apply more torque. On many precision mechanisms this is a delicate task as one may bend the device holding the screw…. without proper bracing to resist the pushing force. The best driver to overcome the caming action would be ‘’hollow-ground’’ at the tip so that the edges would be parallel as is the screw slot side. They also make driver blades with embedded diamond grit… there is anti-caming compound to apply to standard blades. Interesting subject all-in-all. By the way, is it spelt camimg or camming…. I’ll have to look it up. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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