dawnrogers Posted February 27, 2010 Share #1 Posted February 27, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, I was just wondering how many of have a flash and actually use it with your M8? You don't see much talked about it on here and just wondered how people got on with it ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 27, 2010 Posted February 27, 2010 Hi dawnrogers, Take a look here M8.2 and flash. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Luke_Miller Posted February 27, 2010 Share #2 Posted February 27, 2010 I use the SF-24D and the Nikon SB-25 flashes on my M8.2. The SF-24D works fine in TTL, Auto, and Manual mode, while the Nikon works in Auto and Manual only. I go with the Sean Reid approach of using the flash off camera using a Nikon SC-17. That way I can bounce the SF-24D. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt Calahan Posted February 27, 2010 Share #3 Posted February 27, 2010 I, too, have used the Nikon SC-17 and SC-29 cords with a SF24 strobe on my M6 TTL cameras with great success. Great to get the flash away from the lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anguish Posted February 27, 2010 Share #4 Posted February 27, 2010 I have the SF 24 D and a cord so I can use it off camera and/or bounce it. However, this becomes cumbersome because you have to hold the flash in the left hand, which makes focusing a bit of a trick. An option I have not used would be to put the flash on some kind of frame or rack or holder, however you would then have a Frankenstein, which is getting away from what the camera is all about - small, discrete, etc. Also, the camera and lenses are designed to take maximum advantage of available light. So when you attach the flash, you are departing from the strength of the design and intent. I rarely use a flash but have had great results indoors with a Summicron 40 mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
giordano Posted February 27, 2010 Share #5 Posted February 27, 2010 Also, the camera and lenses are designed to take maximum advantage of available light. So when you attach the flash, you are departing from the strength of the design and intent. I rarely use a flash but have had great results indoors with a Summicron 40 mm. Yes, the M rangefinder is very good for focusing in bad light - but that is at least as much of an advantage when using flash as when using available light (because one can still focus accurately even when it's so dark that hand-held available light exposures are impossible). Yes, it's an advantage that there's no reflex mirror that might contribute to camera shake - but that's a side-effect of the rangefinder and not a feature designed to take maximum advantage of available light. On the other hand, the design features that would maximise usability in available light - e.g. an ultra-sensitive CMOS sensor and image stabilisation - are conspicuously lacking, and there's a strong body of opinion here that rejects the idea that they should ever be provided. So I can't work out what you mean when you say "the camera" was "designed to take maximum advantage of available light." The lenses, yes - at least the ones designed for excellent performance at widest aperture; but the camera? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 27, 2010 Share #6 Posted February 27, 2010 Well, what can't you shoot at say ISO 2000 (or 1250 on an M8 for that matter) and f 1.4 ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted February 27, 2010 Share #7 Posted February 27, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Well, what can't you shoot at say ISO 2000 (or 1250 on an M8 for that matter) and f 1.4 ? Jaap-- Giordano is right. IMO there's no real way an M8 is "maximized" for available light, except insofar as the CCD is very good till it isn't (round about ISO 1250). The trade-off is between light-gathering. noise, DR and colour and given those dimensions a D700 walks all over the M8 at ISOs over 640. Not by as much as people might think, mind you, but by a couple of stops at least (after that the colour, NR and lack of tonal range makes the shots kinda crappy looking to my eyes). And there are a Ton of Things you can't shoot at f1.0 at ISO 640 on an M8 (closer to true ISO 800 according to my meters). I run into them all the time. Now it might be true that you can hand hold an M more easily than a dSLR and squeeze an extra stop; in my experience a really slow shutter doesn't cut it, though, unless you're using flash as well to freeze any action. And honestly you typically can't simply use ISO 1250 for low-light shots due to the lack of shadow room and the noise floor. It's ok if you want to clip your lower quartertones into black or if you have enough high-quality ambient to make it work. But most of the time in a very low-light situation you don't have the quality of light, and then your only option is to add light. That's not a crime. And it's not 'anti-Leica' either as far as I'm concerned. I've seen dozens (if not hundreds) of truly awful low-light shots taken with "available" light when the light available was horribly coloured, awfully positioned, and inadequate for decent exposure. A camera system--any camera system--in and of itself can't compensate for those conditions. But knowing what to do with a flash (or flashes) or a reflector or other light source can, and does.... To the original poster: there are a ton of conversations about using flash with the M8 (not particularly M8.2). Use the forum search function, or use Google, and you'll find them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 27, 2010 Share #8 Posted February 27, 2010 I quite agree, Jamie, I was being a bit provocative;). But I find that one can do more than expected - and the M9 is a lot better. But nothing, not even the highest ISO Nikon can correct bad light. That is where flash is mainly useful imo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anguish Posted February 28, 2010 Share #9 Posted February 28, 2010 A great conversation Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted February 28, 2010 Share #10 Posted February 28, 2010 I have a M8.2, I followed Sean Reid's advice and got a SC 28 to connect to a Nikon SB600 and hold the flash with my left hand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted February 28, 2010 Share #11 Posted February 28, 2010 I have a M8.2, I followed Sean Reid's advice and got a SC 28 to connect to a Nikon SB600 and hold the flash with my left hand. A great method, though I personally find I like to have my focusing hand free Sean can do it; I tried and can't. A bounce head and assorted gels and snoots does the same thing for me, without the cable too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted February 28, 2010 Share #12 Posted February 28, 2010 I quite agree, Jamie, I was being a bit provocative;). But I find that one can do more than expected - and the M9 is a lot better. But nothing, not even the highest ISO Nikon can correct bad light. That is where flash is mainly useful imo. Ahhh Jaap! I always misread this smiley We totally agree Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinkfloyd Posted March 2, 2010 Share #13 Posted March 2, 2010 When I do use flash with the M8, I use it with the el cheapo wireless triggers and the flash on a small stand. Or handheld, put in a pocket when not in use. Depending on the situation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islandmike Posted March 2, 2010 Share #14 Posted March 2, 2010 I never used flash with my first Leica, back in the 70s, and have always disliked the harsh effect of on-camera flash. Bounce flash tends to leave eye sockets dark and under exposed, while ambient light can give poor results, lacking vibrancy, decent highlights and the twinkle in the eye that gives life to a portrait. In the search for a balanced solution, I bought a second-hand Metz 36 C-2 bounce flash, to which I attached a white cardboard disc (CD size). Shooting with the flash pointing directly up and balancing exposure as a tad under for each of the ambient (controlled by shutter speed) and flash (controlled by aperture) light sources, I've found that I get results I'm pleased with - the white disc throws just enough light forward to light the eyes and add a circular white highlight - see the samples attached. Mixing the light sources in this way does mean that the background may be a little warm on colour shots, but it's not a problem with monochrome. Incidentally, I've found that my portraits have improved a lot since resuming the use of a Leica - it's possible to interact with the subject so much better when one's face is not buried in the back of a DSLR. Cheers Mike Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/113887-m82-and-flash/?do=findComment&comment=1245172'>More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted March 2, 2010 Share #15 Posted March 2, 2010 ...You don't see much talked about it on here... search by model like "SF24D" and "SF58," as well as "flash" ... there is actually a lot on this topic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted March 2, 2010 Share #16 Posted March 2, 2010 ... Metz 36 C-2 bounce flash, to which I attached a white cardboard disc (CD size)... nice setup, but I guess you can't bounce in portrait orientation Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islandmike Posted March 3, 2010 Share #17 Posted March 3, 2010 nice setup, but I guess you can't bounce in portrait orientation Good point - I can use one of my Nikon SB600s to bounce in portrait orientation if I can be bothered with the bulk, as they have two way rotation. However, I like landscape orientated portraits..... Cheers M Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anguish Posted March 3, 2010 Share #18 Posted March 3, 2010 I stepped into a portrait set-up a shooter at our paper was working with - White lightning on stand, soft box, highlight behind the subject, etc. I put the pocket wizard on my M8. Despite all the studio gear, the camera remains small and useful. Karsh move over.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted March 3, 2010 Share #19 Posted March 3, 2010 thanks for posting about the 36 flash--it's nice to see what it looks like on the camera. Am still looking for a auto flash of this size with tilt & swivel and variable output. I don't need a TTL/GNC flash. I found the Leica 58 too large for the shoe, since I am shooting mostly in portrait. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhom Posted March 23, 2010 Share #20 Posted March 23, 2010 Good point - I can use one of my Nikon SB600s to bounce in portrait orientation if I can be bothered with the bulk, as they have two way rotation. However, I like landscape orientated portraits..... Cheers M Hi All, I am a new member and a M8/M8.2 wannabe. I'm trying to learn about this camera so that I can make good future purchasing decisions. I can tell that a M8 series is in my (near) future. Could I please ask for clarification on these Nikon flash discussions? Can one really use a Nikon SB-600 for successful M8 TTL flash? If not, I guess that what is being described in this thread is that M8 users must be using the SB-600 in its Auto mode where the SB-600 is reading the flash exposure with its internal metering circuit. I use mostly bounced flash and am wondering if anyone has gotten good bounced results from a SB-600 setup. I am very interested as I own a Nikon SB-800 (similar to SB-600, higher output). Thanks for helping me out! Best Wishes, Rick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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