ezc203 Posted February 24, 2010 Share #1 Posted February 24, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Recently, I've been doing a lot of shooting at night and I keep getting this blue/aqua colored spots popping up. Usually in the same patterns as light sources within the frame. What exactly is this? And how can I remedy this? M8, CV 35mm f/1,4 "Classic", Lightroom 2.5 Any pointers would be more than appreciated! All the best, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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hoppyman Posted February 24, 2010 Share #2 Posted February 24, 2010 You are seeing internal reflections, either within the lens or due to a fitted filter. If you are using the UV/IR with your camera you may like to try removing it for night shots with point light sources like this within the frame. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WPalank Posted February 24, 2010 Share #3 Posted February 24, 2010 Yupp, as Geoff stated, it's the IR cut filter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted February 24, 2010 Share #4 Posted February 24, 2010 UV/IR filter. You can take it off at night, but a much better solution would be to simply buy an M9. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezc203 Posted February 24, 2010 Author Share #5 Posted February 24, 2010 Thanks for the tips guys! I suppose I need to start a new thread "Will trade 43mm B+W UV/IR Filter for M9" =P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PasMichiel Posted February 24, 2010 Share #6 Posted February 24, 2010 don't use an IR/Uv filter at all. Even with M8. Use CornerFix programm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted February 24, 2010 Share #7 Posted February 24, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) don't use an IR/Uv filter at all. Even with M8. Use CornerFix programm Although Sandy is a wizard, Cornerfix can't remedy the IR sensitivity of the sensor in our M8s. The only fix for that are the UV/IR or 486 filters. Carl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 24, 2010 Share #8 Posted February 24, 2010 Indeed. Cornerfix is to correct the cyan drift caused by IR filters on uncoded lenses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelos Viskadourakis Posted February 25, 2010 Share #9 Posted February 25, 2010 UV/IR filter. You can take it off at night, but a much better solution would be to simply buy an M9. Is related completely to the lens,is internal reflection in the lens,this lens loves to create flares from strong highlights,a bright sky will be more diffused flare,a point light will be what you are getting,a filter/any filter will amplify the lens flare but filters of high quality cannot create any kind of flare in any good lens. i use M8 and never had the problem with Leica lenses and some voigtlander will have exactly the same flare with M9 or any film camera and that lens the rest is fantasy.I had similar issue with an older pre aspherical 35 cron i sold the lens and replace it with an asph.35 cron and i lost my flares ,in M8,M9 and film Leica MP. of course a very low quality filter can initiate the flare but cannot focus it so well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 25, 2010 Share #10 Posted February 25, 2010 Sorry, Angelos, this is a very typical IR filterflare. I can replicate it at will with any lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonearabiapix Posted February 25, 2010 Share #11 Posted February 25, 2010 I agree, I had the same problem with a Nikon lens that had a uv filter on it. Photographed a wedding with 4 candles on the alter and had 8 on the file. I believe the glass covering-protecting the sensor reflected the light back onto the inside of the filter. In any case remove the filter and I'm sure the problem will disappear also. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted February 25, 2010 Share #12 Posted February 25, 2010 Any pointers would be more than appreciated! Best suggestion that I can come up with is Photoshop:D. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjh Posted February 25, 2010 Share #13 Posted February 25, 2010 It is definitely the filter. This isn’t lens flare but a fairly typical example of ghost images. Ghost images are created by light reflected off the sensor and then again by the filter. This kind of reflection needs a planar surface such as a filter, and it needs a sensor rather than the more diffuse reflection off a film emulsion. Ghost images are easily recognized as they are horizontal and vertical mirror images of the original highlights. A line connecting the originating light source to its ghost will cross the center of the image: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravastar Posted February 25, 2010 Share #14 Posted February 25, 2010 As Michael said you need two or more flat reflecting surfaces to cause this type of reflection. A way of overcoming the problem is to use filters whose shape is that of a meniscus lens with zero power. Such a filter is used on the Canon 300mm f2.8 Apo for protection of the front element. I believe in the past Pentax used to market a range of zero reflection meniscus filters. I've never found a UV-IR cut filter of that type though. It may not be possible since the filter pass band depends upon angle of incidence of the light (as we well know with the M8's uncorrected cyan corners) which would be variable with a curved filter. Bob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wparsonsgisnet Posted February 25, 2010 Share #15 Posted February 25, 2010 Michael, that's a brilliant explanation. It's so simple to understand. Nice going. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_newell Posted February 25, 2010 Share #16 Posted February 25, 2010 Michael, that's a brilliant explanation. It's so simple to understand. Nice going. I hate to do this, but Michael's explanation was so clear and informative that I have to say I agree and thanks. That is often true of your posts, but this one was a gem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted February 25, 2010 Share #17 Posted February 25, 2010 I hate to do this, but Michael's explanation was so clear and informative that I have to say I agree and thanks. That is often true of your posts, but this one was a gem. But the solution is the same... you want an M9. I really don't see any solution that is more viable than this. How can I live with complete internal reflections? Are you listening dear... sweetie... honey... p.s. Michael, you are definitely more than 2 standard deviations. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezc203 Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share #18 Posted February 26, 2010 Great diagram Michael, very clear explanation. Thanks for all the feedback, now its time to solve this problem... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_newell Posted February 26, 2010 Share #19 Posted February 26, 2010 But the solution is the same... you want an M9. I really don't see any solution that is more viable than this. How can I live with complete internal reflections? Are you listening dear... sweetie... honey... p.s. Michael, you are definitely more than 2 standard deviations. Actually, I don't...but that's a different thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogopix Posted February 26, 2010 Share #20 Posted February 26, 2010 If you check the threads here you will see that most M8 magenta issues can be solved with a filter generated by Janie, and modified by others including me. We are not talking about 500 polyester wedding photos, but for the synthetic fabric and plastic induced magenta (which, btw is the REAL color, we just are not used to seeing iT :-) can be profiled out. in 2 years I never once used a filter and when I did the cyan drift drove me crazy. That said, I now have an M9 LOL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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