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Metering and Exposure


snajczuk

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The meter in the M9 is very accurate, but completely non-intelligent (as opposed to Nikon)

 

My suggestion is to put your hand in front of the subject, and take a reading off the palm . That way the reading is the same from time to time. If you subsequently find it to be too dark/bright, you can set an exposure compensation.

 

This is a very oldfashoned way but it still works like a charm if you ask me.,

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I have just started to use an X100s for macro and to help my fiance learn more about photography and this has reminded me that manual control is much easier in the end...., I have a very simple technique that keeps me sane....

 

Check ISO before I head out, 160 for the day 500-800 for evening/night, check the lens has been set correctly (manual or auto depending if coded) point the camera at a metering reference point after choosing aperture (The good old pavement, works well outside) and adjust the speed, check the first picture and I have a quick preview that shows the histogram, enough for me to be happy or check by the info key) After a while you intuitively meter correctly knowing what to choose for the speed check and away you go, the last picture I took yesterday was in theory quite challenging, but this technique was more than good enough, the untouched jpg below

 

I have to say the super complex analysis put forward by some photographers whilst undeniably good is for me just too tiresome when RAW files can be manipulated a fair bit if needs be

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Edited by IWC Doppel
adjustment
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This thread has been helpful. Coming from Nikon and a RX1, I mindlessly followed matrix metering. Moving to the M240's center weighted is certainly challenging.

 

Yes, for me as well coming from the Canon 5D2 world.

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The meter in the M9 is very accurate, but completely non-intelligent (as opposed to Nikon).

I'm not sure that I'd call matrix, multi-segment or whatever, metering 'intelligent'. It takes into account all sorts of factors but remains a form of automation which will give a specific exposure based on a set of quite sophisticated parameters. The problem I find with it is that you can't predict that it will yield the exposure that you actually want. With digital exposure can be a very personal thing depending on intent and workflow, so requires a learning curve and interpretation of the scene and its potential for specific post processing when metering. I look on the meter as a guide and always check the histogram for confirmation of what the reading yields, and I always shoot manually as this works best for me.

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I never let the camera decide what exposure I will make, except when shooting at night with a tripod in situations which are basically black on black, where I set the meter to under-expose by two or three stops. (On its own, the meter will try to turn night into day.) Otherwise I set up for whatever situation I am in and for optimum image. I tend to shoot between 5.6 and 8 on most lenses, preferably no slower than 125th. I think the optimum ISO on the M9 is 320 -- it adds a little grain and looks good in large 36 inch prints. On the MM you can use pretty well anything, because it is so flexible -- really nice at ISO1250. Wherever you are, take a couple of test shots to see what the histogram is telling you. The arrows in the view finder will tell you whether it thinks you are over-exposing or under-exposing, and you can make your own judgment. I think it is all about getting a feel for exposure, taking a lot of pictures and learning how to print, with the enormous range of tools available in PP. The main point is that a digital camera, unlike film, is an instant feedback system -- you can see what you are getting and don't have to wait to get to a dark room to see if you have screwed up.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geoffrey_James_%28photographer%29

Edited by gjames9142
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