pelagia Posted January 25, 2010 Share #21 Posted January 25, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Question: What happens to ISO set to AUTO when compensating in manual mode? I suppose AUTO ISO can not be used in manual mode, since camera would adapt ISO when you change aperture/shutterspeed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 25, 2010 Posted January 25, 2010 Hi pelagia, Take a look here Metering and Exposure. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jaapv Posted January 25, 2010 Share #22 Posted January 25, 2010 That is correct. Auto Iso should be off in manual mode. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 25, 2010 Share #23 Posted January 25, 2010 Jaap, I am also using auto al the times, with heavy usage of EV.You use manual, and -I guess- with practice you know what you need by looking at the led arrows intensity right? However, you use manual all the time? Or just use it when you "feel" a need to exposure compensate?? I wanna try that thing and see if I like it more... basically it seems like the other side of the same coin, but my M8 doesn't have the easy dedicated EV wheel like your M9 does... Edit: hmmm I just tried it looks ....better...might switch to fully manual Jaap: please tell me if you use LED arrow intensity at all Edit2: only thing I hate is that you have to depress half way for the arrows to appear... well... About 30% of the time, when I feel the need . I do use the arrow intensity, but not scientifically, more like "a touch offset - or a bit more" style. You don't have to depress halfway. Just tap the shutter button lightly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
diogenis Posted January 25, 2010 Share #24 Posted January 25, 2010 About 30% of the time, when I feel the need . I do use the arrow intensity, but not scientifically, more like "a touch offset - or a bit more" style. You don't have to depress halfway. Just tap the shutter button lightly. Yea I show it. It's an batt, savings feature. It's cool. And I also get rid of the Auto Iso as well, so with one stone.... I was stupid I wasn't using it before!! Heey, wait: Why Auto ISO should be off while on manual??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 25, 2010 Share #25 Posted January 25, 2010 Yea I show it. It's an batt, savings feature. It's cool. And I also get rid of the Auto Iso as well, so with one stone.... I was stupid I wasn't using it before!!Heey, wait: Why Auto ISO should be off while on manual???[/quote] In theory, it could be on... but this, imho, would be against the basic concept of MANUAL mode : in a manual camera, one expects to have all the exposure parameters to be decided by the user : sensitivity, f stop, time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 25, 2010 Share #26 Posted January 25, 2010 Hey Luigi ! it cannot be on, as it will attempt to correct any exposure offset you introduce Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
diogenis Posted January 25, 2010 Share #27 Posted January 25, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) The auto ISO feature is irrelevant of auto or manual Exposure control. You can program the auto ISO according to the lens you use, its min and max limits they way you like them, and when for example you reach a lower limit in shutter speed, the camera shifts it up a bit. At least that's how it should work both in A or manual. I don;t know about manual as I have never experienced it in those conditions, so someone else should share experience on this here Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
diogenis Posted January 25, 2010 Share #28 Posted January 25, 2010 Hey Luigi ! it cannot be on, as it will attempt to correct any exposure offset you introduce Why Jaap? It should only intervene when you reach the limits for the lens you use Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 25, 2010 Share #29 Posted January 25, 2010 So it would, but it makes no sense either if you stay within the limits as it does nothing then and as soon as it does you probably wouldn´t notice, not having optical feedback of your settings. Best to choose your own ISO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
diogenis Posted January 25, 2010 Share #30 Posted January 25, 2010 Anyway, Jaap, I insist that in your case the M9 that is, it is faster for you to use the A shutter speed and play with the EV rotation knob for whenever you need, because when you don't, you scratch one step, that of scanning speeds with the dial and looking at the leds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 25, 2010 Share #31 Posted January 25, 2010 It is far less accurate than measuring the brightest and the darkest point and setting the exposure, and if you have a middle gray it is even easier, especially as I have switched off half-press-hold in favor of soft release. I guess it is just what you are used to. I like to use the M9 as an M6. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted January 25, 2010 Share #32 Posted January 25, 2010 Lars wrote: Let's discuss it, here can be a misunderstanding. The metering "eye" which measures the light reflected from curtains has its fixed size. It is irrelevant which focal length you use, the area measured from the curtains is the same. So, basically, within in the picture frame the area of the spot is not changing. What changes with focal length, is the coverage of the measuring spot on the image subjects. For tele lens this spot would cover less subjects (say, the face of a person), and for a superwide lens it would cover more subject's (e.g. person's body, trees and the sky behind). In this meaning it is big. But if you measure the spot in relation to the picture frame, it would be exactly the same. What do you think? Toomas Yes of course. The metering pattern is not a fixed-size thing hovering 'out there'. Its size is always relative to the image that the lens casts on the sensor. So, therefore I pointed out that the pattern must be imagined inside the image frame, and that of course means that it always has the same size -- IN RELATION TO THE FRAME IN USE. The old man from the Age Before Meters Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
diogenis Posted January 25, 2010 Share #33 Posted January 25, 2010 Well I vary EV steps according to what I want to highlight: darks or lights? and of course according to speed limits. It involves a lot of menu fighting and some histogram chimping, but not much, if you shoot a batch of ideal condition for example... Manual is simpler and more straightforward, but also more time consuming as well, but if you use that soft release you have to do it manually. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted January 25, 2010 Share #34 Posted January 25, 2010 I still carry my old LunaSix and take an incident reading for those awkward occasions. At the very least, this gives me baseline to compare with the camera's meter reading. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
diogenis Posted January 25, 2010 Share #35 Posted January 25, 2010 Nicole, its digital. And don't forget the M9 can also bracket frame as well. A bit of chimping is not bad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted January 25, 2010 Share #36 Posted January 25, 2010 Nicole, its digital. And don't forget the M9 can also bracket frame as well. A bit of chimping is not bad I know, but old habits die hard. And after almost losing a few slides by trying to 'chimp' with one of my film cameras not too long ago, I tend not to look at the lcd very much. Seriously though, a hand held meter can still be a very useful tool, and it is great for anyone learning about exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leicakillen Posted January 25, 2010 Share #37 Posted January 25, 2010 Out of old habits I by far prefer total manual mode, trying to find a "grey" area and using this as first guess works 9 out of 10. But I have also set the histogram option in auto review to indicate overexposure which means I immediately see the amount of overexposure as red areas on the screen when chimping - very useful - try this! Have used this recently a lot these very cold and snowy weeks in the Stockholm area - snow is difficult to exposure right sometimes. But I must admit I have the old Sixtar for incident light still in my pocket... (BTW - the M9 works just fine in minus 10-13 deg Centigrade). /Anders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 25, 2010 Share #38 Posted January 25, 2010 Hey Luigi ! it cannot be on, as it will attempt to correct any exposure offset you introduce Yes... I'd say "in theory" for it's a basic nonsense to leave the camera "choose" a ISO setting, keep it fixed, and then let you play "freely" with diaph/time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KM-25 Posted January 25, 2010 Share #39 Posted January 25, 2010 I pretty much plan to keep using my Gossen Digisix when I get an M9, I am not into chimping much as it really distracts my perception of light distribution. For example, I have gotten to the point that I can take one reading in a room or on a street corner and visually extrapolate the settings as tight as 1/4 stops as I see fit. And ultimately, I would like to turn the LCD off and never be distracted by it, just keep shooting like I should. I never want to lose that ability since I will always shoot film, so a hand held meter it will always be. With that, how far off in any direction is the handheld meter in terms of comparable ISO settings on the M9? I found the M8 was 1/3rd stop faster than the set ISO when I set the baseline. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted January 25, 2010 Share #40 Posted January 25, 2010 ... On page 127 of the M8.2 manual (English version) there's a picture of the metering pattern itself. It might not be identical to that of the M9, but it'll give you an idea of how this "not-quite-spot" meter is implemented. Keep in mind that one of the major changes in the M9 is the redesign of the metering pattern. According to Stefan Daniel, there were enough complaints about the M8's metering that the pattern was changed to make the M9's meter work as much as possible like that of the M7. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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