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My new M2 and 35 Summaron


jpattison

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Just got this 1960 M2 with 1955 35mm f3.5 Summaron, to shoot B&W, so I can use the M7 exclusively for Ektachromes.

 

John

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I have the identical camera and lens. It (along with some longer lenses) is the core of my equipment. I would not trade it for anything else - no M8s, M9s, S2s. It is the closest thing I know of to a perfect camera. It has taught me much about the relationship between my minds eye and the world in front of me. This camera stays out of the way and just does it job with supreme competence. (Time to shut up).

 

Try to use the lens at f4 or smaller. It is best at f5.6 or less, (OK, I'm shut up)

 

Enjoy.

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I have the identical camera and lens.

 

Me too :D

 

I would not trade it for anything else - no M8s, M9s, S2s. It is the closest thing I know of to a perfect camera.

 

Me too :D

 

This camera stays out of the way and just does it job with supreme competence.

 

I couldn't have put it better myself. :D

 

I make up a contemporary "holy trinity" with a 50mm DR Summicron and a 90mm Collapsible Elmar.

 

Enjoy.

 

I couldn't have put it better myself! :D

 

Regards,

 

Bill

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...and I think Andy B. has this combo!

It was his eulogy about the 3.5 Summaron that made me go for it!

 

Loaded with Delta 100, might have to use 400 this weather, I've some T-Max 400 in the bag.

 

also a more modern lenshood...

 

Cheers,

John

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I just bought an M2 and I want a 35mm lens (I have a 28mm and just use the edges of the viewfinder). I would like a Summicron 35/2 but they are expensive. My question is, if I can find an older one with goggles (less expensive), can I just ditch the goggles and use the lens, since the M2 already has 35mm framelines? Or is there something to the goggles I don't know about? Do they detach from the lens itself?

 

And, if I can't afford a 35/2, would the next best be a Summaron 35/2.8? And how would you compare these to a Summaron 35/3.5 (cheapest, but is there a reason why that is?). I reeallly want a 35, but I don't want to buy one I won't be happy with. I usually shoot medium format architecture and landscape, so outside the Leica I almost always shoot at f11 and higher. This is a bit outside my turf. Thanks-

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If you need quality into the corners of the 24x36 and want Leica then you need to go to a summaron f/2.8 or new fangled Summarit f/2.5, at 5.6 or smaller either is comparable with the more expensive lenses, better then some...

 

Getting an optically perfect aron can be expensive, collectors prey on them.

 

If you cannot afford Leica a CV 35mm f/2.5 in LTM or M bay will work ok, and you can get them cheap.

 

I'd use a hood on any of these.

 

Noel

P.S. no you cannot ditch the goggles you can use the lens on the M2 the only problem is the bulk and tendency to dust and smear

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Hi bshubins,

 

take a look at this related thread..

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-collectors-historica/45351-summaron-m-35mm-f-3-5-a-3.html

 

The 35 f3.5 with detachable goggles cannot be used without them, see item 44 in the above link.

 

The modification to these earlier 35s (with and without detachable goggles, M3 only) is to file a tiny section of one bayonet, to bring up the 35mm frame-lines on M2 and later bodies.

 

Regards,

John

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My 3.5 screw mt is pleanty sharp. Yours should be too.

 

Your scans are very soft. You need to sharpen after scanning, resize to web size and resolution, then resharpen.

 

Use an amount around 50%, radius of .7 threshold zero for the capture first scan.

 

For the web, at final size, use a smaller radius and perhaps 25/50% usm setting.

 

In either step, have the image at 100 % and sharpen only up to where halos appear, then back off a little. This is really a black art and only experience will help.

 

Sharpening is not cheating, it is necessary for any image digitized.

 

Someday get a copy of real wold sharpening by Fraser & Schewe, $35 at Amazon

 

Ron Bigelow has a very good tutorial on all things digital. There are also other tutorials on line. High Pass sharpening is easy mastered.. Use Google

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Hi bshubins,

 

take a look at this related thread..

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-collectors-historica/45351-summaron-m-35mm-f-3-5-a-3.html

 

The 35 f3.5 with detachable goggles cannot be used without them, see item 44 in the above link.

 

The modification to these earlier 35s (with and without detachable goggles, M3 only) is to file a tiny section of one bayonet, to bring up the 35mm frame-lines on M2 and later bodies.

 

Regards,

John

 

I remember well that thread... :)... what a delicious combo, John !!!

Let me add a pair of variatons on 35s with M2...

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

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And, to remember that M2 is the best for the "35+90 light travelling set"... :)

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Thanks tobey,

I just exported them from Lightroom, after sorting out the exposure and sharpening the scanned image at a massive file size. My scanner, Microtek i900, is mostly used for 5x4 and 6x12, I keep trying to use it for 35mm... I print to A4, but am disappointed still. I'll try what you say.

 

Luigi! Great items! I can't get used to the frame counter, I keep catching it with my finger and can't remember if it moved 1 or 2 frames! Must practice.

 

Regards,

John

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Luigi,

 

Slightly off-topic: what is your experience with and view of the performance of that old Tele-Elmar?

 

Rgds

 

Christoph

 

You mean the Tele-Elmarit 90 in my above pic ? Not in absolute the best of old 90s : first place belongs, imho, to the Elmar 3 elements, which I still like to use on M8... but it was my mostly used 90 at film times: in normal light conditions, used at 5,6-8 it was perfect (better than the Elmar C for CL) and above all a lens you could always carry with you... fits any pocket and is very robust. I added this year the new Elmarit M, which now IS the 90 for M8... usual step-up of modern lenses in contrast and sharpness... but no so fantastically compact as the old TE... :o

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