Flashes

[miklosphoto]

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Further question:

 

Does anyone know whether we can activate Nikon or Canon slave-capable flashes off-camera using the SF24D on-camera?

 

That would be veeeeery nice.

 

As far as I know, all the latest Canon and Nikon models are only activated by IR. That is, SF24D can activate only optical slaves, like SF 58 for example.

Another "cheap" alternative solution would be the Vivitar 285HV ($80 brand new) with the Wein PN Peanut Slave ($18). This way you can activate any number of "cheap", $100 flash units with your SF24D.

[exile]

Yep, I've just checked my manual at home, and I can confirm that the Canon flashes are IR triggered. That's a shame.

[Nicoleica]

You could always get a couple of those really cheap little optical slave triggers and fit them to your other flashes. . Such as this Hama unit (I see that they also still make the PC cord to HotShoe adapter.)

[ho_co]

Do Metz flash units work with Nikon's CLS? ...

 

Question answered in another thread:

The Metz flash is just not 100% compatible with either Leica or Nikon. Yes, with Nikon, TTL works well wired, but it won't for example support Nikons IR control. ...

[menos I M6]

As far as I know, all the latest Canon and Nikon models are only activated by IR. That is, SF24D can activate only optical slaves, like SF 58 for example.

Another "cheap" alternative solution would be the Vivitar 285HV ($80 brand new) with the Wein PN Peanut Slave ($18). This way you can activate any number of "cheap", $100 flash units with your SF24D.

 

Most high end Nikon and Canon flashes do allow not only optical remote triggering by IR systems, but also the SU-4 mode, which triggers a remote flash by recognizing another flash going off.

 

For this, to work, you have to set the remote flash to "remote" and "SU-4 mode" and your SF-24D or any other TTL flash, that works via pre flashing to manual mode (the pre flash would trigger the remotes, which might not leave enough time for recharging for the main flash, to trigger correctly).

 

I use a Nikon SB-600 on camera, to trigger a Nikon SB-900 remotely this way.

I also use a pair of Pocket Wizards, to trigger the SB-600, which then triggers the SB-900 via SU-4 mode -> two off camera flashes on a budget with a Leica M.

Is the M8.2 also high voltage safe for older flashes, like the M9?

[wlaidlaw]

In an earlier post on this thread, I mentioned that I had bought a Pixel FC312 off camera flash cable, which is a clone of a Nikon SC-28. With a small modification to the part which fits into the camera, to clear the screw which stands proud on M8/9 shoes, it all seemed to work well. However, it is I am afraid, the usual story - "buy cheap - buy twice". The part which fits on a tripod thread and has the flash mounted on top, is insufficiently robust to take the weight of a Leica SF58-D flash or any other flash of a similar weight. The shoe has come loose, with one thread stripped and the whole assembly flexes to the extent that the flash goes off on its own with I assume, shorting wires inside. I have taken it apart to mend the stripped thread and tighten the three other screws holding the shoe on and it is very crudely assembled. I cannot send it back as I have, as I said, modified the camera part of the cable. So it is off to get a genuine Nikon cable. When will I learn! Others be warned.

 

Wilson

[wlaidlaw]

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In an earlier post on this thread, I mentioned that I had bought a Pixel FC312 off camera flash cable, which is a clone of a Nikon SC-28. With a small modification to the part which fits into the camera, to clear the screw which stands proud on M8/9 shoes, it all seemed to work well. However, it is I am afraid, the usual story - "buy cheap - buy twice". The part which fits on a tripod thread and has the flash mounted on top, is insufficiently robust to take the weight of a Leica SF58-D flash or any other flash of a similar weight. The shoe has come loose, with one thread stripped and the whole assembly flexes to the extent that the flash goes off on its own with I assume, shorting wires inside. I have taken it apart to mend the stripped thread and tighten the three other screws holding the shoe on and it is very crudely assembled. I cannot send it back as I have, as I said, modified the camera part of the cable. So it is off to get a genuine Nikon cable. When will I learn! Others be warned.

 

Wilson

[Keith (M)]

I have read through this and other threads on the subject of non-Leica flashes with the M9. Being a newbie to the M9 (one month old today) I first tried my 580EXII, which proved to make for a very unwieldy combination. Doing a temporary swap with my son for his 430EXII gives me a much better balanced duo. However, with both flashes the foot does not go completely into the hotshoe (see below). I have read about people carving a slot in the flash's foot or removing the little peg at the front of the hotshoe, neither of such modifications am I at the moment willing to undertake.

 

My trials at the moment have all been with the flash set to manual and power reduced to 1/16th, with some success albeit very much trial and error. Would having full engagement of the foot provide some form of auto-flash?

 

 

[Hank Taylor]

What's the right flash for me and my M9 ? I tried out the new SF55 but wasn't that happy with it. Returned it and got out my old Metz SCA 3000 with a SCA 3501 adapter set on "A" and found out when setting the flash in the up position when shooting inside even with hight ceilings results are excellent. Here is one recently taken.

 

shot at f5.6

 

Hank

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[lars_bergquist]

Well yes, any Metz on 'A' will give reliable results. You may also find that you get a 'flash ready' signal in the finder, and that the camera uploads ISO and focal length, if you use coded lenses, and the flash has a zoom reflector. And you may well decide that you can live with that.

 

But TTL it is not. The only flashes that can operate in TTL (alias GNC) with the M9 is the SF24D and the SF58. I could do with some more power than the SF24D has, but I will not put a SF58 in the flash shoe of the M9, or any M, and the little 24 is perfectly sufficient for fill flash, and enough for indoor bounce flash in many situations. And it is transportable.

 

For fill, I usually set the flash at minus 1 2/3 to minus two EV, when on TTL. On A, which I never use, you can down-regulate the flash in one-EV increments only. For bounce and 'free-hand flash', I connect the flash to the camera with a Nissin SC-001 cable, which has a shoe on top which I can use for a wide angle finder. Like Sean Reid, I have mounted a wrist loop on the connector on the flash side, so I can just drop the flash when I want to change focus. For free-hand and bounce with the 24, TTL is of course essential.

 

All this works beautifully for the old man from the Age of Flash Powder

[egrossman]

Lars

 

You said "I will not put a SF58 in the flash shoe of the M9, or any M". May I ask why?

 

You also said "the little 24 is... perfectly sufficient ... for indoor bounce flash in many situations" How do you bounce this flash without an articulated flash head? I presume off-camera, manually aiming at the ceiling.

 

Thanks.

 

Erik

[daniel buck]

just this passed weekend I tried out my manual flashes and pocket-wizards, worked perfectly with the M9, I didn't expect that there would be any problems though. I don't use flashes and pocket-wizards very often, but nice to know that they do work good with the M.

[viramati]

Have read the thread with interest as I have the SF24D and am thinking of going for the SF58 but am worried by it's size. Now people seem to be saying (and maybe I have missed the answer) that a metz flash with the right module (3502 i believe) will also so work in TTL/GNC mode on the the M9 but will you might not be able to get some of the other ptions that you can with the SF58. Anyway was just wondering if there is a definitive answer to all of this.

Thanks

[wlaidlaw]

Have read the thread with interest as I have the SF24D and am thinking of going for the SF58 but am worried by it's size. Now people seem to be saying (and maybe I have missed the answer) that a metz flash with the right module (3502 i believe) will also so work in TTL/GNC mode on the the M9 but will you might not be able to get some of the other ptions that you can with the SF58. Anyway was just wondering if there is a definitive answer to all of this.

Thanks

 

David,

 

When I first got an M8, I bought a 54MZ-5i and SCA 3502 M5. It just did not work very well or consistently. I had a lengthy conversation with Metz at Photokina afterwards and demonstrated its failings. Finally they said "you are right - it does not work very well but we are not planning a firmware upgrade to the SCA unit, so we will arrange a full refund for you." I then bought another SF24, as I had sold my earlier one with my Digilux 2. Metz's website still shows it as giving full TTL functionality other than exposure correction. That was certainly not my experience.

 

I now have an SF58 as well as the SF24. The 58 still struggles a bit on mixed lighting fill in, where you often need to adjust the exposure up or down 1/2 a stop but generally, it is pretty accurate. The zoom head works well and even with wide angles, scene lighting is very even. The user interface is quite complicated and takes a fair bit of learning and remembering. I am not sure I would have designed the interface like they have. The interface for my older Metz 40MZ-2 has a much more informative screen and more instinctive ergonomics. They (Metz and Leica) have tried to make too few buttons do too many different things, which means you have to remember all the different modes the buttons can access.

 

My SF58 is a very early one and it does have one fault. If you tighten up the lock ring on the shoe to the point where the flash is totally secure on either my M8, M9 on on the Nikon SC-28 cord for off camera use, it can lose communications with the camera. A number of folks with early 58's mentioned this. I don't know if this has been cured but, as there has not been a lot of whinging, I am guessing it has.

 

Wilson

[viramati]

Thanks Wilson for you informative reply

[EJohnE]

I have R8, R3, 5D-II, E-1, E-330 cameras; Flashes are Nissin Di866 (for Canon) plus SF20.

Also older high voltage flashes used with Wein SafeSync.

 

I worry about the small contacts on each of the modernish bodies/flashes.

Do or can they do something drastic to the electronics of cameras or flashes when used on non-dedicated bodies. Just in case, I use the SafeSync or the pc cables from the x contacts , or both, as the SafeSync has its own pc cord contact. From this thread, it seems that others use foreign flashes with impunity.

 

Am I over-cautious?

 

John.

[lars_bergquist]

Lars

 

You said "I will not put a SF58 in the flash shoe of the M9, or any M". May I ask why?

 

The weight of it makes me nervous – the mechanical stress must be considerable. M cameras are indeed built out of metal, but they are not solid brass! Handling is extremely awkward too.

 

You also said "the little 24 is... perfectly sufficient ... for indoor bounce flash in many situations" How do you bounce this flash without an articulated flash head? I presume off-camera, manually aiming at the ceiling.

 

I connect the flash to the camera with a Nikon SC17 or a Nissin SC001 cable so that I have full TTL. With the flash in the left hand, I just aim it at the surface I want to bounce from.

 

The old man from the Age of Flash Powder