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exile

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  1. I'm sure it will set new standards in this focal length. However I was never comfortable with 75mm focal length. To those who do take the plunge, good luck and enjoy!
  2. The second lens I pack after a "normal" is always a 21mm. Just love the focal length. Hence 2 lens kit is 21/3.4 SEM + 50/1.4 ASPH 3 lens kit (much preferred) is 21/3.4SEM + 35/1.4ASPH + 90/2.8 elmarit-M. For many years my travel kit was 21, 40, 90. I'm comfortable with the spacing and with the use of each focal length individually. This is key.
  3. I used my rokkor 40 sooo much on my M9 for many years. These days I have an M10 and the 35mm frame lines seem to be much closer to genuine 35mm coverage than 40mm coverage, so I'm finding the 40 much harder to use on the M10 (I did the filed flange mod'). I suppose I just have to re-learn the new lens+viewfinder combination to get my framing more accurate on the M10, but it's frustrating me at the moment.
  4. Very sorry to hear about the camera Spikemoseley, but also wanted to congratulate you on the best thread title I've seen in 10 yrs of membership on this forum. Good luck with the fix.
  5. 23 - 3 19 - 2 16 - 1 Some really nice captures among the rest also. Thanks everyone for posting them.
  6. I've used the 21/2.8 ZM for about a decade now. Very flare resistant. F/2.8 is useful indoors. Very nice for landscapes f/8 to f/11. I never liked the "speed-bump" focus tab so within the first year of ownership I glued a 35 summicron finger tab over the top of it. Was sorry to do such a hack on a good lens but it has transformed the focusing experience so no regrets. Based purely on comparison to my other glass (although other focal lengths) I expect the Aspherical Leicas would be an improvement in terms of ultimate resolution and micro contrast. Having said that, the resolution and Zeiss coatings of the ZM are an upgrade on the Voigtlanders I've had and sold in the past (35/1.2 and 75/2.4). To summarize, the ZM21 has performed well enough over 10 years that I've always prioritized upgrading other focal lengths into current Leica offerings. However, I've never been 100% happy with the microcontrast and resolution compared to 35 Lux ASPH, 50 Lux ASPH, 90 elmarit-M, 40 rokkor. Having very slowly and patiently upgraded my 2 other key focal lengths, I'm now finally considering swapping it out for a Leica 21 SE or more preferably the wider 18 SE, but the complicated use of filters steers me away from the latter. Good luck with the choice.
  7. Beautiful. I miss it too.
  8. I've shot from zodiacs at full throttle, sedate ferries, 4-person aeroplanes, helicopters, cars and bicycles. In each case my images had interesting content but were not technically immaculate compared to what I know is achievable with the setup. In my part of the world, shutter speed in the thousandths of a second are often only achieved in harsh contrasty midday light or by bumping up the ISO, which as good as the M10 is, still degraded image quality. Stable sooting from boats is not a new problem and I agree there are no easy solutions; see this very interesting and informative thread from artists with the highest possible demands who are actively seeking stabilization solutions: http://www.reduser.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-6363.html
  9. My advice to the OP is this: 1) if you are a keen amateur, buy whatever makes you happiest. Everyone here is in full agreement that both are truely excellent lenses. Most people have an opinion as to which may be better suited for certain circumstances but your own is the only one that matters when you are investing this much money. 2) if you sell images, you can think of the APO 'cron as approaching medium format standards of resolution. That is to say you will likely only achieve meaningful image improvement over the cheaper 50lux ASPH by mounting on a tripod and/or using flash AND employing flawless technique and your images are sold for display at very large print sizes. In other words, you should be employing techniques used by lens testers to demonstrate the marginal gains we are talking about here. 3) if you frequently shoot hand-held, do not control or modify the light (including strong contra jour) and want the ability to isolate subjects at slightly longer distances, you will benefit from the extra stop and (supposed) reduced lens flare of the 50lux. Good luck with the choice. Try before you buy. Re-read (1) above.
  10. Pretty much anything in Leica screw mount (ltm) shot wide open will give you one version or other of that older arty look. I have a Jupiter 3 (50mm f1.5) that is very cute and works fine with an ltm to M mount adapter. I think there are 35mm sonnar designs that will give you the low contrast gentle rendering wide open and still sharpen up nicely when stopped down a little if you need some more extra definition for landscape or street photography. You can pick these up very cheaply. The down side of these old lens designs and single coated / uncoated glass is their acute susceptibility to flare. However they are usually smaller and lighter than modern designs so make a great second lens for your pocket.
  11. Going to a party in a park this weekend with a scruffy old Billingham small: M10 + 50 lux ASPH SF 24D flash Spare battery iPhone Hummingbird hammock + suspension straps. Hip flask
  12. Yup. Mine is the CLE. Love it from f/2.8 onwards.
  13. I have a Silver lux ASPH on a silver M10. It's impossible not to notice the heft when you first pick it up it, but in actual use I honestly don't notice the weight. If I'm planning on going for a hike and want to go lightweight I use a 40/2
  14. I think you misunderstood LCT. The high ISO allowed me to start playing out of pure curiosity with a 10 stop ND filter with lenses wide open within flash sync shutter speeds. I only have a 10 stop ND that I bought for long exposure work. My other filter is a polarizer that only gives 2 stops - not sufficient to bring the shutter speed down enough. I was trying to convey the irony of how the greater flexibility of usable ISO range allowed me to explore exposure supplemented with artificial light. The link in my mind between flash and number of lenses is space / weight / volume. You have a spare pocket - who puts a flash in it and who puts a second lens in it? I have decided to put a flash in the spare pocket for at least the course of this summer, whereas in the past it would always have been a second lens. I started this thread to see if anyone else did the same. Dosen't really look like it.
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