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Moose Skull in Boreal Forest


mark_a_h

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This is one of the photos that I took on a canoe trip into Wabakimi in Northern Ontario Canada last week. It was the first time I've taken my D2 out into the wilderness and I am incredibly pleased with the quality of the images. They have an eye-popping clarity to them. I am also pleased to say the camera held up to very rough treatment and weather conditions. I was very careful to keep Deet (insect repellent) off all camera surfaces.

 

I like this photo in particular because of how integrated the skull is with its environment. To see more photos of my canoe trip, vist this direct link:

 

http://web.mac.com/mah9/iWeb/Photography/Wabakimi.html

 

I can spot problems with exposure and focus in many of the photos. I wish I had the time to slow down and be more careful with my settings but the volunteer mission I was on was the first priority and photography second. I wish I had brought a mini tripod. Does anyone know if the Leica mini Tripod 14100 with 14110 1/4" ballhead fits the D2 thread because I'd like to buy one for future canoe trips.

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I really enjoyed your photography. I have a D2 and my wife and I have been canoeing together since the late 60s. We have had our canoe strapped to the floats of various 'otters' & 'twin otters'......and dropped into Woodland Caribou Provincial Park....Where is Wabakimi in relation to Woodland Caribou ?

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Hi Albert. Wabakimi is 350 km directly east of Woodland Caribou. It's approximately 3 times larger as well. It's very remote and hardly travelled. If you go, you can't choose a better pilot than Don Elliot of Mattice Lake Outfitters. He has a Beaver and now, a new turbocharged Otter.

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Nice "Canadiana" collection.. many of the shots need to have the "grey digital film" stripped off of the images. This is very easy to do in Photosshop. Its initially because the camera is reading the wrong white and black points... this also can be avoided if you set your own "custom white-balance" which I believe can be done on the D2..also I would suggest you shoot RAW to futher..plunb or mine the true colour depth.

 

Thanks for sharing

 

Cheers, JRM

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many of the shots need to have the "grey digital film" stripped off of the images. This is very easy to do in Photoshop. Its initially because the camera is reading the wrong white and black points.

 

Thanks, I have Photoshop and am eager to improve. I used the eyedropper tools in "levels" to sample the tones, black, grey and white. Is this the way to do it?

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Mark there are of course a 1001 ways of doing it. The essential gist of this is to:

1) recognize when the camera is doing this.

2) keep a good visual memory yourself of what the "true colours" were and aim for that, many instances there are subtlties that Photoshop will "ditch"..you are the "Master editor".

3) using RAW file format, I know its not as "speedy" as a simple jpeg..but you will arrive at some incredibley beautiful colours pallettes..and if you travel around the Canadian shield in the fall..well you want to get the max. The D2..... as well as the LC1 ..properly handled can produce some outstanding images.

 

 

I recommend Photoshop CS2..if you already have PS Elements... all you need to pay for is the "upgrade" about $230 Canadian..well worth the money.

 

If your really "hooked" then may I recommend the free tutorials form Adobe and for real in depth learning..

http://www.lynda.com

they have a whole range of instructional cdrom videos which you can buy or for $25 US a month "view" them from their extensive online library.

 

Cheers, JRM

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Very good image. (Have I seen this in B&W as well?)

 

I recommend the photoshop.tv podcast videos, freely available for free via iTunes (easy) or via their website (not quite so easy)

 

Superbly useful and helpful blokes (especially the Canadian ;) ) who produce a half hour programme every week.

 

They had a great tip in Episode 17 (IIRC) as to how to sort out your colour balances using Threshold layers. Takes about 2 minutes per image to do when you get used to doing it and it really is the best method I have found. It just helps you find the "real" black, white and grey spots, not necessarily where you think they are.

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I recommend Photoshop CS2..if you already have PS Elements... all you need to pay for is the "upgrade" about $230 Canadian..well worth the money.

 

I didn't know that Adobe sold an upgrade from Elements to full blown PS. That could have saved me a trouser-load of cash if I'd known... :)

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on ebuh they also sell an old full PS version (ie PS6) for a few bucks. This together with an official CS or CS2 upgrade creates a grandtotal of around 350-380euros. Often already offered as complete packs. As far as I understand (I am NOT a lawyer) these offers are legal...

 

Klaus

 

PS: sorry for being a little bit off topic now

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OK, I purchased episode 17 of photoshop tv. The file will not play whatever I do... It's crap. I am running Photoshop CS. I have the tools to process images. I shoot jpegs on my trip due to time constraints, RAW if there was bad lighting AND I had the time.

 

Question: did I use the eye droppers in levels correctly on that jpeg of the guy at the lake?

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OK, I purchased episode 17 of photoshop tv. The file will not play whatever I do... It's crap. I am running Photoshop CS. I have the tools to process images. I shoot jpegs on my trip due to time constraints, RAW if there was bad lighting AND I had the time.

 

Question: did I use the eye droppers in levels correctly on that jpeg of the guy at the lake?

 

Yes, provided the points you chose were the white-est, black-est and grey-est points on the image. The tip I pointed you to means that you could establish exactly where they are.

 

Do you have QuickTime installed?

 

(Edit: The videos USED to be free - I have to admit that I haven't watched one for a couple of weeks. Shame. Sorry if I misled you)

 

But, they're not crap :cool:

 

Maybe I could transcribe the tip and post it here?

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Sorry Andy, didn't mean to say the content was crap, just the file I bought and can't play (yes, I'm on a new iMac with Quicktime 7.1).

 

If you could give an overview of how to find the true black/white/grey points, that would be really helpful. (I'll save a copy of your method on my HD.) I want to review all the shots I posted on my site and re-process the ones the show the "grey film".

 

Actually, I'm pretty pleased with the D2 jpegs.

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No problem!

 

:)

 

Odd that you can't play it then. It's a real pity that they have gone down the subscription mode - I learned a lot from them, but $100 a year is quite steep, I reckon, particularly since they had started taking some advertising from big players AND were sponsored by others.

 

I will do a work through when I am at home over the weekend and post it here.

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If you could give an overview of how to find the true black/white/grey points, that would be really helpful.

 

Mark,

 

In CS the info window next to the histogram shows you the RGB values (000=black, 256,256,256 = white, 128,128,128=gray). If you move the pipette across the picture it shows you the RGB values under the pipette. If you close to one of the above values (not a 100% match necessary, but close +- 5% or so) you found the reference...

 

klaus

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