Brent1965 Posted November 1, 2009 Share #1 Posted November 1, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, this film for me (when using VCII meter on Leica iiiG, 2.8 Elmar) is almost too contrasty, it's almost all black or white & little detail in between. How do I get more greys in the middle? I have heard some use this at 200ASA with better results - recommendations? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 1, 2009 Posted November 1, 2009 Hi Brent1965, Take a look here Kodak BW400CN - how do I tame this abit.. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
aesop Posted November 1, 2009 Share #2 Posted November 1, 2009 Hi, this film for me (when using VCII meter on Leica iiiG, 2.8 Elmar) is almost too contrasty, it's almost all black or white & little detail in between. How do I get more greys in the middle? I have heard some use this at 200ASA with better results - recommendations? ...quick exploratory question - are you 100% certain that the problem(s), if any, are from you and not your processor? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted November 1, 2009 Share #3 Posted November 1, 2009 ...quick exploratory question - are you 100% certain that the problem(s), if any, are from you and not your processor? ...and... Under what lighting conditions are you shooting? Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent1965 Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share #4 Posted November 2, 2009 Different processors each time, usually full sunlight, or just simply bright sunny weather most of the time, it's like the black are ink black...and the whites are very white - with less going in the middle ground - if that makes sense.. like a red filter on all the time. Sometimes it'd be nice to not have the red filter... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted November 2, 2009 Share #5 Posted November 2, 2009 I get that with C41 b&w films too. That's why I stick to traditional B&W film. You are in complete control and you can expose and process exactly as you want. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
masjah Posted November 2, 2009 Share #6 Posted November 2, 2009 Hi, this film for me (when using VCII meter on Leica iiiG, 2.8 Elmar) is almost too contrasty, it's almost all black or white & little detail in between. How do I get more greys in the middle? I have heard some use this at 200ASA with better results - recommendations? I would definitely have a go with it at 320 and 200 (or equivalently take the same shot, ovewrexposing by one half and by one stop) and see if you like the grey scale any better. Of course, the development of the film cannot be changed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
haris Posted November 2, 2009 Share #7 Posted November 2, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) It is processing issue I would tell. Mine experience is that film is low contrast film, that is I got best results in high contrast lightning or with flash. Using that film in low contrast lightning (overcast day) ot tungsten lighting I don't got enough contrast on film. So, if you use it under tungsten or low contrast lightning set lightmeter at ISO 200, if you use it under flash or high contrast lightning, you can use it at ISO 400 or even ISO 800. Atleast, that is mine experience with C400N, spend roll or two to experiment and discover what is best for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandokan Posted November 3, 2009 Share #8 Posted November 3, 2009 Icame across this interesting comparison of films on RFF: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77250 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marke Posted November 3, 2009 Share #9 Posted November 3, 2009 I agree with Harris. I almost always shoot this film at 200, but in cases of high contrast lighting, I'll go up to 400. I've never tried it at 800. It is processing issue I would tell. Mine experience is that film is low contrast film, that is I got best results in high contrast lightning or with flash. Using that film in low contrast lightning (overcast day) ot tungsten lighting I don't got enough contrast on film. So, if you use it under tungsten or low contrast lightning set lightmeter at ISO 200, if you use it under flash or high contrast lightning, you can use it at ISO 400 or even ISO 800. Atleast, that is mine experience with C400N, spend roll or two to experiment and discover what is best for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
photophile Posted November 3, 2009 Share #10 Posted November 3, 2009 I used it for several shots now listed in the photo forum - 2 in people, one in travel/landscale. I shoot at 400. Process in a pro lab. PP in LR2.5 or now, 3. I find it gives me fabulous tonal gradation - but I am used to tri-x. I use my palm as a meter surface - trying to avoid highlight/shadow variation when posible. When it all comes together, this can be a fantastic film emulsion. Much less contrast to tame than ilford btw. Good luck. Keep trying. Coos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StS Posted November 3, 2009 Share #11 Posted November 3, 2009 Sorry for adding more questions - are you scanning, use a professional lab or your own enlarger? I assume you have excluded all other possibilities? Normally, my recommendation would be to try your workflow on a very forgiving film. I'm hesitant to say, my recommendation would be BW400CN - I typically expose it at 320 ASA, since there will be still structure even in strongly overexposed parts. In case you are scanning, it might simply show the limitations of the scanner. I just had some scans done on my lab's Imacon and understand now, why this beast costs very well more than an order of magnitude more than my humble home scanner. In case you use your own enlarger, you are most probably aware of being able to choose a different (softer) grade photographic paper? As long there is structure in the dark and light parts, should always be possible to get a decent print on one's own enlarger, in my experience. Another way would be to change to another film, however, my concern is, if BW400 is an issue, other films should be even more. If everything fails, there is still the brute force scientific way... Sorry, confused... Stefan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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