Coding Milich modified Leica Bayonets

[eyejockey]

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A few weeks ago I bought a Milich LTM8 adapter to go with my new CV 28mm 1.9 Ultron from Cameraquest. I was unable to code this lens successfully (using black Walgreen nail polish) on the brass mount until I filled in the white "holes" as well as the black. Then voila !! up came the 28mm under info on the M8. So I carefully removed the Leica bayonets from my 21 aspheric 2.8 and my 35mm aspheric 1.4 and sent them to Milich for milling the coding "holes". They were returned in just over a week beautifully finished and this time I used black and white flat finish acrylic paint from a model hobby shop with a very fine modeller's paint brush which made for a much easier and neater application of the black and white dot codes. At first nothing came up and also the frame lines were all wrong ??? I had stupidly replaced the bayonet mounts on the wrong lenses. After switching them back and recoding (removing the original paint coding with thinner was quite easy) up came the correct frame lines and 21mm and 35mm data under the info menu. Total cost of coding the two Leica lenses was $ 50.00 plus $10.00 for the paint and brushes plus p&p. Delay 10 days. Leica costs for coding $250.00 plus expensive insurance as both lenses have to be sent and a delay of possibly many weeks. Sure, the Leica lens codings will be neater, more "professional", but nobody will ever see the difference in the photographs. Hope this is helpful to others. Now I'm going to send in my 50mm and 75mm bayonets.

 

Stephen Goldblatt

[wlaidlaw]

Stephen,

 

That is great news. I will have my Biogon 21 and 35, Elmarit-M 90 and Voigtlander 35/1.2 bayonets, mostly currently "Sharpie" coded, to send to John. I have one spare Zeiss 35 bayonet, so I will not use the loss of my Biogon 35. I just hope John does not get as overloaded as Solms!

 

Wilson

[jlancasterd]

.... this time I used black and white flat finish acrylic paint from a model hobby shop with a very fine modeller's paint brush which made for a much easier and neater application of the black and white dot codes. ....

Stephen Goldblatt

 

Here in UK I find that the matt black and matt white Humbrol enamel paints, sold in 14ml tins by shops selling model aircraft kits, etc, are ideal for coding Milich adapters - but I would recommend also buying a bottle of Humbrol enamel thinners (it comes in 28ml bottles), to clean your brushes after you have finished - turps or white spirit probably won't work very well with this paint.

[papimuzo]

So I carefully removed the Leica bayonets from my 21 aspheric 2.8 and my 35mm aspheric 1.4 and sent them to Milich for milling the coding "holes". [..........]

Hope this is helpful to others. Now I'm going to send in my 50mm and 75mm bayonets.

 

Stephen Goldblatt

 

I too would like to send to John the Leica bayonet from my Summilux 50** which Leica doesn't want to code (because the 4 screws are placed around the circonference instead of coaxial on the bayonet as the majority of lenses). I wonder if extracting this bayonet will not damage the optics of the lens?

Any comments, advise welcome.

Thanks.

** Summinlux 1.4/50 Germany made # type 11114 1966-1995

[billh]

Stephen,

 

Is the focus accuracy of a lens dependent on the exact placement of the mount? I ask because I wonder if there is an issue of focus accuracy if we remove and then reattach the mount? The time span you experienced certainly seems preferable. The time and hassle is what has prevented me from sending in my lenses to leica.

 

Thanks,

 

Bill

[scho]

John Milich machined the mounts from my Zeiss 35 Biogon and CV 25p. I'm very pleased with the work John did and the fast turn around. Both lenses focus perfectly and after coding are working very well with UV/IR cut filters.

[eyejockey]

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Stephen,

 

Is the focus accuracy of a lens dependent on the exact placement of the mount? I ask because I wonder if there is an issue of focus accuracy if we remove and then reattach the mount? The time span you experienced certainly seems preferable. The time and hassle is what has prevented me from sending in my lenses to leica.

 

Thanks,

 

Bill

Bill,

 

Each bayonet mount is specific to the lens it comes from as I found out when I confused one mount with another and had to redo my coding. However the mounts can not be reattached in anything but the correct position for its own lens as the screwsholes will only align in one position and no other. Focus of my lenses has not changed. One caveat is that you may need to relubricate the metal surface of the lens onto which the bayonet mount sits as mine dried out over the ten days while the bayonet mounts were away being milled in Brooklyn. I used just two drops of WD40 on a cotton bud to place a tiny smear on the metal surface. This seems to be quite enough,

Stephen

[papimuzo]

Bill,

 

Each bayonet mount is specific to the lens it comes from as I found out when I confused one mount with another and had to redo my coding. However the mounts can not be reattached in anything but the correct position for its own lens as the screwsholes will only align in one position and no other. Focus of my lenses has not changed. [.......................]

Stephen

 

Thanks Stephen, at least gives some hope:rolleyes: if one time I dare to take my screwdriver:eek:

All the best.

Marcel

[wlaidlaw]

May I pass on a very useful tip which Jaap told me. Most bayonet screws have a thread locking compound on them. In theory you can release this by applying a soldering iron to heat them but this is both nerve racking and not very effective. If you do not release the thread-locking compound, you risk shearing the tiny screws or chewing up the slot. The easy way is to put a TINY drop of acetone on each screw (a cotton bud is a good way to apply the acetone - don't get any on painted parts or it will lift the paint), leave about 5 minutes and they then come out reasonably easily. You should buy low strength thread locking compound to replace the screws. If you can source them, it is best to use new screws.

 

Wilson

[papimuzo]

Thanks Wilson for sharing. I ll add this when....

Marcel

[JimP]

I am considering buying a new 35mm f/2 Biogon. Does Zeiss implement the coding, or will I need to do this myself... i.e. thru John Milich?

Thanks in advance.

[stunsworth]

Hi Jim, welcome.

 

You'll need to do it yourself.

[rwchisholm]

I just received 2 of John's adapters in the mail, one for my CV 35 Ultron and one for my CV 28 Ultron. I coded both using only black nail polish and leaving the other wells for the white polish simply empty. Worked fine. --Rob

[sean_reid]

I just received 2 of John's adapters in the mail, one for my CV 35 Ultron and one for my CV 28 Ultron. I coded both using only black nail polish and leaving the other wells for the white polish simply empty. Worked fine. --Rob

 

Sometimes that works and sometimes it doesn't. I paint them all in just to be sure.

 

Cheers,

[ttriolo]

May I pass on a very useful tip which Jaap told me. Most bayonet screws have a thread locking compound on them. In theory you can release this by applying a soldering iron to heat them but this is both nerve racking and not very effective. If you do not release the thread-locking compound, you risk shearing the tiny screws or chewing up the slot. The easy way is to put a TINY drop of acetone on each screw (a cotton bud is a good way to apply the acetone - don't get any on painted parts or it will lift the paint), leave about 5 minutes and they then come out reasonably easily. You should buy low strength thread locking compound to replace the screws. If you can source them, it is best to use new screws.

 

Wilson

 

It also helps if you invest in a good set of precision mini screwdrivers, the kind that jewelers and watch repairmen use. Bergeon makes some good ones. They will help avoid the stripping the heads and make the removal and install of the mounts much easier.

[RobertW]

Yes I've had jm also code my CV 21, ZM Biogon 28 & 35.

I bought his LTM8 mounts for the CV 15 and also for my new Rollei 80mm f/2.8, which are in the mail.

He's done a great job.

The only Leica lens I own is the affordable 50 Cron.

 

Best

Robert

[jlm]

for the record, I am not actually "coding" anything. I simply machine recesses in the flanges

[Guest Bernd Banken]

for the record, I am not actually "coding" anything. I simply machine recesses in the flanges

 

;)

[sean_reid]

It's true though, John isn't coding any lenses or adapters for other photographers. His work makes it easier for photographers to code lenses themselves but that's not the same thing, strictly speaking.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

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