Focusing with the Noctilux

[salim]

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Ok I dont have a nocti. But I was wondering, the Nocti is meant for extreme dark situation and ofcourse for its magic bokeh. But mainly, people would choose it over the summilux because its ability under very low light condition.

 

The below picture was taken yesterday while having a dinner with the wife. Trust me, I had great difficulties in focusing, after three shots I managed and still I beleive its a bit out of focus, as the place was very low light and I just couldnt see clearly, let along focusing. The shot was taken at 1.4 with 2500 ISO at 1/15 shutter, THAT HOW DARK IT WAS

 

My question to you all, how on EARTH, in pitch darkness can you focus?, you can hardly see the square thingi, let alone aligning your subjects in dark, doesn't it defies the whole purpose of having it?.

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[mardag]

Ok I dont have a nocti. But I was wondering, the Nocti is meant for extreme dark situation and ofcourse for its magic bokeh. But mainly, people would choose it over the summilux because its ability under very low light condition.

 

The below picture was taken yesterday while having a dinner with the wife. Trust me, I had great difficulties in focusing, after three shots I managed and still I beleive its a bit out of focus, as the place was very low light and I just couldnt see clearly, let along focusing. The shot was taken at 1.4 with 2500 ISO at 1/15 shutter, THAT HOW DARK IT WAS

 

My question to you all, how on EARTH, in pitch darkness can you focus?, you can hardly see the square thingi, let alone aligning your subjects in dark, doesn't it defies the whole purpose of having it?.

 

A 1.25x or a 1.4x helps a lot when focusing. I use the 1.25. Then I don´t think the noctilux is only meant for extreme darkness instead the use of selective focus. Here´s some wedding shoots with the lens(second last shot was under quite dark conditions):

 

http://dagnellfoto.se/lang/en/2011/09/leica-m9-noctilux-m-50mm-f0-95-asph-destination-wedding-photographer/

[businessasusual]

I also had LeicaGoodies shade with my Noct 1.0 - and it really worked.

[salim]

Mardag,

 

Whats the 1.25x, is it some sort of magnifier? beautiful photos btw

[mardag]

Mardag,

 

Whats the 1.25x, is it some sort of magnifier? beautiful photos btw

 

Thanks:), sorry I thought I wrote magnifier here´s a link:

Leica Viewfinder Magnifier 1.25x for M Cameras 12004 B&H Photo

With the 1.25x it´s still possible to see the 50mm framelines.

 

When shooting in dark conditions (in my opinion) it´s better to aim for little bit higher ISO than one think. 1/15-40 is always problematic if you or the subject moves the slightest. Of course in your picture you´ve passed the maximum iso(1250) that I would use with this camera. And at 1/15 I´m not surprised that your picture isn´t super sharp. With the noct in this case you would´ve gotten a slightly faster shutterspeed.

[stunsworth]

It's a very difficult lens to focus wide open and close. Even with a magnifier I found it hit and miss, which in the end was the reason I sold mine.

[a.noctilux]

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Salim, Noctilux is very difficult to use full open from 1m to 2m in near darkness.

 

You may not gain in "good pictures" from Summilux to Noctilux.

 

In your photo, with Nocti you could use 1/30 s at f:1 (or 0.95!) but the picture could be worse (miss focus with less margin even with magnifier).

 

I use more often my Summilux 50 than my Noctilux f:1 for every day's picture.

Maybe because full open Summilux have more contrast than my f:1 Noctilux.

The long throw of focus with small/narrow grip on focus ring may not help in hurry.

 

Arnaud

[jaapv]

The magnifier loses contrast and brightness. I doubt it will aid focussing in low light, rather the opposite.

[salim]

Funny things is, how can anyone justifies the 10K tag on the nocti despite its numerous issues. I just dont understand.

[bpalme]

Funny things is, how can anyone justifies the 10K tag on the nocti despite its numerous issues. I just dont understand.

My observation is it's more of a specialized tool. Mostly used for it's shallow DOF. ..maybe best used at a certain distance wide open. Closer up photos can be spectacular if focus is nailed but very tricky.. so seems to be best used several feet away from the subject to get more "keepers". If I was you I would practice as much as you can with it. I think once you get to know a lens like that really well you may learn to love it.

Disclaimer: I've never used one but did own a Nokton 1.1

[jaapv]

Funny things is, how can anyone justifies the 10K tag on the nocti despite its numerous issues. I just dont understand.

It is a specialist tool and requires dedicated skills.. that is not the same as issues.

[someonenameddavid]

A 1.25x or a 1.4x helps a lot when focusing. I use the 1.25. Then I don´t think the noctilux is only meant for extreme darkness instead the use of selective focus. Here´s some wedding shoots with the lens(second last shot was under quite dark conditions):

 

LEICA M9 NOCTILUX-M 50mm F/0.95 ASPH – DESTINATION WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHER

 

For a black cat in a coal cellar in available darkness hand held at ISO 25 you need a diana.

Though it might be fun and not too difficult to shine a laser pointer in the eyepiece of the range finder and then "work backwards" to coincide the two dots on the subject. The speed graphics used to have a built-in lightbulb specifically for that purpose

 

David

[mardag]

Funny things is, how can anyone justifies the 10K tag on the nocti despite its numerous issues. I just dont understand.

 

It´s numerous issues?? I think actually it´s quite easy to use. Spectacular performance stopped down(even better than the summilux according to Loyd Chambers). Very good performance wide open. It´s 1m minimum focusing distance is one thing but that´s about it. If you read on Otto Schultes blog he think that the noctilux(0.95) is as easy to focus as the summilux(I´ve never tried a summilux).

[wda]

Salim, your picture may not be perfect, but I think it is a highly commendable result given the conditions. Focusing, at close range, is tricky in the best of light. There is always an element of 'hit or miss' depending on three factors:

 

* Subject movement;

* Camera shake;

* Focusing accuracy. (Including lens calibration)

 

It is easy to blame yourself, or the camera/lens, but occasionally that is not the explanation. All three factors have a bearing on the result which is why I tend to shoot a short burst. That at least it minimizes the effect of first and second factors.

[lars_bergquist]

I have too agree with Jaap about the magnifiers. I have tried them with various lenses thought to be difficult to focus, such as the 135mm Apo-Telyt, but he is right: They degrade finder contrast, and I found the Apo-Telyt much easier to focus without it than with it.

 

I have only briefly test-flown the 0.95 Nocti, but while you cannot of course slap-bang focus it like a wide angle lens at 5.6, I did not experience much difficulty in focusing it wide open, even at quite short distances. The size, weight and cost of the lens made me decide to stay with my Summilux ASPH however. That lens takes me down to the limit of my dark-focusing ability even with moderate ISOs around 800, unless there is a bright spot, like a spectacle frame (!) that I can focus on.

 

The old man from the Age of 3.5

[pico]

[...]Though it might be fun and not too difficult to shine a laser pointer in the eyepiece of the range finder and then "work backwards" to coincide the two dots on the subject. The speed graphics used to have a built-in lightbulb specifically for that purpose

 

David

 

You are speaking of the Kalart Focuspot. I have some. They do no shine through the rear eyepiece, but from a separate port on top by the eyepiece, pointing toward the opposite (bottom) end. They rather disappeared when Linhof stopped supplying rangefinders with the port (which I also have).

 

You have aroused my interest in trying it your way. BTW, a laser pointer used in the same way does not work because it passes through the mirror. But mounting one on the flash shoe to focus upon ... would the source have to be at the focal plane?

[salim]

Ok, my mistakes, not Issues. But come on. Here how I list it

 

Advantages:

- One extra Stop for low light condition (which by the way, ITS RARELY THE CASE, with my Lux I shoot 99.9% of the time. But never the less, its an advantage)

 

- The BOKEH is magic. But than again, this depends on the taste. Some argue the 50 lux bokeh is better

 

Disadvantage:

 

- Heavy, defies the whole purpose of having a compact camera does it

- Very difficult to focus and obtain sharp results at wide open

- VERY expensive (three times as much of the Lux 50)

 

Now you all tell me, am I missing something here??? Dont get me wrong, this what I do when I normally considering buying something, same process I went through before deciding buying my first M9.

[pop]

You're missing: half the exposure time in light which is fairly but not extremely low. Also: narrower depth of field.

[peter_n]

It's tough to be accurate in low light especially when your subject is very close, it is a challenge for me and I have 20/20 vision in my taking eye too!

 

What I do is set the lens at widest aperture and closest focus then move the camera ever so slightly back & forth. This enables you to see the subject's eye going in and out of focus without turning the lens at all, and gives you a slightly better grip on the camera as well.

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Hallo,

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[bpalme]

Another thing to check into is if the camera lens are perfectly calibrated together.