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12585 vs 12585H


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Now, I am not a collector, but I do have two 12585 lens hoods. Lucky me.

 

One of them is an12585H. But, they look identical.

 

They are engraved exactly the same, including the 1:2/35 engraving and they both unscrew to take a Series 7 filter, like the 12504 that I use on my 35 ASPH does.

 

I have read that the only difference is the thickness of the metal used in the hood itself, but to be honest, I can't see any difference.

 

Thanks!

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..... they both unscrew to take a Series 7 filter, like the 12504 that I use on my 35 ASPH does......

Are you sure that they are designed to unscrew and that they actually do take a Series 7 filter Andy? I've had several 12585s over the years but cannot remember them ever unscrewing (I may still have one - I'll check it).

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Talking about lens-hoods and our Leica-obsession with compact gear:

the lens-hood for the Pentax 40mm pan-cake

Pentax MH-RC Lens Hood for DA 40mm f/2.8 Lens 38742 B&H Photo

gave me an idea:

Why not use as a lens-hood a step-down filter adaptor ring, that costs less than 10 euro/$/UKP on ebay? They do not protrude at all (and are ok at keeping fingers off the lense's front glass).

 

My question is: do they reduce flare as well as all the other shapes of lens-hoods?

I got some step-down rings fitting with their exteriour screw-in diameter into some of my lenses between 35mm and 75mm.

Subsequently I widened their interiour diameter to a 3:2 rectangular opening, after determining where this is located, after they're screwed in snug and repainted their inner margins black.

Before I stopped down to the minimum aperture value of the lens (16 or in some cases 22) at infinity and made the rectangular openings big enough to avoid any vignetting at all.

 

Now: are the multitude of lens-shade designs, which make the lens bigger (and cost quite a bit, when not included) capable of delivering more flare reduction?

 

:cool: or :eek: ?

 

Cheers,

Simon

Edited by tri
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BreakFree shouldn't hurt the paint. Be careful.

 

Nothing helped and I should repaint the flat-black, which is simple. No matter. I am happy but it would have been a dream to have Series VII for the 50mm and 35mm Summilux. So be it. :)

.

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Two approaches for stuck threads:

- place the jointed parts between two pieces of wood. Give a sharp, but not violent, tap with a hammer along the center axis of the hood. You are just trying to get the metal to "ring" and achieve some axial movement before getting rotating movement. If still difficult to turn after several attempts,

- use two rubber strap pipe wrenches to get a really good grip and apply the necessary force. Sears Craftsman sells two different sizes of these wrenches. You'll need two sets.

I don't like using penetrating oil on camera equipment; I only use it if the threads are galled or damaged, say from a set screw. These two approaches have worked very well for me.

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