Jump to content

Lens Hoods


Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi all

 

I have recently aquired a 5cm Elmar - love it by the way. Could anybody tell me whether it's worth getting a lens hood for it, ie, hoods are supposed to improve performance etc.

 

Personaly, I would rather hear from someone who actually shoots with the setup before I go ahead and purchase.

 

Any thoughts would be most appriciated.

 

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Could anybody tell me whether it's worth getting a lens hood for it? Andy

 

Dear Andy,

 

I use both the Elmar 5cm f/3.5 and f2.8. In simple terms, the older the lens the greater the need for a lens-hood.

 

With coated post-war lenses you will get acceptable results without a lens-hood, particularly if the light source is behind you, however even in that situation I have found the addition of the hood improves contrast; Also colour saturation if colour film is being used.

 

Because back or strong side lighting is my favourite, I had made a lens-hood for my Minilux as Leica Camera AG does not provide one, the argument being that modern coating is so good that an lens-hood is hardly necessary. Well the proof is in the results and even with the superbly corrected Summarit the advantage of a lens-hood is apparent.

 

Have fun.

 

Justin

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have recently aquired a 5cm Elmar. Andy

 

 

Andy,

 

What is the serial number of the lens?

 

It is engraved on the aperture control ring.

 

What film do you use behind the lens?

 

Justin

Link to post
Share on other sites

The number is 1340462, I beleive this is from 1956 - it's a Red Scale, if that makes any difference. Film used - Fuji Professional PRO160S. Andy

 

Dear Andy,

 

Assuming the lens does not need a CLA, you have what is considered the best of the 5cm Elmars. I have the same lens and a FISON lens-hood is worth having.

 

IMHO the film you are using is one of the best, however I rate it at 100 ISO for better colour and shadow detail. For what its worth I sometimes use Fuji Superia 400 at 250 with the older low contrast lenses to give the picture a bit more punch.

 

Best wishes.

 

Justin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Andy,

 

An even better hood solution for your Elmar would be an accessory code named VALOO. It fuctions as a shade, but has an arrangement whereby it attaches to the f-stop lever. When mounted correctly, your lens will not only have a proper shade, but also click-stopped aperture settings.

 

To save me taking a picture of mine, here is a link to one I quickly found on eBay:

 

Leitz VALOO 16620 Leica Diaphragm Adjusting Ring on eBay 35mm Rangefinder, Film Cameras, Cameras Photo

 

Best,

 

Jan

Link to post
Share on other sites

An even better hood solution for your Elmar would be an accessory code named VALOO. It fuctions as a shade, but has an arrangement whereby it attaches to the f-stop lever. When mounted correctly, your lens will not only have a proper shade, but also click-stopped aperture settings.

.

.

.

.

.

 

I have a spare VALOO if anyone is interested. It is in noticeably better condition than the one on eBay.

.

.

.

.

.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The VALOO (or type) hood on the ebay link is for when the Elmar is being used on an enlarger - the readings are upside-down. Is there any difference in weight between this and the one for use on a camera ?

 

Adrian,

 

The VALOO in that auction is photographed upside down. When mounted on the camera, the numbers are still well visible and it sure beats sliding your fingernail along the lens rim to change the f-stop.......

 

My VALOO weighs 60 gr (2.1 oz). It is heavier than the FISON hood but, much easier to use. Anybody who tried changing the f-stop with the FISON in place will agree.

 

There used to be an adapter code named VOOLA, which fit inside the FISON and grabbbed the f-stop arm when one turned the FISON. It is harder to find than the VALOO and when in use it is very easy to lose both the FISON and the VOOLA. The FISON cannot be fully tightened around the lens in order to provide some slack when turning the VOOLA and the whole contraption can fall off the lens quite easily.

 

Now - if you can interpret all the code names and figure out what I am actually trying to say.... my hat off to you! :D

 

Best,

 

Jan

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's shown the way up it would be on an enlarger, with the figures the right way up. On the camera they will be upside-down. It also has click stops for use in the darkroom. And it even looks like a Focotar.

 

I thought there was another specially for use on a camera but I guess they are all the same.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...